Rem 700 Bolt Operation Question

[BigDMT]

Great info. I will try to tinker with it later this week when I get back home from work. will talk to my smith about timing extraction and the trigger. thats something I have not done before. Never attempted removing a handle and silver soldering it back on for any reason.

Heard that tapping/threading and adding hex screws to the bolt handle where it mounts to the bolt body really adds some strength and reliability to the silver soldering. Though I'd think it would take away the ability to ever time the action again if something changed. what do you guys think?

 

[BoydAllen]

Keep in mind, the reasons that clones are so popular is that by the time that you pay to fix everything that can be on a Remington, you probably could have simply sold it before you started and bought a clone. There is a difference between what matters for accuracy and what makes the action smoother, in fact some of what does one, may not be the best for the other. If it extracts ok after the lugs are made to bear properly, I wouldn't worry about the bolt handle. I have never knocked one off.

 

[BigDMT]

True. I haven't either. Always kinda wondered how folks break them off from time to time...

Just thought I'd ask, never really planned on doing that mod.

For some reason a finished clone or custom action has never appealed to me. I know exactly how nice they are, Ive shot them, but I just dont feel that the gun has much sentimental value to me if Im not in there getting my hands dirty during the building process. Thats exactly why I am asking thes bolt questions here. Same reason I often buy unfinished stocks to make any modifications I want before applying my own finish and bedding job. That way if it shoots good or looks good, I feel more like I had a big part to do with that.

Kinda like when you install a new high rise intake and Holley double pumper on a V8 engine. Makes you feel like "you" made that horsepower

 

[BoydAllen]

I like that. We have become too much of a buy it, and not so much of a build it society.

 

[Dans40X]

Eliminating .050"-.060" of re-cocking the firing pin upon camming the bolt into battery will make the trigger more consistent & ensure easier bolt manipulation.
A few other simple modifications will render 2 finger bolt cycling.

Lapping &/or tapeing threads in an OEM bolt body or shroud w/ class1 threads will be a waste of time/materials.

 

[rayjay]

You can add the longer bolt knob without removing the bolt handle. The longer bolt knob is simple leverage. The longer the lever the less force needed but the travel is longer. Also the longer knob I use doesn't require you to physically grab a hold of it. It also gets it away from the stock and closer to the trigger so you hand doesn't have to move as far.

I cut down the full cock notch on all my rifles but I don't know if I really agree with this mod any more. Like anything, there are compromises. If you help the bolt lift you may be hurting the bolt closing. See first pic.

Second pic is adjusting the timing / firing pin fall. This action / trigger / bolt combo was terrible on bolt closing due to excessive firing pin fall. I think there is some recommended pin fall. .220" or something around there.

With factory actions the loose fit between the bolt and it's bore in the rec work against you and limit your gains. Instead of a nice round, close fitting bearing surface you end up bearing against a localized small area which raises the psi dramatically.

You can make it far better. I am pretty much a fanatic on having a smooth working bolt so all my stuff gets every little piece inspected and massaged. Even stuff like the tag ends of the firing pin spring. :crazy:

 

[STS]

A word of caution might be appropriate for anyone thinking of doing this modification. Dan mentions taking .050 to .060 cock on close out of the trigger hand off. The amount that needs to be removed from the cocking piece needs to be carefully measured before any grinding is done. The triggers and cocking pieces can vary quite a bit to the point where there is almost no cock on close, to as much as .070. .070 is the most I have ever seen, but most have been in the .035 to .040 range. I'm sure Dan has done more of them than I have, but I thought it important to mention that the .050 or .060 is not a cut and forget measurement. Measure and then measure again before you cut. This modification will smooth up the function of the action nicely.

 

[butchlambert]

Dan has probably done more in a week than most smiths do in a few years. HE UNDERSTANDS BOLT TIMING!!! Send your bolt to Dan and have him either tig your handle on or one of his custom handles. LISTEN TO WHAT HE SAYS!!!

 

[BigDMT]

Dan has probably done more in a week than most smiths do in a few years. HE UNDERSTANDS BOLT TIMING!!! Send your bolt to Dan and have him either tig your handle on or one of his custom handles. LISTEN TO WHAT HE SAYS!!!

I suppose I should have the action trued before sending it to Dan. Probably gonna have a "mini-16" extractor installed too. Unless he can do all that as well? I'll have to call him...

 

[broncman]

Eliminating .050"-.060" of re-cocking the firing pin upon camming the bolt into battery will make the trigger more consistent & ensure easier bolt manipulation.
A few other simple modifications will render 2 finger bolt cycling.

Lapping &/or tapeing threads in an OEM bolt body or shroud w/ class1 threads will be a waste of time/materials.

Silly question...How do you measure the amount of clock on close? I believe I understand but need clarification

 

[STS]

Eliminating .050"-.060" of re-cocking the firing pin upon camming the bolt into battery will make the trigger more consistent & ensure easier bolt manipulation.
A few other simple modifications will render 2 finger bolt cycling.

Lapping &/or tapeing threads in an OEM bolt body or shroud w/ class1 threads will be a waste of time/materials.

Silly question...How do you measure the amount of clock on close? I believe I understand but need clarification

I normally measure it with the front ring of the action in the 3 jaw in the lathe. Set up two indicators, I use a dial indicator on the center of the rear of the cocking piece and a test indicator on the rear surface of the shroud as close to the side of the cocking piece as I can get it. I have a sacrificial shroud I turned flat on the rear surface to eliminate trying to measure on the curved surface. When the cocking piece comes in contact with the trigger it will stop moving forward and both indicators can be zeroed. After the trigger makes contact, the cocking piece will not move if you are set up correctly. As the bolt is rotated into battery the shroud will move forward until the lugs are fully engaged. The amount of cock on close will read off the shroud. You shouldn't have any problem if you get set up solid and have a couple of good indicators.

 

[BigDMT]

I can see where that would make a big difference on energy needed to cycle the bolt. Great info.

 

[Dave L Kiff]

How much does it cost to have a Remington bolt reworked ? say a new handle , handle installed , pin hole bushed , sleeved , custom extractor installed and trued . I never had anyone tell me the average total cost . Thanks Dave

 

[BigDMT]

How much does it cost to have a Remington bolt reworked ? say a new handle , handle installed , pin hole bushed , sleeved , custom extractor installed and trued . I never had anyone tell me the average total cost . Thanks Dave

Funny you should comment on this thread Dave. I just called your office today and ordered a whole new "one piece" bolt from Michelle.

Having body ground to .702" (after measuring my action raceway at .705"), straight tactical handle and knob, mini 16 extractor, fluted steel pin, Lawton shroud, PPC face. Also ordered one of your single shot followers.

Figured I could do all this messing around with the old factory bolt, spend just as much money (if not more!) and still not have one as nice or as strong as your one piece design. Will probably be easier to work out the timing issues by using a precisely machined bolt to start. It's my first bolt from PT&G, can't wait to see it

 

[ratguner]

I was about to say the same thing, probably more to tweak and modify than to just purchase a new one piece unit.... which is my plan!

 

[Dave L Kiff]

I was wondering about the price because several customers told me that if they had Greg Tannel rework one or if they reworked it them selves they would have more in it than purchasing a new .699 bolt for $99 and having Dan or some one put the longer handle on , Or even getting the one piece bolt with integral handle . I figured if we had to rework bolts with all the steps in would cost about as much or a little more than our one piece fluted bolt . Remember if you get our one piece bolt , on most recivers you need to take a few thousands of the back side of the bolt lug to get the perfect cam fit . I read that the C model 700 receiver is .014 different in length to the inside lug face than the others . Thanks for the info, Thanks Dave

 

[broncman]

Dave, do your bolts have the smaller ejectors? I know the firing pin hole can be had in the smaller size, but I would like the ejector to be the smaller AR15 style type vs the huge factory remmy style.

 

[Dave L Kiff]

We have a tighter ejector hole but it still takes the XP100 type ejector . The location we put it in is what makes it work . I machine it @ 3 o'clock for the Mini 16 , Badger M16 and Sako extractors and 4:30 for Remington snap ins . My faverate extractor is the Mini 16..... Thanks Dave