HI TO ALL, IS THERE ANYBODY OUT THERE WITH NEW REM 700 LOCKUP BOLT, IF SO AS ANYBODY SEEN ANY IMPROVEMENT BY REPLACING WITH THE TUBB BOLT MAIN SPRING OR THE PIERCEISION GUN WORKS REMINGTON FIRING PIN ASSEMBLIES THAT ARE IN THE SINCLAIR CATALOG. AS THE MAIN SPRING IN THE STRANDARD BOLT SEEMS TO BE COILED UP TO MUCH AND WHEN THE FIRING PIN IS RELEASED THE SPRING COULD POSSIBLY FOUL THE BOLT BODY. OR ANY IDEAS ON IMPROVING THE NEW REM 700 LOCKUP BOLT.
new rem 700 bolt lockup
- Thread starter wayne
- Start date
Wayne,
I replaced the OEM spring on my Remington 700 based cross-course rifle with the lighter, faster Tubb version, mainly because the rifle is shot from offhand.
I believe the math on the reduced locktime and when shooting from an unsupported position, this can make a significant difference to accuracy. I know that lock-time/barrel-time makes a big difference in comparing air and smallbore shooting with centrefire so it stands to reason that less lock-time is a good thing.
It will probably also help when shooting from supported positions,i.e. benchrest) but I don't expect it would be nearly as obvious.
Swapping it out is a simple DIY job. It helps if you have a Bolt dis-assembly tool and a firing pin dis-assembly tool. The last is almost essential but the first is optional and easy enough to work around. You'll also need a 1/16" or 3/32" punch,can't remember which one) to drive the spring retaining cross-pin out of the firing pin.
Good luck.
I replaced the OEM spring on my Remington 700 based cross-course rifle with the lighter, faster Tubb version, mainly because the rifle is shot from offhand.
I believe the math on the reduced locktime and when shooting from an unsupported position, this can make a significant difference to accuracy. I know that lock-time/barrel-time makes a big difference in comparing air and smallbore shooting with centrefire so it stands to reason that less lock-time is a good thing.
It will probably also help when shooting from supported positions,i.e. benchrest) but I don't expect it would be nearly as obvious.
Swapping it out is a simple DIY job. It helps if you have a Bolt dis-assembly tool and a firing pin dis-assembly tool. The last is almost essential but the first is optional and easy enough to work around. You'll also need a 1/16" or 3/32" punch,can't remember which one) to drive the spring retaining cross-pin out of the firing pin.
Good luck.
Wayne,
Mine was the non-J lock type.
With the Tubb kit, you get the new firing pin and new spring. Change them both. The only other parts to the FP assembly are the shroud, cocking piece and cross pin. I kept those three. Some people like to change shrouds as well but I can't see a problem with the original one unless weight is an issue for you. Lighter shrouds are available.
Mine was the non-J lock type.
With the Tubb kit, you get the new firing pin and new spring. Change them both. The only other parts to the FP assembly are the shroud, cocking piece and cross pin. I kept those three. Some people like to change shrouds as well but I can't see a problem with the original one unless weight is an issue for you. Lighter shrouds are available.
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