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Rem 700 Bolt Operation Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter BigDMT
  • Start date Start date

BigDMT

As most here know, the 700 bolt lift is pretty tough for "running" groups in BR competition. In your experience, what is the best way to make the 700 bolt operate smoother?

*Also: I have heard about the BAT Roller Bearing in their own actions which make bolt cycling smooth as silk. I don't know what the roller bearing system looks like, but I was wondering if something similar could be installed on a 700 bolt by a highly skilled machinist/gunsmith?

thanks
 
And a few TIMING issues that need to be addressed w/in the bolt/handle & firing pin assy!
Once corrected,bolt cycle can be accomplished w/ 2 fingers.
 
The 700 bolt handle is a joke for bench use imo. You can either replace the whole handle or put threads on the existing handle and use a new knob like I did on the bolt below.

rem700Savageconversion.jpg
 
PhulesAu said:
A tid bit of info. http://forum.snipershide.com/snipers-hide-d-i-y/202049-improving-bolt-lift-diy.html

When I go there, I get:

Fatal error: Memcache is not installed in [path]/includes/class_datastore.php on line 185

Does this link work for anyone??
 
Catshooter,
The first time I hit the link I received the same message as you, then I hit the link again (in your post if that matters) and it worked.
Good luck
Scott
 
sbrabec said:
Catshooter,
The first time I hit the link I received the same message as you, then I hit the link again (in your post if that matters) and it worked.
Good luck
Scott

Thank you Scott... that is sooooo weird - it worked that way, but I tried it a dozen times from the original post and it didn't work. Maybe it likes being red (Being read - that's a punny) :) :)

Thanks again.
 
Boy I"m glad you clued me in on how difficult bolt lift on a M700 action is! If I'd known that 30 years back I'd had a really difficult time shooting all those rapid fire strings shooting Match Rifle in NRA competition!!
 
NRA match rifle is not BR.

Otherwise, GREAT POST !!!!

NOT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hint below -

BACK BUTTON !
 
By putting in a lighter F.P. spring.......it won't shoot as well, maybe even F.T.F. ....but the bolt operation won't be as stiff and you'll impress everyone as you run and gun. There are very few individuals on the BR circuit who can Run and Gun successfully. my point is that it is not easily mastered and most might be better served to remain pickers......speaking strictly from a short-range BR perspective.....since in these type of threads the OP never distinguishes which BR format.
 
Shooting long range 1K BR. Everyone runs at the match. The wind is so shifty you almost have to.

It shouldn't matter which format I want it for. Not trying to impress anyone. I'm only asking how to make it smoother. Wouldn't matter if I was shooting short range, 600 yd, 1K, F-Class, hunter class, or whatever. I know it will never sing like a Stiller or BAT, but I still want to make it smoother. Just my personal preference.

Thanks for all the helpful info so far :)
 
The format matters if you want to WIN. Point Blank BR has more aggregates = more bench time allowing waiting for the conditions to repeat their cycle. Also in SR BR there are lots of flags allowing one to see the conditions. Many matches are won and records set by those picking conditions in SR BR. If one is having bag upset problems, then I can see addressing the timing issue with a factory 700 bolt.....but both my 700 SR BR guns (factory bolts except for sleeving and Sako extractors) do not upset the bags anymore than my Bat or Panda actions.......key to this is 1) having the right sizer die & correctly adjusted....and 2) proper handling when cycling the bolt.
 
Your not going to keep up "RUNNING" with a right port action versus a left port if your shooting right handed
 
MTlager said:
Your not going to keep up "RUNNING" with a right port action versus a left port if your shooting right handed

True.

I suppose a fella could cut in a "left load" port. The action is actually a 722, so it's a little beefier than the 700 and the cartridge has mild recoil. Of course if the cost is too high, a person might as well have bought a custom...

Maybe I won't use it in competition. Maybe it will just be a varmint/deer/antelope rifle. We'll see. Just want to make it the best I can for whatever it ends up being used for.
 
LHSmith said:
The format matters if you want to WIN. Point Blank BR has more aggregates = more bench time allowing waiting for the conditions to repeat their cycle. Also in SR BR there are lots of flags allowing one to see the conditions. Many matches are won and records set by those picking conditions in SR BR. If one is having bag upset problems, then I can see addressing the timing issue with a factory 700 bolt.....but both my 700 SR BR guns (factory bolts except for sleeving and Sako extractors) do not upset the bags anymore than my Bat or Panda actions.......key to this is 1) having the right sizer die & correctly adjusted....and 2) proper handling when cycling the bolt.

To be honest, I really don't care about winning. I just like going for the company and for the love of the shooting sports. It's more of an attempt to test myself than anything else. I honestly don't care what others think about me winning or losing, never have. Everyone always tells me "stop trying to re-invent the wheel and shoot what we know works". But I don't care. I just like trying new things. And a 1K range in competition is the ultimate proving ground for what I am trying at the time.

First time I went down to competition, I was shooting 15"-18" 10 shot groups at 1K from my 6.5mm hunting rifle on a bipod just because I wanted to see how well a bipod would do. I didn't win jack, but still had a GREAT time :) The prizes and trophies really don't concern me. If I win some some day, great. If not, whatever. At least I'm still doing something I enjoy and helping support the shooting sports by paying my membership dues.
 
Did you take the firing pin/spring out of the bolt and see how much force it takes to open and close the bolt? I bet you could send it to Gre-tan and have him work on it and bush the firing pin.
Also, look into Melonite. I have a couple of BAT's that are melonited, and they are pretty smooth.
 
On the shroud, I would go easy on the thread lapping, being sure not to use anything too coarse for the smoothing, so as not to degrade the fit while smoothing the surfaces, since the fit may be looser than is desirable to start with. There is a link between shroud fit in the bolt and accuracy that has been well established, and if the fit gets too loose in an otherwise very accurate rifle, you will loose accuracy. This is why Speedy suggested that Dave Kiff offer an over sized Remington shroud, that could be fitted for a closer fit. If you look on the web site, you will see it.

A few years back, I mentioned that I had disassembled the striker assembly of an old 722(redundant, they are all old) to check the fit of the shroud, and found that the thread fit was very loose. Not having a machine shop at my disposal, or the money to commission a custom fitted shroud, I looked around for a way to improve the fit, and decided to give plumbers teflon tape a try. While this did not slick up the action at all, it did take up the slack.

Some years later, a fellow had posted that he was having accuracy problems with one of two identical custom actioned benchrest rifles, that had both started out shooting good. At my suggestion, he tried several wraps of the tape the rifle's shroud threads. It fixed the problem. Later, when he checked the thread diameters of the two rifles' shrouds, he found that there was considerable difference. Evidently the one that had developed the problem was close to the edge on what would give the best accuracy, and wear took it into a fit that was too loose for best results.

Taking this one step farther, when Gene Buckys and Jackie Schmidt were both shooting Farley actions, Gene made them both custom shrouds out of something like graphite filled Delrin or Nylon (I forget). The self lubricating nature of the material allowed a closer fit in the bolt.

I believe that if you smooth the cocking cam and reduce the height of the cam side of the notch at the top of the cam, without moving the center of the notch, and use a good grease on the threads and cam that a lot can be accomplished toward smoothing a Remington or any action of similar design.
 
I'll check out Gre-tan and melonite. Thanks pmaurader.

Boyd, I've got scope ring lapping compound that came with my Wheeler kit. Would that work on the shroud threads? Or is it a little too coarse?
 
I think that that might be a little coarse and agressive. If I were gong to give it a try, I would load the threads with IOSSO after assembling the striker assembly and then install it in the bolt, wipe off anything that was on the cocking cam, and piece, lube them and then work the bolt, without the trigger on the action, perhaps a couple of dozen times. Before I did any of that, I would do the cam polishing and modification. I would also look into timing the trigger, so that the hand off was smooth, and that there was no cock on close at all. Having some cock on close, and too deep of a notch at the top of the cam are IMO the main offenders. The other issues have to do with whether the bolt root hits the extraction cam early enough for full extraction, and dealing with the clearance between the flats on the bottom of the shroud and the bottoms of the lug raceways. There are a lot of little things that can be checked and improved on a factory action.
 

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