Reloading questions and goofs from a novice

[grumpygunner]

Hi Guys,

I just started reloading and I've got a couples questions about things I think I messed up and things I'm not sure about.

Gear:
Lyman single stage C frame press
Lee Ultimate Dies in 6.5 Creedmoor
Lee Bench Perfect Primer
Lyman headspace gauge
Lee case trimmer/deburring tool
Frankford Arsenal de-priming tool

Load Data:
Caliber 6.5 Creedmoor
S&B or Sako once fired (all from my rifle) brass
Winchester StaBall 6.5 powder (40 grn)
Hornady ELD-M projectiles (140 grn)
CCI Large Rifle primers n. 200

My process so far:
De-prime
Rough clean of the primer pocket
Vibratory tumbling with treated Walnut media
Quick dusting to remove any dust from the Walnut media
Case lube (Hornady One-Shot)
Full length resize
Trim/deburr
Quick dusting to remove any metal shavings
Prime
Powder
Seat projectile
Light crimp

1.
I haven't gotten my process down yet, so I accidentally reloaded about 20 rounds without resizing the brass (S&B). I noticed the bullets were going in easier than the other batch of 20 I did previously (Sako brass), so I put it off to a difference in the brass. I only realized my mistake once I was done. I added a light factory crimp and the bullets are staying in and the vast majority of them do not wiggle. I can chamber and extract the other identical brass I haven't resized yet. I am not good enough of a shot (yet) to really be able to care about accuracy, but I would like to know if my assumption that they are safe to shoot is correct.

2.
After the above, I decided to resize a bunch of cases to avoid making the same mistake. I had previously resized others with no issues following tutorial on Youtube and got well headspaced cases according to my headspace gauge. However, this time I followed the instructions that came with the dies and didn't think to check the cases for headspace before doing 80 of them. Some of the cases (~40%) are either at or just below (<0.005) the minimum and the worst ones are 0.010 under the minimum, as per Lyman headspace gauge. Considering this is a bolt action rifle (Bergara B14 HMR) what tolerance should I have for cases that are under the minimum?

3.
How important is cleaning the inside or just the neck of used brass?

4.
Is it possible to set off primers with excessive, but constant, force when priming cases?

5.
Any other tips and tricks or comments about my process.

Thanks in advance.

Edited for spelling.

 

[Retired Grunt]

Make a Check list of your process.
Mine Is:

Step​	​
Tumbled​	​
Deprimed​	​
Annealed​	​
Trimmed​	​
Campher/Deburred​	​
Primer Pocket​	​
Full Length Sized​	​
Primer​	​
Loaded/Seated​	​

 

[grumpygunner]

Make a Check list of your process.
Mine Is:

Step​	​
Tumbled​	​
Deprimed​	​
Annealed​	​
Trimmed​	​
Campher/Deburred​	​
Primer Pocket​	​
Full Length Sized​	​
Primer​	​
Loaded/Seated​	​

Will do.

How important is the annealing process if case life isn't really an issue for me right now?

 

[Retired Grunt]

Will do.

How important is the annealing process if case life isn't really an issue for me right now?

I would say Annealing depends on what you shoot and how much, I shoot about a 100 rounds a month in F Class, I uses Peterson Brass which is kind of hard, my first set of 100 has been shot 10 times, I have about 500 cases ln both SRP and LRP. If you don't shoot that much, annealing may not be necessary.

 

[grumpygunner]

I would say Annealing depends on what you shoot and how much, I shoot about a 100 rounds a month in F Class, I uses Peterson Brass which is kind of hard, my first set of 100 has been shot 10 times, I have about 500 lots in bot SRP and LRP. If you don't shoot that much, annealing may not be necessary.

Thanks for the info. I wish I could shoot more, but there are next to no decent ranges around.

 

[Retired Grunt]

Thanks for the info. I wish I could shoot more, but there are next to no decent ranges around.

That can be a problem, I only 25 minutes away from my range and struggle to have time to go shoot. I had planned on going out today, but I was kind of sick this morning and decided to not go.

 

[BigWyoming]

Don't worry about annealing yet, just get your process down.

Making a checklist is a good idea. I put a slip of paper with my brass that indicates what has been done - sometimes I walk away and come back later.
Did I see loading manual on your list? Follow it to start and then add/subtract as you get comfortable.

For reference, my steps:
Anneal
Size - bump shoulder, neck size and mandrel
Tumble clean
Trim/chamfer
Brush necks
Prime
Charge
Seat

 

[Jager]

Welcome to the forum. And welcome to the wonderful world of handloading!

Your equipment is fine. The only thing you're missing is an inertial bullet puller. That's a simple tool. It doesn't cost much. And as you become more proficient at building ammunition, it'll get less and less use. But for right now, you surely ought to have one.

Two pieces of advice...

1. Simply your process. At this point in your journey you should be concentrating on making reliable, safe, serviceable ammunition. That's it.

Reloading at its most basic is very simple and very straightforward. So make your process that simple and that basic. I would forget tumbling. I would forget decapping as a separate step. I would forget using a spray lube. I would forget your two "dusting" steps, whatever those are. I would forget crimping.

Do as much by hand as you can. Buy a Lee hand priming tool and use that for awhile. Buy a tin of Imperial wax and lube your cases one at a time.

There's plenty of time in the future to automate this, or speed up that. But for now, let the tactile nature of reloading speak to you. Do it slowly.

2. Don't get in the habit after an egregious mistake - and forgetting to resize your brass certainly qualifies as an egregious mistake - of wondering whether those rounds are safe to use. "The vast majority of them do not wiggle" is not a testament to anything good. Yes, you could probably set them off in your rifle and all would be fine. But why? Just pull the bullets and make them right.

There's not a person on this forum who has not made mistakes at the loading bench. It's what you do afterwards that makes all the difference.

 

[grumpygunner]

Don't worry about annealing yet, just get your process down.

Making a checklist is a good idea. I put a slip of paper with my brass that indicates what has been done - sometimes I walk away and come back later.
Did I see loading manual on your list? Follow it to start and then add/subtract as you get comfortable.

For reference, my steps:
Anneal
Size - bump shoulder, neck size and mandrel
Tumble clean
Trim/chamfer
Brush necks
Prime
Charge
Seat

I did get Lyman 50th Edition Reloading Handbook, but I have a bad case of not following manuals.

 

[BigWyoming]

I did get Lyman 50th Edition Reloading Handbook, but I have a bad case of not following manuals.

Read it front to back, understand it and follow it.

 

[Old Tanker]

I’ve only been reloading for 5 years and consider myself a rank amateur. I’ve learned much from this forum, especially the archives. Everyone here is willing to help if you’re willing to listen. There is good advice posted here, most importantly, get a manual or manuals and follow them. Reloading is the last place where you avoid following the manual. Here is my process. I am not a match shooter so I don’t anneal.
1. Decap and first brass inspection.
2. Clean primer pockets and polish if needed.
3. Remove brass from media, paying close attention to media stuck in flash holes.
4. Check headspace of fired brass.
5. Brush neck, lube and resize, checking headspace to be sure .002-.003 bump. I want my cartridges to chamber smoothly. I use case wax. Also, use a case gage.
6. Inspect brass again, looking for signs of failure and checking case length.
7. Trim (if needed), chamfer and de-burr.
8. Prime.
9. Charge cases and seat bullets. One cartridge at a time. Charge the case and seat the bullet. I never have a loading block full of charged cases. Too much room for error. Start with book recommended starting loads and seating depth and work your way up in .3 grain increments. Don’t flirt with max until you have experience with making safe loads.

Plenty of threads on load development on this forum after you’re comfortable with basics. Avoid asking for pet loads. They were tested in someone else’s rifle.

 

[SSL]

I did get Lyman 50th Edition Reloading Handbook, but I have a bad case of not following manuals.

Number one mistake ^. Following directions, at least until you have the experience to take shortcuts, is important to your success...and your safety. Read that manual and every other one you can find, slow down your process, don't wait until you have loaded 80 to 100 before checking things and make sure you understand the hows and whys of each step before loading any more rounds. Loading isn't particularly dangerous if you follow basic rules and steps. Learn them and stay safe. It makes no difference whether you are loading 'plinking' rounds or competition cartridges, the basics still must be firmly in your head and followed or you could damage your rifle...or even worse, yourself..
Please stay safe.

 

[grumpygunner]

Read it front to back, understand it and follow it.

Reading it tonight.

 

[grumpygunner]

Welcome to the forum. And welcome to the wonderful world of handloading!

Your equipment is fine. The only thing you're missing is an inertial bullet puller. That's a simple tool. It doesn't cost much. And as you become more proficient at building ammunition, it'll get less and less use. But for right now, you surely ought to have one.

Two pieces of advice...

1. Simply your process. At this point in your journey you should be concentrating on making reliable, safe, serviceable ammunition. That's it.

Reloading at its most basic is very simple and very straightforward. So make your process that simple and that basic. I would forget tumbling. I would forget decapping as a separate step. I would forget using a spray lube. I would forget your two "dusting" steps, whatever those are. I would forget crimping.

Do as much by hand as you can. Buy a Lee hand priming tool and use that for awhile. Buy a tin of Imperial wax and lube your cases one at a time.

There's plenty of time in the future to automate this, or speed up that. But for now, let the tactile nature of reloading speak to you. Do it slowly.

2. Don't get in the habit after an egregious mistake - and forgetting to resize your brass certainly qualifies as an egregious mistake - of wondering whether those rounds are safe to use. "The vast majority of them do not wiggle" is not a testament to anything good. Yes, you could probably set them off in your rifle and all would be fine. But why? Just pull the bullets and make them right.

There's not a person on this forum who has not made mistakes at the loading bench. It's what you do afterwards that makes all the difference.

1.
I can certainly reduce or modify my tumbling step, but I'm worried about grit or other junk getting transferred from the case to the die during the resizing. Is there any way of mitigating this?

I will also omit the crimping step for the time being.

I'll be picking up a tin of wax on the way home tomorrow night.

I am enjoying the process so far, so I will make sure to take my time.

2.
I thought about pulling them and would gladly do so, but how do I resize them if I have already installed the primer?

My current die has a central pin which, from my observations, does the de-priming and does work on the neck. Do I need to remove the central pin, or is it crucial to resizing the neck?

 

[grumpygunner]

I’ve only been reloading for 5 years and consider myself a rank amateur. I’ve learned much from this forum, especially the archives. Everyone here is willing to help if you’re willing to listen. There is good advice posted here, most importantly, get a manual or manuals and follow them. Reloading is the last place where you avoid following the manual. Here is my process. I am not a match shooter so I don’t anneal.
1. Decap and first brass inspection.
2. Clean primer pockets and polish if needed.
3. Remove brass from media, paying close attention to media stuck in flash holes.
4. Check headspace of fired brass.
5. Brush neck, lube and resize, checking headspace to be sure .002-.003 bump. I want my cartridges to chamber smoothly. I use case wax. Also, use a case gage.
6. Inspect brass again, looking for signs of failure and checking case length.
7. Trim (if needed), chamfer and de-burr.
8. Prime.
9. Charge cases and seat bullets. One cartridge at a time. Charge the case and seat the bullet. I never have a loading block full of charged cases. Too much room for error. Start with book recommended starting loads and seating depth and work your way up in .3 grain increments. Don’t flirt with max until you have experience with making safe loads.

Plenty of threads on load development on this forum after you’re comfortable with basics. Avoid asking for pet loads. They were tested in someone else’s rifle.

4.
I have tried to check for headspace before resizing, but the case will not go far enough into the gauge to reach the shoulder. Is this a product of my rifle' chamber dimensions?

9.
I was processing them in 10 rounds batches, I will do singles until I can do it blindfolded (which I won't really do).

I will stick to manufacturer published load data for the time being

 

[grumpygunner]

Number one mistake ^. Following directions, at least until you have the experience to take shortcuts, is important to your success...and your safety. Read that manual and every other one you can find, slow down your process, don't wait until you have loaded 80 to 100 before checking things and make sure you understand the hows and whys of each step before loading any more rounds. Loading isn't particularly dangerous if you follow basic rules and steps. Learn them and stay safe. It makes no difference whether you are loading 'plinking' rounds or competition cartridges, the basics still must be firmly in your head and followed or you could damage your rifle...or even worse, yourself..
Please stay safe.

I will focus on the basics and take things one step at a time until I am confident that I know what I am doing.

 

[M-61]

Reading it tonight.

That's a great first step. Knowing what each step does is paramount. Once you grasp what each step does you'll see you should have an order in which comes next. ( no failure to forget resizing.) Depending on your time allowance you may fine 'prepping' the brass is all you may wish to accomplish at one sitting.
Correct nomenclature is also important when you may have a question.
e.g. Headspace gauge. That's in your rifle and lets say for this period of time for you it's not changeable. Your brass, if the need arises can be adjusted for that 'fixed' headspace.
I'm way ahead of myself.
Read your book. Remember you are not in a rush. And the minute you are unsure of anything the answer is just a keyboard away, as opposed to 'seeing' if something is safe.
The only stupid question is the unasked one.
There's more help on this site than you can imagine.

 

[K22]

I did get Lyman 50th Edition Reloading Handbook, but I have a bad case of not following manuals.

Then you should reconsider whether reloading is the right path for you. This is not intended to insult you but rather get you to think about it. Some indiviuals are just not detailed oriented and don't have patiences for reloading or the mind set for it. There is nothing wrong with that, its just different.

I have a friend who is a very good shooter but just didn't take to reloading so he shoot factory exclusively. The shortages not withstanding, today's factory ammo is quite good. The current problem of course is a constant supply but I'm seeing the same issues with reloading components.

Just something to chew on.

 

[BigWyoming]

A lot of steps are not necessary - you'll figure this out over time. I wipe my bass off before sizing and tumble afterwards to get the wax off. I also disassemble and clean my dies after every session.

Not sure on the LEE dies, you may be able to just remove the pin at the bottom - just have to look. You are correct in the fact that it sets your neck size on the return stroke.

Not sure about your headspace issue right now. I think you just need to start over and slow down.

Keep meticulous records. Buy a notebook and essentially keep minutes as you reload. Measurements, die settings, trouble and fixes, etc.

Reloading can be very satisfying.

 

[Spike A]

I agree with much if not all said above… only thing I will add that I found made a significant difference on my sd/es/ group size is … i will only resize a case if I’m going to have a loaded round with it by the end of the reloading session … I used to prep a ton of brass ahead of time … an older much longer reloader mentioned to me how letting it set the necks of the brass will spring back to all different sizes in time… said if you only have time to go through whole process on 10 rnds… the only do 10 at that session … .. made a world of difference on my odd flyers..