Sorry - this post is long so that I can go back in reference this in the future!!!
The seal coat does not lay out perfectly flat because of irregularities on the underlying table surface and different rates/amounts of absorption across the surface (cracks, joints, and porosity of various boards). I let it cure for 1-2 days, which is way more time than required (like as soon as 12 hours if you want. I went back and sanded with 100 grit (manufacturer recommended 80 - 120 grit) using a sanding block and orbital sander (dust collection attached). I knocked down any high spots and bubbles as well as any drip lines along the vertical sides. I wiped the top down using cotton rags and acetone to remove all sanding dust. I repeated this multiple times until it was total clean.
I poured the Resin first into my bucket and then the Hardener. I used a paddle mixer on my drill and thorough mixed at medium speed making sure to scrape the sides and bottom to ensure there was not any pockets of unmixed components. After 5 minutes I poured the Epoxy into a second bucket and scraped out every drop of component in the first bucket. I mixed the Epoxy for another 2-3 minutes to ensure 100% combine. Yes, there are small air bubble is the mixture but otherwise the mixture is clear (big difference from the 1st failed pour). You could see the bubble migrating up through the Epoxy in the bucket. I decided to give it a few minutes to rest in the bucket and off gas the bubbles before pouring it on the surface. I used this time to go around the edges of the table and sides applying a light coat using a Black Nylon Bristled Brush... Why "black"? So that if you loose a bristle it will stand out in the epoxy so that you can retrieve it before Epoxy sets. I watched a lot of YouTube videos... 2nd Failure was not an option. By adding a light coat directly from the bucket along the top edge down the sides of the top to facilitate the Epoxy's ability to flow and level easily across the top for a better finish.
I poured the epoxy across the top and then used a 4" & 6" plastic spreader/putty tool, which worked better then the foam brush. There were spots where the epoxy wasn't evenly spreading so the best technique was to chop up the surface with the blade, which then allowed the Epoxy to overcome surface tension and fill in the low spot the self-level. This chopping technique worked out really well to address high and low spots. There were some low spots (reflection from overhead lights pointed these out) that were localized so I simply added Epoxy that I scraped from drip line along bottom edge of sides and then used the torch to help it flow and blend with the surrounding Epoxy. By the time I had spread the epoxy as evenly as I could bubbles were off gassing. I quickly ran the torch across the surface allowing these bubbles to quickly pop. I waited for a few minutes to let bubbles work their way up through the surface and then want back with the torch working across the entire surface and along the edges and sides. Just by listening to the rate of Epoxy drops falling to the ground you can gauge how close the top is to leveling. I carefully went around the sides looking for thick run lines an drips. These could be leveled out by using the torch to heat up Epoxy along the area, which caused it to blend and run off in a smooth line.
The heat from the torch warms up the Epoxy which allows it to flow more easily (level and blend) and bubbles to pass through/out of it more easily. Too much heat can burn the surface &/or rapidly speed up the curing processes. I kept my torch about 6" off the surface and made slow consistent passes across the entire top and sides for about 10-15 minutes. I stopped when I didn't see any more bubbles and then I made a careful pass around the skirt/sides to check for runs or drips and smoothed those out.
I don't know why my phone's camera changes the lighting/color depending upon the shot. This is what the entire surface looks like...It is much better than I could have hoped for!!! I used the 1 gallon MAS Top Coat Epoxy kit that is made to cover 12 square feet to do my top (15 square feet), including the seal coat. The end result is plenty thick.
Next steps: Let cure over the weekend and then flip the top over and use flush cut router bit to remove the drip lines along bottom edge. Cut recess in top for Ultramount plate.
The seal coat does not lay out perfectly flat because of irregularities on the underlying table surface and different rates/amounts of absorption across the surface (cracks, joints, and porosity of various boards). I let it cure for 1-2 days, which is way more time than required (like as soon as 12 hours if you want. I went back and sanded with 100 grit (manufacturer recommended 80 - 120 grit) using a sanding block and orbital sander (dust collection attached). I knocked down any high spots and bubbles as well as any drip lines along the vertical sides. I wiped the top down using cotton rags and acetone to remove all sanding dust. I repeated this multiple times until it was total clean.
I poured the Resin first into my bucket and then the Hardener. I used a paddle mixer on my drill and thorough mixed at medium speed making sure to scrape the sides and bottom to ensure there was not any pockets of unmixed components. After 5 minutes I poured the Epoxy into a second bucket and scraped out every drop of component in the first bucket. I mixed the Epoxy for another 2-3 minutes to ensure 100% combine. Yes, there are small air bubble is the mixture but otherwise the mixture is clear (big difference from the 1st failed pour). You could see the bubble migrating up through the Epoxy in the bucket. I decided to give it a few minutes to rest in the bucket and off gas the bubbles before pouring it on the surface. I used this time to go around the edges of the table and sides applying a light coat using a Black Nylon Bristled Brush... Why "black"? So that if you loose a bristle it will stand out in the epoxy so that you can retrieve it before Epoxy sets. I watched a lot of YouTube videos... 2nd Failure was not an option. By adding a light coat directly from the bucket along the top edge down the sides of the top to facilitate the Epoxy's ability to flow and level easily across the top for a better finish.
I poured the epoxy across the top and then used a 4" & 6" plastic spreader/putty tool, which worked better then the foam brush. There were spots where the epoxy wasn't evenly spreading so the best technique was to chop up the surface with the blade, which then allowed the Epoxy to overcome surface tension and fill in the low spot the self-level. This chopping technique worked out really well to address high and low spots. There were some low spots (reflection from overhead lights pointed these out) that were localized so I simply added Epoxy that I scraped from drip line along bottom edge of sides and then used the torch to help it flow and blend with the surrounding Epoxy. By the time I had spread the epoxy as evenly as I could bubbles were off gassing. I quickly ran the torch across the surface allowing these bubbles to quickly pop. I waited for a few minutes to let bubbles work their way up through the surface and then want back with the torch working across the entire surface and along the edges and sides. Just by listening to the rate of Epoxy drops falling to the ground you can gauge how close the top is to leveling. I carefully went around the sides looking for thick run lines an drips. These could be leveled out by using the torch to heat up Epoxy along the area, which caused it to blend and run off in a smooth line.
The heat from the torch warms up the Epoxy which allows it to flow more easily (level and blend) and bubbles to pass through/out of it more easily. Too much heat can burn the surface &/or rapidly speed up the curing processes. I kept my torch about 6" off the surface and made slow consistent passes across the entire top and sides for about 10-15 minutes. I stopped when I didn't see any more bubbles and then I made a careful pass around the skirt/sides to check for runs or drips and smoothed those out.
I don't know why my phone's camera changes the lighting/color depending upon the shot. This is what the entire surface looks like...It is much better than I could have hoped for!!! I used the 1 gallon MAS Top Coat Epoxy kit that is made to cover 12 square feet to do my top (15 square feet), including the seal coat. The end result is plenty thick.
Next steps: Let cure over the weekend and then flip the top over and use flush cut router bit to remove the drip lines along bottom edge. Cut recess in top for Ultramount plate.
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