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Release issue with bedding job

Can you get the studs out of the pillars to replace with the action screws? If you can put the action screws back in finger tight/basically a bit loose and go shoot the gun. I had to do this on two occasions way back when. Both times it shook the mechanical lock free.
Second alternative if you can get the screws back in would be to put it back togeter under very low screw torque and shoot a few groups basically to do the same as above.
 
Have heard opposite.put in deepfreeze?idk lol
Never had a problem

Yeah have bedded several rifles all turned out very professional but my line of work Ive learned how to fit things together and relieve/block out undercuts to allow release . anyways kiwi shoe polish is my go to release agent.

Generally lifting up towards barrel end will let it loose if you think about how recoil lug sits and how you should have taped it off.

I normally don't fool with clay damn/block out just go back and carefully remove excess and use release agent on action and screws.maybe dam up block out area as needed per your rifle

Between pink rifles and stuck bedding you are definitely learning the hard way but you'll definitely know not what to do next time

Not a gunsmith or care to use correct terminology but I bed rifles stress free with no pits or voids successfully .

JB weld is very runny you have to watch it skim over /thicken before using .it works but you need to watch it forever before using to get a good consistency.

Use marine tex or devcon steel and tape off recoil lug correctly then use kiwi clear shoe polish as release agent.the rest is easy clean up
My home release agent is ORIGINAL PAM COOKING SPRAY!!! Simple old vegetable oil!!! I've used it for 3 lug beddings!!! Also works great for bordering polyester boat repairs!!!
BILL
 
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Had a barreled action stick on me. (Parker Hale M98). Put it in the deep freeze overnight and a few blows with a rubber mallet next morning on the barrel next to the end of the stock and the barreled action pooped out.
 
Hold the stock firmly and rap the bottom of the barrel just ahead of the forearm a few inches. Use your workbench with a folded towel to rap the barrel against, You don't have to rap it real hard.

If that doesn't work put it in your deep freezer overnight and try the same thing again. Like another poster said, You may have a mechanical lock. But I have used this method on tough ones and they pop out usually.
 
Many people underestimate just how close fitting a good bedding job it. Lots of clearance is required to grab a barrel and lift the gun out. When done right that thing must come out straight up or it'll feel like its locked in there.

It may just need persuasion and a little cold to free it up enough. But a good mallet and a beer usually fixes everything. Your milage may vary.
 
Years ago I bedded a few rifles with JB Weld and other compounds with good luck. Like you, I decided to do my latest after reading all the instructions. I thought I had everything correct but over thought it. Dammed and plugged all the holes, used the release agent that came with the kit and started the final bedding.

Then about 2 hours later I decided to test it, as per instructions. Glad I did. I forgot to block off the tenson screw and the bedding compound filled up the hole. Fortunately I didn't use enough hardening compound and nothing stuck so I was able to clean off all the bedding.

I decided that I could live with my rifle the was it is. Maybe I'll get a friend to help next time but at 72 I'm too old to try some things even with experiences from many years ago.
 
It's been a few years since I bedded my last rifle. Last time I used silicone spray designed as mold release. Worked great.
I'll be doing a Rem 600 Mohawk in the near future.
This thread is a good reminder to be careful.
 
Glue In is better than bedded. It should shoot great as it is.

If it MUST come out, HEAT will do it. Often, a hair dryer is all it takes.

Opinion of a hobbyest that has done a bunch of them ;)
 
On this note, what's the best release agent since the SC Johnson Paste wax is gone?

I've been contemplating attempting bedding myself, The only thing I'm a bit scared of is sticking the action into the stock.
 
I’ve bed a few rifles with MarineTex and used this as my release agent. It worked wonderfully. I can’t speak to how well it’d work with anything else.

 
On this note, what's the best release agent since the SC Johnson Paste wax is gone?

I've been contemplating attempting bedding myself, The only thing I'm a bit scared of is sticking the action into the stock.
I used minwax paste wax for 3 of mine. Not even a hint of a problem.
 
I've done a bunch of stocks with 10110 using McLube, Johnson wax and Brownells acraglass release agent. Never an issue

The last one I did a few months ago I used Johnson paste wax and filles all voids/holes with clay. No issues. Tap on the top of the action with a rubber mallet and it popped right out.
 
Paste wax and mold release agents like Part All all work well. Obviously, avoid anything that has a film thickness, like the blue poly vinyl Brownells stuff that comes in the AcraGlass kits. A big 'no' to greasy stuff like Pam, Crisco, WD40 or the old oil from your lawn mower.
 
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