Is this normal for a bedding job?

[LVLAaron]

Just for reference... This is a 400 dollar bedding job. 3 pillars. He moved the bolt and ejection ports to the opposite side of the stock and color coordinated it.

 

[riverside jeep]

I think I would loosen the action screws to finger tight and then try the action, if that fixed the problem with it being stiff, you have a bum bedding job.

 

[butchlambert]

View attachment 1241055

Just for reference... This is a 400 dollar bedding job. 3 pillars. He moved the bolt and ejection ports to the opposite side of the stock and color coordinated it.

Check out cigarcop's bedding.

 

[JPB3]

Didn't the whole thread but without a description of exactly what's going on when you close the bolt my guess is the front guard screw is now protruding up into the action and hitting the bottom lug as you close the bolt.. If this is the case, a few strokes with a file to shorten the screw should solve it.

The bedding isn't as clean and void free as it should be but may be serving it's purpose ok..

 

[LVLAaron]

Didn't the whole thread but without a description of exactly what's going on when you close the bolt my guess is the front guard screw is now protruding up into the action and hitting the bottom lug as you close the bolt.. If this is the case, a few strokes with a file to shorten the screw should solve it.

The bedding isn't as clean and void free as it should be but may be serving it's purpose ok..

I just bedded a really similar stock (savage / HS Precision stock) - This is probably the right answer. This, or there's a little booger of bedding compound stuck somewhere that just needs to be cleaned out

 

[timeout]

Bill said the bedding looked amateurish. When cigarcop does bedding it is a "professional" job and looks like artwork. Bill did not make a comment on the bill other than he wouldn't get into it.

I'm an amateur and I would be ashamed if my bedding jobs looked as poor as the one being discussed here.

 

[Will Henry]

In all fairness, there is not much more to be done with a bedding block than a skim bed. From there, the only concern is to make it stress free and, one would hope, reasonably attractive. The other aspect of this is, since there is not much to be done, it is comparatively easy and I would think it shouldn't cost too much. One thing I can say is, rifles I have worked with which had bedding blocks, always shot better when bedded. I think this is mostly because the recoil lug mated better. I have to add, the difference was usually not huge. Maybe 20%. In other words, a 3/4 moa rifle might turn into a 5/8 moa rifle. This was the case unless the fit of the block was seriously flawed; in which case the improvement could be better.
Whether or not the barrel has to be removed for threading is dependent on the lathe, the length of the barrel, and the concentricity of the bore related to the outside at the breech end. Usually, the breech is fairly concentric so one can simply dial in the outside of the breech end. The issue with regards to chambering with this rifle are more likely to be related to the barrel removal and repaint than having anything to do with the bedding; "properly torqued" notwithstanding! WH

 

[AlNyhus]

In all fairness, there is not much more to be done with a bedding block than a skim bed. From there, the only concern is to make it stress free and, one would hope, reasonably attractive. The other aspect of this is, since there is not much to be done, it is comparatively easy and I would think it shouldn't cost too much. One thing I can say is, rifles I have worked with which had bedding blocks, always shot better when bedded. I think this is mostly because the recoil lug mated better. I have to add, the difference was usually not huge. Maybe 20%. In other words, a 3/4 moa rifle might turn into a 5/8 moa rifle. This was the case unless the fit of the block was seriously flawed; in which case the improvement could be better. WH

Agreed.

I have seen several 700's where the bedding block was tweaked....I made a lapping bar to address those. Using the lapping bar on all 700's alum. bedding block stocks, regardless of mfg., is how I do all of 'em now.

Good shootin'. -Al

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Agreed.

I have seen several 700's where the bedding block was tweaked....I made a lapping bar to address those. Using the lapping bar on all 700's alum. bedding block stocks, regardless of mfg., is how I do all of 'em now.

Good shootin'. -Al

Same here, so I usually set the stock up in the mill and take a skim cut to true up the bedding block before bedding it.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

In all fairness, there is not much more to be done with a bedding block than a skim bed. From there, the only concern is to make it stress free and, one would hope, reasonably attractive. The other aspect of this is, since there is not much to be done, it is comparatively easy and I would think it shouldn't cost too much. One thing I can say is, rifles I have worked with which had bedding blocks, always shot better when bedded. I think this is mostly because the recoil lug mated better. I have to add, the difference was usually not huge. Maybe 20%. In other words, a 3/4 moa rifle might turn into a 5/8 moa rifle. This was the case unless the fit of the block was seriously flawed; in which case the improvement could be better.
Whether or not the barrel has to be removed for threading is dependent on the lathe, the length of the barrel, and the concentricity of the bore related to the outside at the breech end. Usually, the breech is fairly concentric so one can simply dial in the outside of the breech end. The issue with regards to chambering with this rifle are more likely to be related to the barrel removal and repaint than having anything to do with the bedding; "properly torqued" notwithstanding! WH

That bedding is paper thin. Most that do a bedding block would take out way more material before bedding. Thats almost transparent

 

[6MMsteve]

That bedding is paper thin. Most that do a bedding block would take out way more material before bedding. Thats almost transparent

that's what mine looks like lol,,,I'm a shade tree bedding guy... maybe more like a polk stalk shade bedding guy

 

[Dusty Stevens]

that's what mine looks like lol,,,I'm a shade tree bedding guy... maybe more like a polk stalk shade bedding guy

Chisel it on out more next time. Leave one spot untouched so itll sit in the right spot. On aluminum ones like that i leave one little spot on those v blocks. To really make it look good go back in and grid that part out, ruff it up again and rebed. Itll look like a one shot job then

 

[NateHaler]

Yeah, five bills is far too much. OP agreed to pay for it- now someone else says to dispute the bill because they think it's too much? You gotta be effing kidding me.

The OP agreed, presumably in advance, to pay for service to enhance the performance of his rifle. The service did NOT do that, and in fact reduced the performance of his rifle. No different than if you had brought your Prius to the mechanic for a brake job, and then after paying them for the service you realize your brakes are worse off than before.

If the service provider doesn't live up to their obligation, then the buyer has the right (and I say DUTY, because chances are the service provider has screwed other consumers too) to dispute the charge. As in the credit-card transaction. Because they paid for something that they didn't get.

Maybe now you understand. Or do you just accept shoddy work and thus enable these hacks to continue preying on other customers? If so, then it's you who gotta be effing kidding me. (sic)

 

[mills braswell]

As for the round that will not chamber without great force, that seems to be isolated to the round. I tried several other rounds, and once I cleaned the action up, they all chambered better. The one round that would not chamber is odd.

I am curious as to this one round. Could there be a possibility this case was a tick too long, and the die set too low, and possible crimping occurred, bulging the shoulder ever so slightly, causing it not to chamber? Or maybe this one case had more spring back after sizing, and will not chamber because the headspace was altered during the barrel removal/install process? Or would this particular round have been an issue before the work was done?

 

[Adam0321/0306]

I am curious as to this one round. Could there be a possibility this case was a tick too long, and the die set too low, and possible crimping occurred, bulging the shoulder ever so slightly, causing it not to chamber? Or maybe this one case had more spring back after sizing, and will not chamber because the headspace was altered during the barrel removal/install process? Or would this particular round have been an issue before the work was done?

So I ran this one case through the sizing die again. A Redding type S F/L. Still would not chamber. I measured everything I could think of. COAL, WEB, the neck. everything looked identical to the cases that would chamber. Even the shoulder comparators seemed the same.

 

[carlsbad]

Lots of bunny trails taking this thread off course.

Take the barreled action out of the stock. put the barrel in a vise to hold it if possible. Does it now feel normal? do the rounds chamber properly? If so, mounting in a stock should not change these parameters. There is something wrong with the bedding. If on the other hand, nothing changes, then I think it is unrelated to the bedding job. --Jerry