Refinishing wood stock

[estes640]

I am looking to refinish a wood stock I just got for my savage model 10. I am going to be using this gun for target shooting and hunting, so I would like it quite durable.

I've always liked the look of wood better than synthetic, so I have stuck with it. The stock has pillars already in it, and so strength wise it should be fine. What do you guys suggest as far as a durable finish for the exterior and the inner barrel channel? How do you guys finish your stocks?

Thanks,
Ryan

 

[savagedasher]

I am looking to refinish a wood stock I just got for my savage model 10. I am going to be using this gun for target shooting and hunting, so I would like it quite durable.

I've always liked the look of wood better than synthetic, so I have stuck with it. The stock has pillars already in it, and so strength wise it should be fine. What do you guys suggest as far as a durable finish for the exterior and the inner barrel channel? How do you guys finish your stocks?

Thanks,
Ryan

I take mine to a paint shop Larry

 

[Hntndad]

If it's a fairly plain Jane wood stock then start buy stripping it. Chemically is easiest. You can use a 3m pad to help it along. If it has checkering- use a stiff nylon brush. Dings and dents in the wood can be steamed out.

I like to sand out to about 600 grit depending on the softness of the wood. I prefer to fill the grain with a sanding slurry of oil (or poly if your going to clear coat)
Depending on the quality, color, figure you decide on whether to keep natural finish or stain. Wet with mineral spirits to get a good idea of what it will look like when finished.
Use a good stain. I'm not a fan of department store stains. Check out your local woodcraft store for a good alcohol stain. I've used Pilkington stains on factory stocks with excellent results.
Tape off the checkering.
Then drop that sucker off at your favorite body shop. I've got a guy that doesn't charge me a dime. He shoots them with clear at the same time he does small parts like door handles and bumpers...

 

[22BRGUY]

I've done several wood and wood laminated stocks with Formbys and have been very happy with the results. It takes about 7 or 8 coats to get the desired result but it's quick and easy to apply. The first coats look kind of dullish, but as more coats are applied, it looks better and better and at about 7 coats it just really pops out nicely. I also like it because if at some point a scratch or mar happens it's easy to lightly sand down and blend right back in. I get mine at Menards but I know it's widely available.

 

[joshb]

For my stocks, especially hunting stocks that can get dinged, I like an oil finish. It's just too easy to do and repair. It also feels and smells good.

 

[bheadboy]

as above, I strip, if checkered tape off the checkering the use a tooth brush to get that area clean, sand lightly to the 600 lever, then I start with a stain that gives the color level I am looking for, test area where you can re sand, in the bbl channel, and then stain the stock rubbing in a little at a time. after that dries, a day or two, the hair will have risen up, so on the first finish coat I re sand with 1000 to get the hair off, I use a semi gloss poly for the finish rubbed in by hand.

if you want to go English, use a good oil base finish and never look back. lots of coats.

Bob

 

[jdh47]

For a durable finish I would use Minwax Urithane Spar Varnish. Sand to a 600 grit finish and fill the pores with the varnish. let dry well and sand down again making sure all pores are full. Then put on several very thin coats of the varnish. Any runs or marks will have to be sanded off. You can spray the varnish on but rubbing it on by hand in thin coats will give the best results. When finished buff out and wax with a good paste wax and it should glitter like the mouth of hell. If you want a more dull finish then lightly rub with rottenstone and water.

Usually I use the Spar Varnish to fill the pores and use True Oil which is much like spar varnish to finish with. London type finishes are much the same steps. You fill the pores with a concoction of secret ingredients you call slakum and then hand rub linseed oil on over a long period of time allowing it to dry between coats. Linseed oil will darken with time.

The finish will also depend on the wood itself. Open pored wood takes longer to fill the pores and is not as durable as fine grained wood. It dents easier.

No finish on wood is going to withstand bumps that are hard enough to cause a dent or scratches. You can sand the scratches out and refinish with the same finish you used to finish with but bare in mind that durable here relates only to normal wear from handling. I myself have proved that most any finish can be beat up.

Joe

 

[XBBR Shooter]

If you want the original Winchester colour in the wood, use "French Red" stain (it is not "red").

Brownell's sells it - I have a Winchester 30-06, M-70 Target rifle that saw time in Viet Nam. The metal was 99%, but the stock was rough. I stripped it, and steamed it. Then I used French Red as a stain, and then used satin poly - it looks factory new.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...wood-finishes/french-red-stain-prod25688.aspx

.

 

[estes640]

I appreciate everyone's responses. Thanks for all the ideas

 

[jonbearman]

Can you post a picture of the exact stock before you try refinishing a stock that may or may not be worth redoing such as their cheap poplar stocks which crack a lot with some use on them. You can get a drop in stock at Boyds for cheap with a durable finish and much stronger. I once redid a factory savage stock out of poplar and when it was done it developed a crack in the wrist even though it was bedded.

 

[gotcha]

Hi Ryan, If you could tell us the type of wood you'll be finishing and whether you've got one piece wood or a laminate we could give you more specifics. ........... I'm a Permalyn finish fan. It contains dryers and allows for wiping on several coats per day. Thinned 50/50 to 25/75 with mineral spirits you can achieve a furniture grade end result.............. Permalyn is a polyurethane and is slightly amber in color so some darkening of the wood is expected. Because of the dryers, Permalyn is best applied under 70* F

 

[Rpbump]

Tung oil is great for a wood/laminate stock. Very durable and easy to "touch up".
Rpbump

 

[estes640]

Im honestly not too sure on the type of wood. I know it is one piece however. It is an older savage wood stock.

 

[itchyTF]

I also prefer an oil finish but to each his own.

 

[waldo1979]

Always start with a chemical stripper before mechanical stripping (sand paper). For finish use a good poly, Tru-Oil (a multi-oil blend designed for guns) or a marine varnish (I like Epifanes which you can get at a marine supply store). Poly will be the hardest finish and go on the easiest, but I find some Polys are a little cloudy.

Marine varnishes are the easiest to touch up. Tru-oil will make the wood grain pop a little more. You could also do a maloof wipe-on/wipe-off blend with poly, linseed and mineral spirits (equal parts). Finding a good linseed oil is difficult though and expensive (e.g. tried and true, non-polymerized).

Consider also if you're going to spray or wipe-on. You can use a box fan and a harbor Frieght spray gun to spray varnish. Poly and Truoil wipes on really easy.

Then also consider the work need to rub out the finish and prep work needed. Probably only need to prep to 220 with varnish and poly. Oil needs a 400/600 grit finish but doesn't need a rub out.

 

[XTR]

It's work, but this is what I do.

http://www.riflebuilders.com/finish.html

 

[TheOtherZilla]

I haven't re-finished a wood stock in quite a few years. But when I do I use Tung oil... Rub it on with your fingers... Multiple coats and lightly sand between coats w 2000 grit finish paper and a tack cloth

 

[hunter243sgk]

Go to the rimfire section here and look up that old rem 341 sportmaster I did and if you like that pm me. I will tell you how I did it. Good luck!!