Stock finishes

[muleman69]

Has anyone tried bed linear on synthetic stocks? What's out there for good durable finish on synthetic hunting stock?

 

[joshb]

I bought some deck paint for my boat that’s 12 years old and still looks.....well....walked on a lot....but it’s holding up great and hasn’t peeled or failed yet. You can get it in quarts, online. It comes with the traction “bits” or without and it comes in different colors. It’s called Durabak. Good stuff!

 

[Bc'z]

Bedliner will add slit of weight to your stock.
Not to mention the thickness.
Try Sem clear chipguard 3m has some also. You can pick it up at automotive paint store.
Prime stock first then sand smooth before applying. Seal and paint to taste.

 

[muleman69]

Bedliner will add slit of weight to your stock.
Not to mention the thickness.
Try Sem clear chipguard 3m has some also. You can pick it up at automotive paint store.
Prime stock first then sand smooth before applying. Seal and paint to taste.

I have some imperfections in stock from the mold, will this fill them up before I prime and paint ? Or how should I go about this one step at a time? Thanks

 

[Bc'z]

Use a lil finish putty 1st, 3m, overcoat, USC which ever you prefer. I personally like evercoat Finish sand in 180grit, scuff stock with scotchbrite mask off inlettingand bedding.wype down with a water born cleaner. "Dont use solvents on plastic"
Spray adhesion promoter for plastic, also comes in rattle can. Let set 10-15 minutes. Now prime. After priming sand with 180, chipguard and paint.

 

[muleman69]

Use a lil finish putty 1st, 3m, overcoat, USC which ever you prefer. I personally like evercoat Finish sand in 180grit, scuff stock with scotchbrite mask off inlettingand bedding.wype down with a water born cleaner. "Dont use solvents on plastic"
Spray adhesion promoter for plastic, also comes in rattle can. Let set 10-15 minutes. Now prime. After priming sand with 180, chipguard and paint.

Sounds good,I have a pretty good hollow in butt stock. Should I fill it with something in order to screw recoil pad on?

 

[Bc'z]

Without seeing it it's hard to say. So ask yourself this.
When recoil pad is in place, is there any place for screws to get purchase?
Is weight a concern? If not fill it. Or
If weight is a concern make a spacer and glue it to stock. Aluminum probably be easy enough to work with.
There is a lot of good 2 part panel bonders adhesives there. Pre drill before bonding.
Hope this helps, it was a lot to answer beings I haven't had any coffee yet. Shoot me a couple pics n maybe I can answer more.

 

[Bc'z]

Ok just had another thought.
Got to thinking about repairing a hole in fiberglass jet ski.
1st back fill void in stock with expandable foam., hollow out input that 1/2- 3/4 " after foam has set. Now fill with epoxy resin, or catalyzed fiber glass resin. You could even chop up some fiberglass matting to get some fibers in there for extra strength.
This should keep weight down add strength and give a place for screws to purchase.

 

[JFrank]

Brett
I'm not a painter "
I've heard of a two part epoxy filler used then sand and prime, followed by Marine grade paint is this similar to the process your describing?
Jim

 

[Bc'z]

Brett
I'm not a painter "
I've heard of a two part epoxy filler used then sand and prime, followed by Marine grade paint is this similar to the process your describing?
Jim

Close.
I'm thinking by muleman's post the stock is hollow giving no place to mount but pad short of gluing in place.
Kiffin he made a slurry of fiberglass resin and finely chopped glass matting for strength..
Then yes sand n prime for paint.
You've fixed a boat before, huh?

 

[BLCKWLF]

Never used bedliner on a stock, but Polane-T from Sherwin Williams is the paint of choice.

 

[JFrank]

Never used bedliner on a stock, but Polane-T from Sherwin Williams is the paint of choice.

Is that a Marine grade?

 

[BLCKWLF]

Is that a Marine grade?

I believe its Aerospace, it's what we use here at McMillan.