Refinishing an old 40X stock

[XTR]

How does one best remove the oil finish from an old 40X stock? Looks like it's been soaked a few times.

 

[Hal]

How does one best remove the oil finish from an old 40X stock? Looks like it's been soaked a few times.

On those old 40x s stocks someone said to use Bar Keeper's friend.

Hal

 

[Ggmac]

Purple Stuff and the warm sunshine , let stand 15-20 min blast off with garden hose , air compressor to dry . Removes all finish and grime .

 

[Gene66]

I use Stirip fast,Paint and varnish stripper .

 

[RWO]

If you can find a big enough container, this will do it:
Get a disposable aluminum roaster pan at the supermarket that is large enough for the
stock. Stop by your Home Depot or whatever and get a gallon of acetone and a
gallon of alcohol. If the stock has a plastic finish you might want a can of
some paste stripper too. Use that first if the outside finish requires it. If
the stock has a varnish or oil finish the acetone will lift that with no
problem. Then toss the stock in the roaster and pour in the acetone (it will
also neutralize the paste stripper). Cover the wood until it floats. Then pull
off a good length of aluminum foil and make a cover for the "tank", sealing it
as well as possible. Be aware that acetone is highly volatile and smoking the
cigar over the top of it is not recommended. Let the things soak for several
days, turning the wood over a couple times a day. When you feel like you're
tired of that, and the acetone looks like it has quit changing color, pour the
acetone back in the can, rinse the roaster out with alcohol, and then soak the
stock in the alcohol just like you did in the acetone. When you yank the baby
out of the alcohol bath it will be CLEAN! And you can seal it and refinish it
anyway you want after you let it dry a couple days

 

[Ggmac]

All those may/ will work but are either flammable or take too long . I've done many hundred Mauser / military /cmp stocks . For about $1 worth of non flammable Purple stuff and an afternoon of relaxing , spray let sit and hose off , that's it . It removes Greece , oil , dirt and OLD finish ( not the bowling ball 700 shinny stuff )
Pm me if you want .

 

[XTR]

After you hose off the purple stuff how long does it take for the moisture content to get back to something that you can finish?

Seems like adding water to dry wood is counter intuitive.

 

[Ggmac]

down here in south Florida , I blow the stock off with an air compressor or shop vac , set in sun for about 1-2 hrs , comes out like it was just made .
So your answer depends on the sun , but 1-2 hours in direct sun .
I know it just sounds wrong but it works . I've honestly done hundreds , I use to do 5-10 a day using a pressure washer . Thank god those days are over . I just finished a 40 XB , last week . I can email pics but I don't have any pre cleaning pics .
The Mausers I did were a mess , cracks and all . After cleaning and drying the cracks were glued and an linseed oil finish given . Still retained all dents , just had clean wood . That's all they wanted , no sanding , staining . Just clean , glued cracks .
Just try an old 22 stock or any piece of oily wood , it costs very little . Walmart has the purple stuff .
Pm me if needed .

 

[hoz53]

down here in south Florida , I blow the stock off with an air compressor or shop vac , set in sun for about 1-2 hrs , comes out like it was just made .
So your answer depends on the sun , but 1-2 hours in direct sun .
I know it just sounds wrong but it works . I've honestly done hundreds , I use to do 5-10 a day using a pressure washer . Thank god those days are over . I just finished a 40 XB , last week . I can email pics but I don't have any pre cleaning pics .
The Mausers I did were a mess , cracks and all . After cleaning and drying the cracks were glued and an linseed oil finish given . Still retained all dents , just had clean wood . That's all they wanted , no sanding , staining . Just clean , glued cracks .
Just try an old 22 stock or any piece of oily wood , it costs very little . Walmart has the purple stuff .
Pm me if needed .

Thanks for that Purple stuff tip Ggmac. Ive got some purple power degreaser--Is that the stuff? Ive got an egyptian FN 49 stock I think was drug through the desert for 20 years thats a good candidate ill try it on

 

[Ggmac]

Thanks for that Purple stuff tip Ggmac. Ive got some purple power degreaser--Is that the stuff? Ive got an egyptian FN 49 stock I think was drug through the desert for 20 years thats a good candidate ill try it on

On thin sides of semi autos the drying with compressor or a shop vac is very important . It'll work even if it's not walnut , it's not so good on pine !
Yes any of the purple degreaser stuff works , use full strength .

 

[222 rem]

Just finished a 40 xbbr. Acetone then steam to raise 37 years of dents. Recountoured stock to mimic Kelby klub. It tracks much better. Multiple coats of linseed.

 

[hoz53]

Just finished a 40 xbbr. Acetone then steam to raise 37 years of dents. Recountoured stock to mimic Kelby klub. It tracks much better. Multiple coats of linseed.

soaked in acetone or brushed it on?

 

[Remshot]

I recently refinished a 40X stock that was made in 1967. I used Citri-Strip that i bought at Home Depot. I brushed it on and let it set overnight. The next day the old finish rubbed off with a rag. I let it dry and lightly sanded and it was ready for the new finish. Really simple and it turned out great.

 

[jds holler]

The fact is, that even though it may look like the oil is soaked in an inch deep, -- it isn't. A good scrubbing with acetone with brushes and rags will cut and clean quickly, and break down any possible varnish that was used in the past.

THEN -- start sanding with a fairly fine paper, say 150 or finer, and you will be able to cut the surface color and damage very easily. Continue with finer grits all the way to 400, and you will be amazed at how quickly your stock becomes a real peach.

I'm kind of a boiled linseed purist, and that's where I'd go next. jd

 

[hoz53]

I recently refinished a 40X stock that was made in 1967. I used Citri-Strip that i bought at Home Depot. I brushed it on and let it set overnight. The next day the old finish rubbed off with a rag. I let it dry and lightly sanded and it was ready for the new finish. Really simple and it turned out great.

thanks ive got some citristrip

 

[hoz53]

The fact is, that even though it may look like the oil is soaked in an inch deep, -- it isn't. A good scrubbing with acetone with brushes and rags will cut and clean quickly, and break down any possible varnish that was used in the past.

THEN -- start sanding with a fairly fine paper, say 150 or finer, and you will be able to cut the surface color and damage very easily. Continue with finer grits all the way to 400, and you will be amazed at how quickly your stock becomes a real peach.

I'm kind of a boiled linseed purist, and that's where I'd go next. jd

thats good info thanks-- I dont want to breathe to much of acetone I dont believe

 

[Remshot]

i also used the Citristrip on an old Weatherby and it removed the finish to the bare wood. Not as easy as the Remington, but it worked. I kept the stock in a large plastic storage tote and all of the finish stayed inside. Made for a really easy clean up when finished. Good luck with your gun!

 

[222 rem]

soaked in acetone or brushed it on?

Brushed on then used a scraper to remove old finish.

 

[jds holler]

Here's what my 40x rimfire stock turned out like recently. The walnut in these stocks isn't real fancy, it's just real nice. I was very lucky on this one, as there was no damage that required any deep sanding or repair. Finish is boiled linseed only, no stain or anything else. jd

 

[hoz53]

Brushed on then used a scraper to remove old finish.

thanks for that info- i could do it/ leave it outside for a bit.