Red oil version for walnut stocks -- Similar to Holland & Holland

[Jonnyofalltrades]

Some of you may want to cover your ears.

My cheat for wood filling is epoxy.
Use alcohol based dye to get the stock the right color. Warm the stock and the low viscosity epoxy beforehand and apply generously. Wipe of excess after it soaks in, but before it cures.
Lightly sand any defects after a good long cure(no it does NOT sand down easily, that's the whole point),then proceed with whatever oil, clearcoat, etc, etc. Or use another coat or two of epoxy to build a thin film, cutting back between coats. I use steel wool and paste wax at the end to give a nice matte "hand-rubbed oil" look. I'm not going to lie and say that it slaps on easy like Tru Oil, but when you're done it is the toughest finish I've ever used. Polyurethane is a delicate flower in comparison.
I use System 3 Clearcoat.

 

[SGK]

Yeah try fixing a dent with a domestic iron and a damp rag when you've used epoxy.

 

[SGK]

"Factory stained finish" (albeit with a little electrical tape residue):




Versus traditional oil finish with homemade red oil and slacum:




Was it worth the effort? That's a very personal question. It shoots exactly as before but I enjoyed the project and like the outcome.

 

[COLT45SA]

"Factory stained finish" (albeit with a little electrical tape residue):

View attachment 1672793


Versus traditional oil finish with homemade red oil and slacum:

View attachment 1672797


Was it worth the effort? That's a very personal question. It shoots exactly as before but I enjoyed the project and like the outcome.

Seem like everyone is pleased with his own variation, and that's good after the time they've invested in the work they've put into it. I've never used slacum, just more coats with each being slightly less diluted with turpentine. Old fashion BLO using in the traditional method, and although bot judged by any panel of experts, mine pleases me no end~!!

 

[mauser284]

Some of you may want to cover your ears.

My cheat for wood filling is epoxy.
Use alcohol based dye to get the stock the right color. Warm the stock and the low viscosity epoxy beforehand and apply generously. Wipe of excess after it soaks in, but before it cures.
Lightly sand any defects after a good long cure(no it does NOT sand down easily, that's the whole point),then proceed with whatever oil, clearcoat, etc, etc. Or use another coat or two of epoxy to build a thin film, cutting back between coats. I use steel wool and paste wax at the end to give a nice matte "hand-rubbed oil" look. I'm not going to lie and say that it slaps on easy like Tru Oil, but when you're done it is the toughest finish I've ever used. Polyurethane is a delicate flower in comparison.
I use System 3 Clearcoat.

I have used Spar Varnish to fill and sand back before but never epoxy. You would almost want to use power tools with it. Hand sanding back would be like shaping granite with bronze age tools!

I am not at all an expert on epoxy outside of using it to hold things like aircraft and cars together. Is it possible to do an epoxy stock that does not look like that thick liquid look of 1990's onward Remington wood stocks? Those always reminded me of a freshly urathaned roller skating rink. Those finishes always looked too thick and strange in how the light hit and reflected back like the luminosity was off for something so clear.

I would have to experiment a lot before I would feel comfortable applying epoxy to a decent piece of wood. I bet it would work great thought o fill the grain and would be super durable!

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

Yeah try fixing a dent with a domestic iron and a damp rag when you've used epoxy.

I don't find it difficult to repair at all.
It won't take dings and scratches as easily as softer finishes.

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

I have used Spar Varnish to fill and sand back before but never epoxy. You would almost want to use power tools with it. Hand sanding back would be like shaping granite with bronze age tools!

I am not at all an expert on epoxy outside of using it to hold things like aircraft and cars together. Is it possible to do an epoxy stock that does not look like that thick liquid look of 1990's onward Remington wood stocks? Those always reminded me of a freshly urathaned roller skating rink. Those finishes always looked too thick and strange in how the light hit and reflected back like the luminosity was off for something so clear.

I would have to experiment a lot before I would feel comfortable applying epoxy to a decent piece of wood. I bet it would work great thought o fill the grain and would be super durable!

It is tough to sand out, and the final coat has to be block sanded with 800 grit or higher before switching to 0000 steel wool. It won't look glossy unless you leave it unsanded or, heaven forbid, polish the final coat with rubbing compound.
I use it for the toughness of the finished product, not for the ease of application.

 

[epc308]

It’s great and it dries quickly. Sand in 5 minutes. They have different colors. I use a reddish color. Think it’s Cherry.
View attachment 1671551

We visited a couple years ago about Famowood. I bought some but could never get it on/in the wood before it flash dried. I tried a variety of the usual solvents to extend working life as theirs doesn't exist, but still had zero luck.

 

[joshb]

We visited a couple years ago about Famowood. I bought some but could never get it on/in the wood before it flash dried. I tried a variety of the usual solvents to extend working life as theirs doesn't exist, but still had zero luck.

 

[mauser284]

So this is my factroy seond stock. In these images I have wetted the stock with IP alcohol. When next I show it it will have a coat of my red oil on it.

I have applied my red oil just now. I will be out of town Monday and part of Tuesday having fun time with my wife near Detroit!

The stock still has a lot of flaws in it. I wanted to get my oil on it though sooner rather than latter. Again what you are seeing is the factory second stock with IP alcohol on it not finish or oil. This is natural wood colour no stain applied.

The next oil I upload will be Tung Oil, Mineral Spirits, and Alkanet root.

I thought I was happy with the stock but the cotton lint free rags revealed many errors on my part.

 

[mauser284]

I almost left this stock alone. I like the colour but I really wanted to show my red oil and it's effect/affect. This is the only piece of Walnut I currently have on hand that has enough figure to demonstrate the red oil on.

Some of you will be amazed and some disapointed. Keep in mind my red oil took week to make.


I put 1 coat of oil until it stoped sucking up oil mixture. Once it stopped sucking up oil I waited an hour and applied a second coat. I let another hour pass wiped any excess off and left it alone. This was Sunday night. I intend to take images again Tuesday when I get home.

 

[KMW 1954]

Have been following this thread intently as I am preparing to work my second Richards Microfit Walnut stock. I t was just ordered last week.

I am replying because I just located a business right here in Wisconsin that is strictly woodworking and they happen to stock this Alkanet Root in a C/S medium and not a powder. I will be making contact later this afternoon! Very excited to try this!

 

[mauser284]

Have been following this thread intently as I am preparing to work my second Richards Microfit Walnut stock. I t was just ordered last week.

I am replying because I just located a business right here in Wisconsin that is strictly woodworking and they happen to stock this Alkanet Root in a C/S medium and not a powder. I will be making contact later this afternoon! Very excited to try this!

Normaly people do not use the powdered form of Alkanet root in gun making normaly they use the chips. I could not find the chips initially but was able to find the powder and it was a fantstic price as well. It was on Amazon so not only was the price good but it was next day delivery for me. I did not care that it was organic and all that. I found places online that had the chips but they wanted a lot more for a lot less and the shipping was stupid high to the point it would have cost me like 4X as much or more. In decades past I have used the chips this was the first time I used the powder. It was fast and was not a problem to filter at all.

I just made it home from Detroit after spending Monday and part of Tuesday there with the wife having fun! It was a mini-getaway. I75 is such a mess with detours and construction work.

I think the key to speeding up the process might be the fact that I had diluted my 100% Pure Tung oil 50/50 with Oderless Mineral Spirits to thin it for staining and sealing. Thinning it increases pentration and knocks the sheen down a lot. I think the solvent also worked in this case to speed up how quickly the colour or color was extracted from the Alkanet root and the fact that it was powder form mights have speed things up as well. Since the most traditional recipe is just Boiled Linseed Oil and Alkanet root chips in a container tucked away for 6 months I think my 1 week extraction was a huge improvment. I think it was largely done by day 3 to be honest. Every time I went to the kitchen to get something to eat or drink I gave the mixture a shake. Nothing fancy just a quick shake.

If you went with Boiled Linseed Oil you would not need to thin it 50/50 like with Tung Oil but I would still try 70/30 BLO/Oderless Mineral Spirits. I think the solvent greatly speeds up the extraction process.

Do not do this with all of your oil. No matter if you are using Tung or BLO you would want to have some un-thinned oil for later coats and such. You would also want to have some clear to finish with. So plan ahead!

 

[mauser284]

I just went down to my basement and retrived the stock. It is still rather damp so it will likely not photograph well yet but still took some pictures so you can see the change in colour. They seem to be lost in cyberspace will upload them as soon as they show up!

 

[KMW 1954]

This will be my first attempt at dyeing. I have seen powder and this C/S (cut and shift), so just how large these pcs are I don't know.

I have thought about using a 70/30 or 64/40 mix to render it down. Have used 60/30/10 BLO/MS/Spar varnish to treat plywood for boat decking and transom replacement..

As a final finish I haven't decided if I will use Tru Oil or the Danish Oil.

Eager to see your pictures!

 

[mauser284]

For some reeason when I try to send pictures from my phone to my email it is not going through. I have done this a million times not sure what is wrong.

So long story short after having made Red Oil with BLO and Tung Oil I would recomend sticking to BLO. The dry time with the Tung Oil is very very slow. Even taking into account the improved water resistance and the bette resistance to mold I am not sure the juice is worth the squeeze. That said I am glad I tried it since we learn almost nothing by just doing what has been done before!

Everything above said my 50/50 tung oil oderless mineral spirits with Alkanet root powder produced a stain that in one week is darker than the traditional method after 6+ months. In fact it is too good at staining and pentrates to deeply and too completly.

 

[KMW 1954]

Thanks? I will patiently wait for pictures. Will be calling the vendor this week for the root and the Richards stock will not arrive until about Sept.

This is a Richards Field Trekker I did with Tru-Oil. BTW that was also just a cheap Economy Grade Walnut.