Red oil version for walnut stocks -- Similar to Holland & Holland

[Jonnyofalltrades]

Some of you may want to cover your ears.

My cheat for wood filling is epoxy.
Use alcohol based dye to get the stock the right color. Warm the stock and the low viscosity epoxy beforehand and apply generously. Wipe of excess after it soaks in, but before it cures.
Lightly sand any defects after a good long cure(no it does NOT sand down easily, that's the whole point),then proceed with whatever oil, clearcoat, etc, etc. Or use another coat or two of epoxy to build a thin film, cutting back between coats. I use steel wool and paste wax at the end to give a nice matte "hand-rubbed oil" look. I'm not going to lie and say that it slaps on easy like Tru Oil, but when you're done it is the toughest finish I've ever used. Polyurethane is a delicate flower in comparison.
I use System 3 Clearcoat.

 

[SGK]

Yeah try fixing a dent with a domestic iron and a damp rag when you've used epoxy.

 

[SGK]

"Factory stained finish" (albeit with a little electrical tape residue):




Versus traditional oil finish with homemade red oil and slacum:




Was it worth the effort? That's a very personal question. It shoots exactly as before but I enjoyed the project and like the outcome.

 

[COLT45SA]

"Factory stained finish" (albeit with a little electrical tape residue):

View attachment 1672793


Versus traditional oil finish with homemade red oil and slacum:

View attachment 1672797


Was it worth the effort? That's a very personal question. It shoots exactly as before but I enjoyed the project and like the outcome.

Seem like everyone is pleased with his own variation, and that's good after the time they've invested in the work they've put into it. I've never used slacum, just more coats with each being slightly less diluted with turpentine. Old fashion BLO using in the traditional method, and although bot judged by any panel of experts, mine pleases me no end~!!

 

[mauser284]

Some of you may want to cover your ears.

My cheat for wood filling is epoxy.
Use alcohol based dye to get the stock the right color. Warm the stock and the low viscosity epoxy beforehand and apply generously. Wipe of excess after it soaks in, but before it cures.
Lightly sand any defects after a good long cure(no it does NOT sand down easily, that's the whole point),then proceed with whatever oil, clearcoat, etc, etc. Or use another coat or two of epoxy to build a thin film, cutting back between coats. I use steel wool and paste wax at the end to give a nice matte "hand-rubbed oil" look. I'm not going to lie and say that it slaps on easy like Tru Oil, but when you're done it is the toughest finish I've ever used. Polyurethane is a delicate flower in comparison.
I use System 3 Clearcoat.

I have used Spar Varnish to fill and sand back before but never epoxy. You would almost want to use power tools with it. Hand sanding back would be like shaping granite with bronze age tools!

I am not at all an expert on epoxy outside of using it to hold things like aircraft and cars together. Is it possible to do an epoxy stock that does not look like that thick liquid look of 1990's onward Remington wood stocks? Those always reminded me of a freshly urathaned roller skating rink. Those finishes always looked too thick and strange in how the light hit and reflected back like the luminosity was off for something so clear.

I would have to experiment a lot before I would feel comfortable applying epoxy to a decent piece of wood. I bet it would work great thought o fill the grain and would be super durable!