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Recoil lug bedding question

DShortt

DShortt

Gold $$ Contributor
Question about bedding the recoil lug.

Is it best practice to leave both sides of the recoil lug bedded tight and only relieve the sides/bottom with tape depending on shape of the lug or does the front of the lug need to be taped off for relief also?

Why or why not?

Thanks for looking.
 
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I tape 1 layer to the sides and front, and 3 layers to bottom on a typical R700 lug.
This provides just enough clearance to remove the action. I measure the lug with a caliper to make sure the sides don't have a taper (or at least has taper the right way) so as to make it impossible to remove once bedded
 
I use .010 thick tape and do the sides, bottom and front if the recoil lug. Depending on the application, I'll use 1 or 2 layers of tape. The only load bearing surface should be the rear of the lug.

The only time to bed the bottom of the lug tight is when an action screw comes into the bottom of the recoil lug (Ruger 77s, some Sako's, etc.).

Good shootin' -Al
 
Lately, I have been only taping the sides and bottom with some very good results. Whatever you do, it needs to be stress free. Many ways to do this job with good results. My thinking is that, for every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. Just something to think about.
Paul
 
My preference and method is a little different but both will work. Actually prefer full contact while the bedding cures. When I pull the barreled action out, I then take a quick cut from the bottom of the lug in a mill. I take at least .010 off to prevent any sliver that might get accidentally trapped under the lug when re-assembling it, from putting the action under any stress from it. I don't see a downside to otherwise full contact with the lug. Quick, easy and I don't have to fool with tape staying put or getting it all picked out of the bedding when cured. Leave a speck and you defeat the purpose of having clearance. It works for me. Not saying it's right or wrong.
 
AlNyhus said:
Some tapes can be a struggle, for sure. I've been 'testing' adhesive backed aluminum furnace tape on a few lately.
Click to expand...
I just bought a roll of that for sighting in thermal optics. I just measured what I have and the thickness is 0.003"
I may try that on the next one I bed!
 
The more i use the aluminum tape, the more I like it. An Xacto knife cuts it very cleanly. 3M makes some .006 thick, normally it's about .004. They specify the thickness in mils. Seems to measure a bit thicker by micrometer than the spec, usually. Two layers of the .006 thick is what I've been using.

I love the .010 vinyl tape for the thickness but sometimes it's just too pliable if cutting lots of angles and corners. I spent an hour the other day taping up a Model 70 only to rip it all off and start over.
 
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AlNyhus said:
The more i use the aluminum tape, the more I like it. An Xacto knife cuts it very cleanly. 3M makes some that .006 thick, normally it's about .004. They specify the thickness in mils. Seems to measure a bit thicker by micrometer than the spec, usually. Two layers of the .006 thick is what I've been using.

I love the .010 vinyl tape for the thickness but sometimes it's just too pliable if cutting lots of angles and corners. I spent an hour the other day taping up a Model 70 only to rip it all off and start over.
Click to expand...
Ya had better, "get that one done right"!:eek:RG
;)
 
AlNyhus said:
The more i use the aluminum tape, the more I like it. An Xacto knife cuts it very cleanly. 3M makes some that .006 thick, normally it's about .004. They specify the thickness in mils. Seems to measure a bit thicker by micrometer than the spec, usually. Two layers of the .006 thick is what I've been using.
Click to expand...

What's the best way to cut the radius in the tape to match the barrel?
 
I have some short pieces of PVC that I've turned down to various barrel shank dimensions...1.250, 1.200, etc. Just place the correct one on a piece of tape and cut around it. Then fold the sides of the tape around the sides of the recoil lug and trim it. I also use some pieces of aluminum round that I've cut a recess in one side, then tapered that out to a sharp edge....think of it as a round punch. Just lay the 'punch' on a piece of tape on something solid and give it a whack with a hammer. Punches a nice clean hole.

If the barrel is off, I tape the front of the action and lug, then cut open the the tape and screw the barrel on.

For what it's worth. -Al
 
Tucker65 said:
What's the best way to cut the radius in the tape to match the barrel?
Click to expand...
Keep a bunch of stubs from the back side of barrels in your bedding box. 3 or 4 different diameters will cover most of what you will run into. Place your masking tape over 1/2 to 2/3rds of the stub and tap it out with a small hammer. Just like making a gasket for something on your car.
 
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