Bedding side of recoil lug.

[Taxman1002587]

Why -- especially on a Savage -- do they recommend that you tape the sides of the recoil lug before
glass bedding. On a Savage the lug tapers towards the bottom so it would be difficult for the bedding to result in a mechanical lock. If you did not tape the sides then the bedding would be right against the sides of the lug and would/could/should help/or support the action against torque/twist.

 

[KevinCram]

The reason for taping the sides is for easier removal of barreled action from stock. All you need to contact perfectly is the rear of the lug. It is especially best to have a slight clearance under the lug, so as when tightenening the action down you are drawing down on the action and not bottoming out on the lug and flexing the action. I wrap 2 layers of electrical tape around the the perimeter of the lug and then trim with a razor blade. Very easy to remove action from bedding, and guaranteed no bottoming out on the lug. A stress free bed.

 

[mysticplayer]

I feel that bedding all sides of the lug, including the front,as much as possible) is critical to accuracy.

Yes, the savage lug has quite a taper so will not 'lock' into the bedding. That taper also means that if there is space, it can rock from side to side.

I feel that a recoil lug has to limit action movement both in forward/back,important if you use muzzle brakes) and roll. The action is round so will want to roll/torque during recoil. Using the action screws to hold in place is not condusive to long term accuracy.

When I do a bedding properly, the action and lug will bottom fully in the inletting at the same time. The action screws do nothing more then hold action and stock together. If the action screws have to pull the action into the bedding, something is wrong and usually indicates that the bedding is too tight due to shrinkage.

I feel that an action should fall into the bedding with a solid clunk. It should not move in any direction. It should feel like a solid piece and rigid enough to shoot as is,no action screws - although that is not recommended). It will not flex when the action screws are snugged up.

If done properly, the action should also come out of the stock with reasonable force. It shouldn't just fall out as this means there is alot of clearance thus slop.

An interference fit.

Any slop in the bedding means the action screws have to do all the work of holding that action in place. This rarely works out and flyers are the norm. Needing gorilla torque to secure the action screws is a clear sign that bedding is poor.

Seems to work for me.

Jerry

 

[Taxman1002587]

Thanks MysticPlayer-- If I were to mill a square slot .010 deep by .125 wide and three inches long in the bottom of the action then fill each end with a little clay and fully bed the entire action including fully bedding the recoil lug,front/back both sides and bottom -- no tape anywhere)and bed the barrel nut would the effort would be worth it? What I'm really wondering is looking at the recoil lug I can now see where bedding it all the way around will certainly help but I wonder if it will completely eliminate the torque issue. I not sure how much torque occurs when a rifle fires but can appreciate how much torque occurs when I work the bolt handle.

Thanks for the tip about how to bed with a muzzle brake.

I realize that milling the slot may weaken the action somewhat.

 

[mysticplayer]

I would say, don't bother. I have bedded the full length of the action and the way I described and can see no difference on paper.

As long as the action is supported and cannot wiggle around, good enough. Most of the bedding jobs I have seen were not 'flat' and the action could wiggle around. Flyers were the norm.

I have bedded under the barrel nut and without depending on the inletting of the stocks. Again, no difference unless the barrel is very long and heavy. A 26" varmint barrel is not considered heavy.

Let us know how your experiments go.

Jerry

 

[jisco]

Taxman, I have a new savage 11G and am wandering the same thing as you but I'm in no hurry as I only want to do the bedding job once.
I read the replies you received and they made sense.

jisco
Jackson, OH.

 

[Preacher]

Any one that will not fully bed a recoil lug will never know how good that gun will shoot. I even wonder about not bedding under the lug because if it needs room it probably is not bedded stress free in the first place and will bow one way or the other.
This is of course using custom recoil lugs with a good taper to them like the Holland lugs that are surface ground flat, unlike some of the remington lugs that are stamped out and look pretty scarey on the sides.......