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rechambering

Set the barrel up with a range rod with zero runout , chamber then check runout and have two to three thousands, check with range rod shows the same runout. Chamber looks good, marks bullet evenly, I am using a bald eagle to push and have a flosh system. Is the reamer following the bore or am I doing something wrong.
 
Just for the hell of it, dial your barrel in dead 0 then pull your "range rod" out turn it a half turn & stick it back in and see if your still dialed in. Bet yer not!
 
Sounds like your barrel is slipping in the chuck. Do u use light jaw pressure? I can't say much for the bald eagle i don't use one. .002 is way out.
 
I know the barrel is not slipping, but I thought I might be feeding the reamer too fast. I don't see how you can cut a dead zero chamber with the bald eagle with so much movement going on. What style holder is better. Thanks
 
I like my jgs tool. Its a true holder where yours is a pusher. I like mine and it has worked well for me.
 
The Bald Eagle pusher is not the problem. If the reamer is moving around it has to be your setup. Did you remove all of your old chamber?
Butch
 
New barrel, could I be cutting too fast . I checked my tailstock for alignment, it was out a little but I haven't tried it yet
 
double g said:
New barrel, could I be cutting too fast . I checked my tailstock for alignment, it was out a little but I haven't tried it yet
You mentioned the flush system, what kind of fluid are you using? RPM?
Also, how are you checking the runout, last word gauge?

Thanks,
JS
 
No i don't drill or bore , 124 rpm , Schaeffers honing and maching oil high suphur, indicator off table. What is the best method of holding the bald eagle.
 
DoubleG
Everybody has a pet way to indicate. I drill and indicate the throat. I have an indicator with a small body and short probe that will reach in. After indicating the throat area I taper bore to just .050 of the shoulder. I push the reamer with a flat surface in the tail stock. My reamer holder is like a Bald Eagle, just one I made.
Butch
 
I slowed down to 90 rpm and slowed down the push speed and my chamber runout dropped down to 3/4 thousands, so far that has been my best. Thanks
 
I'm not too sure how the Bald Eagle holder is made, but several of the holders sold are more like pivot points more than floating surfaces. Like Butch, I made my own that incorporates two well lubricated flat surfaces that compensate for the difference in height of the tail stock to the chuck. The drift int the tail stock can always be adjusted to indicate true to the centerline of the spindle. I have a feeling that you may not have tailstock indicated lateraly, could that be a possibility or have you already eliminated that variable?

ps, I think that the JGS reamer holder is about the best commercially made one for the $. Just my opinion...

Thanks,
JS
 
A question I would like to ask. Are you taking the load off your spindel bearings between dialing in, reaming and reindicating?

Nat Lambeth
 
Pictured below is my version of the Bald Eagle.
wswly8.jpg

If you see the pusher is flat. If your tailstock is off a little it doesn't matter, it is just pushing. If you drill, indicate the throat, and prebore to that indicated point your reamer will ream coaxial to your lathe spindle bearings.
Butch
 
I set the tailstock lateraly, because it was out before and sure it was causing me some problems . I am not sure what you mean by the preload on spindel bearings. Thanks
 
Boy double g, that's tough one. It sure would be hard to diagnose accurately without seeing with your own eyes. I sure hope you get it figured out.

JS
 

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