If the original chamber is directly in line with the bore the pilot needn't be in the bore. This rarely happens with a 'factory 'barrel. IF the chamber is not directly in line with the bore, enough of the old chamber will have to be removed so that what remains (of the old chamber) can be 'trued with a boring bar before chambering with the new reamer can begin. You can not count on the pilot alone to guide the reamer in this instance.I have a barrel chambered in 7wsm. I was thinking about rechambering to 7saum. How much barrel needs removed? I am no gunsmith but would assume the pilot needs to find home before the reamer contacts the chamber, or does it?
Even if the original chamber is inline with the bore how do you keep the reamer running true until the pilot gets into the bore? I'm just trying to learn and hope the OP would want to know this to.If the original chamber is directly in line with the bore the pilot needn't be in the bore. This rarely happens with a 'factory 'barrel. IF the chamber is not directly in line with the bore, enough of the old chamber will have to be removed so that what remains (of the old chamber) can be 'trued with a boring bar before chambering with the new reamer can begin. You can not count on the pilot alone to guide the reamer in this instance.
Ok that makes sense, I guess I just have had trouble grasping if a person is using a floating reamer holder how it would work. I had visions of the reamer going in and the pilot not lining up with the bore and not allowing you to ream more and mabie running into the end of the bore and causing damage. You say if everything is concentric including an old chamber or hole then the reamer will follow close enough that the pilot will lineup and go into the bore no problem right? Yippee thanks--What would you suggest the OP do cut chamber length off or just enough to bore for the new caliber?The reamer naturally wants to cut in line with the spindle of the lathe, it can be influenced by an existing hole though. If you need a pilot to keep your reamer centered your setup is no good. The bore of the barrel, any old chamber or prebore, and the reamer all need to be concentric to the spindle of the lathe. Then you can throw the bushing in the trash.
ThanksShortgrass said it well. I would probably cut off the tenon, indicate the barrel, and lightly bore the remaining chamber to true it to the spindle. Then you can then chamber as normal.
I agree I think I'd try it but the OP doesn't say what action the barrel came off of and what action he wants to put it on so that would determine what you'd have to do to make it work right?If it was me, and the 7mm WSM was a 'shooter' to begin with, I wouldn't be thinking of re-chambering to SAUM. There's just not enough to be gained (except maybe the search for brass!).
Sounds like you've got your thinking strait on this. I wouldn't pay that for just the barrel but with the machining free and not having to buy the reamer--sounds like great deal . I like the 7saum to and think I will chamber one for it this year. I think these guys answered your question. On the 6.5. Yeah I have trouble getting one gun project done before starting another. Hope it works out well for youThe original action action was a short action defiance. I will be putting it on a long Acton remmy. I figured as long as we were gunna be setting the barrel up in a lathe to fit oit. I might as well chamber it to a saum to avoid brass availability issues, plus i dig the saum case. My friend already has the reamer so not a big deal. It is a 25" varmint contour with a brake, maybe 200 rds down tube. Gunna get it for 250 bucks and all machining free. But now I can't stop thinking about a 6.5 saum.
I didnt notice the part about the brake so that is a good deal. Im just in a different situation in that Im 60 and I dont know how many shots I have left so I wont spend my time on a used barrel unless its really cheap. You do know the 7saum uses a different size boltface than a 30-06 sized boltface right? .532 versus .473-- It sounds in your post above like you are going to use an action that was a 243. That would have the .473 boltface and be a short action. The bolt face can be machined to accept the larger rim dia.Thanks hoz, I don't think 250 is bad for the limited rounds and the brake. He is in that barrel over 500 bucks. I shot it as a wsm and it was impressive. He was single loading it, because of coal in short action and that's why he took it apart. It is now a 6xc. I'm sure I will be doing the machining, but he has the lathe and all, but still, I don't mind. I like the machining,but personally have not rechambered anything, hence, this thread. I had a 243 with a remage barrel on that action. I took apart my 22-250 which was a remmy sa, and put the 243 barrel on it. So i have the action, stock, trigger , bottom metal... everything besides brass for the build.... 250 bucks sounds cheap for a new gun. I hope it is a shooter, but for the $ it's worth it to me.
I appreciate the help and responses, and I will let u know how it turns out
Ok so did you decide how you will rechamber it. Just cut the threads off or cut the length of the old chamber off?Yup, I'm aware. I originally bought that action/rifle new as a 7mm mag. It has been a 7-08, 7mag, 270 and now .....who knows. So anyways I have both bolts for that action.maybe I should get the small....make a long action .204!!!???![]()
Ok report to us how it works outNot sure yet I guess, cutting the length of the old chamber might lose too much barrel. I'm thinking knock the threads off and Givin er hell