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Reattaching a Krieger barrel to a Rem 700 receiver - by hand?

I put a barrel vise on the barrel, leave the action in the stock, and give the vise a couple of smacks with the ratchet used to tighten the nuts. Scientific? No. Accurately torqued? Also no. But the rifle generally shoots under a quarter of an inch at 100 yds (a week ago, had 2 out of 10 groups under a tenth, 5 shot groups.) Seems to do well by me. Same technique to break it loose when changing barrels.
 
Common bolts hold by streching. The torque is even measured by checking the amount of stretch. You do not want to stretch the receiver or barrel. 100 pounds is the most I ever go. 50 is fine for most guns.
When possible bolt tightening accurately is by measuring bolt stretch. Unfortunately it is not always possible. Therefore knowing the correct torque, and knowing the correct reduction required by a particular lube is paramount.
Those numbers are computed by engineers or metallurgists. Not by what ‘feels’ good.
Some bolts (not barrels) are for a one time use only.
One example would be some automotive cylinder head bolts. Some get tightened to a specific torque and then turned 90° more.
 
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Given the action has been trued up, putting 50 ft lbs of torque on it is a common amount.

If you aren’t going to wait, and we know you aren’t, 50 ft lbs is pretty easy to hold for. Take an 30” section of 2x6 Douglas fir board and use a hole saw to make a 1-1/4” cross hole 6” from one end for the barrel and a 7/16” hole on each side through the full 5-1/2” depth about 3/4” away from the big cross hole. Split length ways along the grain removing 1/4” of wood, use 3/8” allthread, long coupler nuts or grade 5 or 8 nuts, and big 1/4” thick washers from the electrical isle at Home Depot to clamp tight. Degrease and wrap barrel with drywall tape to protect the finish. Repeat for front of the action with a 1-3/8” hole. 50 ft lbs is the same as a downward pressure of 25 lbs on the 2’ lever you just made.

That will easily hold 50 ftlbs without slipping and scratching the finish, but only if it’s tightened securely and the hole is uniform. Having said that, 25% of people will get it right, 25% won’t tighten enough and it slips, 25% won’t take out the full 1/4” strip and it slips, and 25% will overtighten and strip the nuts.

With most things in life a 25% success rate is not great, so my ability to teach is greatly in doubt before you’ve even tried this, so it’s worth what you paid.

Avoid the temptation to use two strap wrenches from the plumbing isle - they may get you the torque, but they may leave marks because of the way a lot of rubbing pressure is placed on a small section of steel as it’s tightened and stretched. Having said that, many savage nuts have been torqued with those, but not by me.
I just use a pipe wrench lol
 
It might work but I prefer my barrels and actions to wear a presentable finish. Rather than look like a teenager who knows no better has been at it with slip joint pliers and a pipe wrench.

In one of his pistolsmithing books George Nonte has a big screwdriver run through a revolver frame to remove/install a pistol barrel. Oy!

No, thanks. I'm good.
 
To be clear, I’m not using a pipe wrench on a beautiful blued hunting rifle. I’m using it on my stainless BR barrels which are burned out in 9 months and replaced with a new one.
 
people cringe, but a pipe wrench doesn’t slip and doesn’t need rosin or any extra steps. The only cost is a little marring to the barrel finish. I have frequently and unrepentantly used a pipe wrench to hold the barrel. A properly fit action wrench and large torque wrench set to 50 ft.lbs. is used for tightening.
I use them mostly to take OFF barrels because its quick--i was teasing about putting them on---but the scratches do not bother me one bit, and i do have a couple that i put on with them. you are correct, it doesnt slip
 
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Actually it isn't. Look up the torque spec for the thread diameter and pitch for a common bolt that size.
The barrel is not a bolt (fastener) A bolt is. Actually a 1” in diameter bolt is a serious fastener.
Can’t come up with a good example but a bolt 1.4 inches in diameter ( in one application I am familiar with) requires 360 lbsft of torque.
 
That would be impossible for me to do. Not physically but mentally.
I literally have used an old rigid pipe vise for removing bbls for years. Of course I made several brass and aluminum bushings that actually contact the bbl but if I come across a really tough one to get off...and the old bbl is of no value, I simply remove the bushings and that sucker has never failed yet to get one off like that. Gun plumber, for sure! Lol! It actually works very well, fwiw.
 
I literally have used an old rigid pipe vise for removing bbls for years. Of course I made several brass and aluminum bushings that actually contact the bbl but if I come across a really tough one to get off...and the old bbl is of no value, I simply remove the bushings and that sucker has never failed yet to get one off like that. Gun plumber, for sure! Lol! It actually works very well, fwiw.
me too
 

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