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It’s true that chambering has been discussed before but this is a discussion board not a library. It has all been discussed before somewhere but not by the OP. I don’t know how many times I’ve discussed the same topics and told the same tired stories but my friends still listen and I listen to theirs. Never know when some new sliver of knowledge will spring forth. Just because they remake a movie doesn’t mean it’s a stale tired story. It’s new to all who never saw the original. Heck , often it’s all new because they weren’t even born when the original was made. Same here. It’s a new topic for the OP.Just do a search in the gunsmithing section. Chambering has been discussed to death!
At the very top of the "Advanced Gunsmithing & Engineering" page, there's a 130 page PDF that is about chambering. A very good selection of material written by gunsmiths. If you use this site like a library, there is loads of info available at your finger tips.
If you are going to use a drill bit, it needs to be new or ground on a precision drill grinder. Drill under sized enough that you can make a pass or 2 with a boring bar, preferably set with the taper the same as is on the cartridge you intend to chamber. But, it will work if you bore a straight hole. Check your 'dial-in' before boring. Bore under size and let the finish chambering reamer do the clean-up, shoulder, neck and throat. It never hurts to check and double check your set-up. If the barrel slips from drilling, the set-up isn't rigid enough to ream IMO. I leave a minimum of .030" bored hole diameter for the reamer to cut. But, do it any way you want! If ya' screw up, figure out why and how (you screwed-up)! With a bit more than 46yrs of machining experience I approach chambering as a delicate machining op that needs to be 'dead on". There's no real 'magic' to it, just attention to detail.Look into using a drill to open up the body instead of a roughing reamer, and then using the finish reamer to go from there... make sure you are dialed in before you drill it, and your drill is smaller than the shoulder, and you don’t drill down all the way to the shoulder... and redial in off the bore (not lands) in the neck area before you start with the finish reamer.
It is just bore or drill. There is absolutely no reason for wasting 3 spaces in adding" pre" to most any word. Prebaked ham any different than a baked ham?There is a reason it is called "prebore" instead of "predrill".
You just wasted an entire paragraph....It is just bore or drill. There is absolutely no reason for wasting 3 spaces in adding" pre" to most any word. Prebaked ham any different than a baked ham?
Prefinished? Geez.
S
How bout 2 in 1? You cant put another something in the jug where 1 already isIt is just bore or drill. There is absolutely no reason for wasting 3 spaces in adding" pre" to most any word. Prebaked ham any different than a baked ham?
Prefinished? Geez.
S
Then there's the ever popular "Hot Water Heater."How bout 2 in 1? You cant put another something in the jug where 1 already is
Atm machineThen there's the ever popular "Hot Water Heater."
Why do I need to indicate the muzzle end of the barrel ? The bore isn’t straight. How about zeroing out under the center of the chamber end spider/chuck and just forward of where the lead will end. That way your bullet enters the bore strait so it can follow the crooked spiraling bore ? Thead the tennon and bore the chamber in alignment with the bore where the bullet enters the barrel is my understanding of best practice.Step 2. Indicate both ends of the barrel.