Real world question on 6.5 Creedmore vs 6.5x47L

[sewwhat89]

I have a Rem 700SA that needs new barrel. I want to go with one of these or a 260. Here's the issue. I want to use a dbm or a single shot. With the short action, can I eject a 260 loaded with 130/140 VLDs? Or if using the Creedmore, is the brass worth the trouble over Lapua brass for the others?

Is there discernible gain to any of these or is it personal preference. The gun will wear a 28" barrel. All shooting will be from benchrest or bipod, more paper punching but also deer gun.

 

[soldierofchrist]

The Creedmore would allow you to use the magazine with the heavier bullets as would the 6.5X47L. The 260 will have a pretty long overall length that is not magazine friendly.

 

[brian427cobra]

I shoot in Practical/Tactical matches with a 260, a 139 Scenar seated at the lands after 1450 rounds is still less than 2.820 COAL, accuracy is great, my main reason for going 260 is brass, single source turns me off, with 260 I can buy Rem, Nosler, and soon Lapua, but I mostly shoot Win 7-08 necked down, 7-08 brass is cheap and easy to find, shoots great after prep, and when I leave it on the ground at a match I'm not out a dollar.

 

[Erik Cortina]

... my main reason for going 260 is brass, single source turns me off, with 260 I can buy Rem, Nosler, and soon Lapua, but I mostly shoot Win 7-08 necked down, 7-08 brass is cheap and easy to find, shoots great after prep, and when I leave it on the ground at a match I'm not out a dollar.

That statement may hold true for the Creedmore, but for the 6.5x47 Lapua I don't think it's an issue, since the only source of brass is the best source!

and when I leave it on the ground at a match I'm not out a dollar.

It's not so much the price of the brass that I have ever been concerned with, but after sorting, neck turning, fireforming, massaging, serenading, and all the other things we do to our brass I would hate to leave any brand of brass on the ground, but I understand you and I play a different game, I don't "run and gun"

To get back on track, the 6.5x47 Lapua will give you the same performance as the 6.5 CM, but with less powder, it is more magazine friendly with heavy bullets, and better brass.

 

[Laurie]

I have a Rem 700SA that needs new barrel. [Sewwhat89]

If you choose 6.5X47L with its small rifle primer, you'll almost certainly need the bolt face bushed to avoid serious primer cratering, even blanking before you get to maximum loads and full MVs. In my experience, this cartridge needs full-house loads to perform well, so this is a potentially serious disadvantage. You can of course have the work done, but should factor the cost in alongside that of rebarrelling.

This isn't an issue with either .260 rem or 6.5mm Hornady CM with their large primers. I can see advantages / disadvantages with both cartridges. There really isn't a lot between them MV or accuracy-wise. The recent addition of .260R to the Lapua range might tip it that way if you want strongest and best quality brass out of the box and are willing to pay for it. Personally, I like the look of the Hornady design, but as we say in the UK, it's six of one and half dozen of the other between the two designs (Ford v Chevy is the US equivalent I believe).

 

[offgrid]

Ya', you'll be able to eject a loaded 260 round with the 130/140 vld's. The OAL length should be around 2.9. You will have to notch your feed-ramp and use this mag http://www.alphaindmfg.com./store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=51 or remove the front plate from a AI mag to allow a longer OAL. I'm loading 130VLD's at 2.915 with my 6.5CM on a RemSA, no problems ejecting a loaded round.

As far as the three caliber, flip a coin.

 

[Erik Cortina]

If you choose 6.5X47L with its small rifle primer, you'll almost certainly need the bolt face bushed to avoid serious primer cratering, even blanking before you get to maximum loads and full MVs. In my experience, this cartridge needs full-house loads to perform well, so this is a potentially serious disadvantage. You can of course have the work done, but should factor the cost in alongside that of rebarrelling.

This isn't an issue with either .260 rem or 6.5mm Hornady CM with their large primers. I can see advantages / disadvantages with both cartridges. There really isn't a lot between them MV or accuracy-wise. The recent addition of .260R to the Lapua range might tip it that way if you want strongest and best quality brass out of the box and are willing to pay for it. Personally, I like the look of the Hornady design, but as we say in the UK, it's six of one and half dozen of the other between the two designs (Ford v Chevy is the US equivalent I believe).

I have mild loads that shoot great in my hunting 6.5x47 Lapua, so I don't think that statement is 100% accurate, at least not for every gun. But what's the point if you can't push it as fast as possible with great accuracy? So I also agree about getting your bolt face bushed to get maximum potential.

 

[Brian_K]

If you choose 6.5X47L with its small rifle primer, you'll almost certainly need the bolt face bushed to avoid serious primer cratering, even blanking before you get to maximum loads and full MVs. In my experience, this cartridge needs full-house loads to perform well, so this is a potentially serious disadvantage. You can of course have the work done, but should factor the cost in alongside that of rebarrelling.

This isn't an issue with either .260 rem or 6.5mm Hornady CM with their large primers. I can see advantages / disadvantages with both cartridges. There really isn't a lot between them MV or accuracy-wise. The recent addition of .260R to the Lapua range might tip it that way if you want strongest and best quality brass out of the box and are willing to pay for it. Personally, I like the look of the Hornady design, but as we say in the UK, it's six of one and half dozen of the other between the two designs (Ford v Chevy is the US equivalent I believe).

I have mild loads that shoot great in my hunting 6.5x47 Lapua, so I don't think that statement is 100% accurate, at least not for every gun. But what's the point if you can't push it as fast as possible with great accuracy? So I also agree about getting your bolt face bushed to get maximum potential.

Hi Erik,

I hope I’m not taking this thread off topic, but I thought you might be interested in my latest 6.5x47 (we discussed my RPA a while ago).

Barnard P action, Bartlein barrel and the tube stock built by a friend and myself. Not finished yet as you can see, adjustable butt plate and cheek piece, should be complete in a couple of weeks.

Took it down to Bisley a couple of weeks ago and it shot 5” groups at 1000yds while fire forming new brass.

I think I’m going to like it

Brian

 

[Erik Cortina]

That's a nice rifle you have there, and I don't think you can complain about the accuracy either!

But I just don't think you are going to like it that much, so let me just go ahead and buy it from you right now! ;D

 

[Brian_K]

Thanks Erik, but I think this one’s a keeper.

A bit more machining to do then off for anodising – Lapua blue of course ;D

Brian

 

[Erik Cortina]

Make sure you post some pictures when it's complete!

 

[Brian_K]

Hi Erik,

As promised here are some pictures of the (almost) finished rifle. Taken a while due to work commitments but very pleased with the outcome.

Brian

 

[Erik Cortina]

Looks good! Does it shoot as good as it looks? I bet it does!

 

[Brian_K]

Not bad Erick, just starting with it.

Here is this mornings target:

Most of the targets had the same vertical spread in them, so a little work to do with either Varget/RL15 or RL17. (any suggestions welcome - rifle is chambered with the shorter freebore, 123gr SCENAR)

Neck sized by the way just means a light clean up to get the necks to a consistent .0125"

Brian

 

[Erik Cortina]

A friend of mine that shoots 123's is having good luck with about 41.0 gr. N550, work up to it.

 

[rubbershotgun]

Hi Erik,

As promised here are some pictures of the (almost) finished rifle. Taken a while due to work commitments but very pleased with the outcome.



Brian

wow, thats one nice looking rifle

 

[Brian_K]

Erik,

Thanks, just checked that out with Quickload and it looks good - 3069fps and lower pressure than with Varget.

Will let you know how it goes.

Brian

 

[Brian_K]

Just thought I’d post an update on how the tube gun is going.

I took it down to Bisley last weekend on the 1000yd range. I’ve been able to eradicate the vertical stringing. Neck tension was the problem. Although I’d lightly turned the neck of the cases to give a constant .0125” thickness I hadn’t annealed them. Twenty of the rounds I took with me were annealed to compare with non-annealed and all of them shot very well in light, 5 to 7mph left to right conditions.

Grouping for these rounds were all around the 3” area, I know this because the 3” square orange marker plume was full of holes. I handed the rifle over to a guy who is presently a serving sniper in the British Army and he hit the plume with all four shots of the annealed cases he fired. The smile on his face when he stood up was something to behold, he asked if he could take it to Afghanistan with him in November, but I said all that sand wouldn’t do it any good

38.3gr Varget
123gr SCENAR
2.692” COAL (.125” freebore)
.010” off lands

Going to try some N550 next as Erik suggested, if that would shoot as accurate, with a little less pressure, I’d be a very happy tube gun owner.

Brian

 

[Erik Cortina]

The "47" is a fun round to shoot isn't it? Very accurate and light recoiling!

Glad to hear it's working out for you!

 

[brianc74]

I am shooting 130 hunting VLD bullets with H4350 41.0 grains. The rifle is a Cooper 54 6.5-47, 24 inch barrel 1-9 twist. Groups 1/2 inch at 150 yards. Should I be trying a lighter bullet or a different powder. I am a hunter. The rifle is wearing a 3.5-10 VX3 and total wt is 7.5 lbs