A friend of mine (Jimbo!) gave me some HBN. I understand that it needs to be impact plated on bullets, but there are other applications for it. Here's what I tried with it...
I have some reading dry neck lube (I'm pretty sure it's simply graphite), on the ceramic balls. I used to dip the heel of the bullets in there before seating them, and liked the 'feel' of seating bullets when using the dry lube. The lube/graphite was getting low, and I was pretty much left with ceramic balls in a can, with no lube in there. So, I used a very small amount of HBN and threw it in the ceramic balls. Now I have a "grayish" colored dry lube in the ceramic balls, and my neck tension is flippin' terrible! this stuff is sticky! (creating A LOT of friction). What's up with HBN creating A LOT of tension? It literally felt like the metal (the case or the bullet?) is galling. I haven't used it since the first time I tried it, for obvious reasons.
I'm really just curious what you guys have to say about how I applied it here, and any info on why it didn't work. I expected it to be as slick is the graphite or better, but it wasn't even close.
				
			I have some reading dry neck lube (I'm pretty sure it's simply graphite), on the ceramic balls. I used to dip the heel of the bullets in there before seating them, and liked the 'feel' of seating bullets when using the dry lube. The lube/graphite was getting low, and I was pretty much left with ceramic balls in a can, with no lube in there. So, I used a very small amount of HBN and threw it in the ceramic balls. Now I have a "grayish" colored dry lube in the ceramic balls, and my neck tension is flippin' terrible! this stuff is sticky! (creating A LOT of friction). What's up with HBN creating A LOT of tension? It literally felt like the metal (the case or the bullet?) is galling. I haven't used it since the first time I tried it, for obvious reasons.
I'm really just curious what you guys have to say about how I applied it here, and any info on why it didn't work. I expected it to be as slick is the graphite or better, but it wasn't even close.
 
	










 (unless you can lube plastic with WS2?) I'm a long range guy, and verify every charge with my Parker-tuned beam. I set the Lee a little low, and trickle up from there, using an AWESOME Targetmaster trickler.  Funny you mentioned that though... The Lee thrower used to walk a bit. Now that the internals are 'lubed' with the powder residue (I believe it's some sort of graphite?) it's VERY accurate. If you operate it consistently, it throws very consistent charges. To the point that if I were loading hunting rounds, I wouldn't even double check them. It's amazing what a dry lube can do in a powder measure!
  (unless you can lube plastic with WS2?) I'm a long range guy, and verify every charge with my Parker-tuned beam. I set the Lee a little low, and trickle up from there, using an AWESOME Targetmaster trickler.  Funny you mentioned that though... The Lee thrower used to walk a bit. Now that the internals are 'lubed' with the powder residue (I believe it's some sort of graphite?) it's VERY accurate. If you operate it consistently, it throws very consistent charges. To the point that if I were loading hunting rounds, I wouldn't even double check them. It's amazing what a dry lube can do in a powder measure! 
 
		
