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Question about Arbor presses

In principle, removing and replacing ensures the tip of the seater will contact the mouth of the anvil repeatedly, thousands and thousands of times, unduly. Equally, the opportunity for human error, dropping the seating cap and damaging the mouth of the stem is really only possible if the seating cap is removed.

A lot of folks have done run out tests which show a slight advantage for dropping bullets through the die rather than feeding into the bottom. I’m truly agnostic, and typically bottom load for ergonomic pattern, but I get it.
Again all I'm saying ive found no ill affects, if you have trouble with bullets like " fat" fingers there is a different way
 
Here’s a dumb question; with the Wilson seating stem having a diameter of approx .174 , how does a bullet drop through the hole ?
 
I dont need to, you do you and I will and we will both be happy
I meant the part about the die stem vs the die hole - both steel. You started in about steel vs copper, like you thought I meant dropping the *bullet* in was going to cause undue wear.
 
Here’s a dumb question; with the Wilson seating stem having a diameter of approx .174 , how does a bullet drop through the hole ?
My 222 & 22-250 stems measure .226", the 6PPC stem measures .246". I stopped there.

Much more successful shooters than me taught me that the only time the stems come out of the die is for cleaning or lube. It seems quicker to me as there's no dicking around getting the stem back into the unworn hole. I'm sure there's an ex-wife joke in there somewhere. It takes very little extra dexterity. YMMV.

To the OP... these guys around here have love to spend other people's $$. Depending on your expectations, a force pack, gauge, or other measuring device isn't a necessity on an arbor press so without it the price goes down... like maybe in 1/2? There was once a guy I saw shooting at a match (& doing well) using a slightly modified old bottle capper repurposed for a press. I believe the force pack can be added later to the K&M press if you perceive a real need to do so.

Micrometer dies are the same way. While the mic is handy, if you already have a load it's almost a set & forget adjustment & not really that much of a PITA to adjust if/when needed. Again, the plain Jane dies are approx. 1/2 the price. The micrometer top can also be added to Wilson dies at a later time if you need, or want, it.

Personally, I'd rather spend $150 on a lark/experiment rather than $300+. If it's a success, you can pimp it up all you like. Again... YMMV.
 
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I’ll double check mine thanks..
After a second look my Dasher stem OD is .245, the ID makes contact with the ogive at approx .17xxx mark
Thanks~ now I know…
 
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I you set up an arbor press with a dial indicator that indicates seating pressure (neck tension) you can sort rounds that exhibit light or heavy seating into a fouler/sighter group. When I use neck expander mandrels and then Wilson dies and an arbor press, the majority of my bullets seat within +- 2.5 pounds of pressure as indicated by the dial indicator. When I encounter more than 5 pounds of variation, I sort them out.

A normal press has so much leverage that it is difficult to discern those loose/tight necks.

This is the best reason to use an arbor press and inline die, in my opinion. Your mileage may vary.

--Mike Mc
 
Take the seating stem out and drop the bullet in the stem hole quick and easy.
I used to do that untiil I bumped a case and knocked a kernel or two of powder out while putting the Wilson body on. Those kernels fell into the cup holder and I ended up seating the bullet long because the body stopped on the powder not the cup. I didn't notice until a few rounds later when I checked CBTO. Now I put the bullet in the mouth of the case and then the body over it with the seating stem still in it. I also check every round for CBTO length.
 
My Arbor press came from Harrell’s but there certainly are some great ones to choose from. I also use the accuracy one seating depth comparator to check each round, I get about 95% exact and maybe 5% .0005 variance.
Hard to complain about that.
It Looks like you made a new Base for your Arbor Press incorporating your Accuracy One seating depth gauge. Nice!
 
I have a 21st-century arbor press, and I've always wondered if an upgrade is worth it? Like K&M type? Anyone care to make a case? I find that I really need to crank down on the set dial to keep it locked in place on the post during hard seats. Does the K&M have the gearing and leverage advantage? It seems the internals are much tighter on the K&M.
 

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