• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Primers not firing

I have a Glock #22 40 caliber I have been using cci small pistol primers I seat the primers with a lee priming tool every now and then one round will fail to fire but putting it in the gun again it goes off Is my method of priming causing the problem? Some of the primers go into some of the cases very hard and require and extra hard squeeze. Also tried some federal primers same thing
 
i have been loading WSP (winchester small pistol) in .9mm .40 (both glocks G19 G22 Gen 3) and not having a problem. I would certainly change something, either a different priming method or primer.

you should be getting good slide lock if it is firing.
Is everything chambering and ejecting easily on the ones that fire?
 
Yes lock up and firing no problem shells chamber fine It's not a great problem as I use factory ammo for protection I also have a 40 caliber S&W shield same problem
 
i can't speak to your exact problem, but when i have a rifle that exhibits premature primer cratering or extrusion due to an ill fitting firing pin i use cci primers (especially br-4s) because the cups are harder.

somewhere in the threads on accurate shooter there is a table of primer dimensions and relative cup hardness.... try a search?
 
every now and then one round will fail to fire but putting it in the gun again it goes off

FWIW, every time I have had a primer fail to fire on the first attempt, and it did fire on the second attempt, it was a primer that wasn't adequately seated. The first attempt drives the primer to the bottom of the pocket but absorbs enough of the energy to fail to ignite the compound. The second attempt provides the energy to ignite the compound.

During seating the anvil compresses the primer compound when the primer is properly seated, thus increasing the sensitivity. And it should be below flush (0.002" to 0.005") when properly seated, but of course that all depends on the geometry of your primer pocket. If it is rounded at the bottom corner, the primer will contact before the anvil is properly seated.

I uniform all my primer pockets the first time through the brass, and you will not believe how "bad" some pockets are. So your brass might be part of the cause, especially if you had the same issue with Federal primers, which are known to be more sensitive. Just for info, I will include a picture of a primer pocket after I uniformed it.

PP Uniformed.jpg
 
I have a Glock #22 40 caliber I have been using cci small pistol primers I seat the primers with a lee priming tool every now and then one round will fail to fire but putting it in the gun again it goes off Is my method of priming causing the problem? Some of the primers go into some of the cases very hard and require and extra hard squeeze. Also tried some federal primers same thing

What you describe is likely due to a “high primer” - the primer anvil not contacting the bottom of the pocket. The first strike fully seats the primer, the second causes it to ignite.

A simple check can be performed by placing the head of a primed empty case in contact with a flat horizontal surface. If it wobbles, the primer is likely not fully seated. The top face of a fully seated primer should be below the case end face. When discovered on an empty case, primer reseating can be attempted. Reseating on a loaded round should never be performed!
 
FWIW, every time I have had a primer fail to fire on the first attempt, and it did fire on the second attempt, it was a primer that wasn't adequately seated. The first attempt drives the primer to the bottom of the pocket but absorbs enough of the energy to fail to ignite the compound. The second attempt provides the energy to ignite the compound.

During seating the anvil compresses the primer compound when the primer is properly seated, thus increasing the sensitivity. And it should be below flush (0.002" to 0.005") when properly seated, but of course that all depends on the geometry of your primer pocket. If it is rounded at the bottom corner, the primer will contact before the anvil is properly seated.

I uniform all my primer pockets the first time through the brass, and you will not believe how "bad" some pockets are. So your brass might be part of the cause, especially if you had the same issue with Federal primers, which are known to be more sensitive. Just for info, I will include a picture of a primer pocket after I uniformed it.

View attachment 1101362
What are you using to uniform your pockets with? Those are pretty!
I'm using a Lyman but my pockets have a lil bit of chatter in them.
 
I have a Glock #22 40 caliber I have been using cci small pistol primers I seat the primers with a lee priming tool every now and then one round will fail to fire but putting it in the gun again it goes off Is my method of priming causing the problem? Some of the primers go into some of the cases very hard and require and extra hard squeeze. Also tried some federal primers same thing
Did you uniform primer pocket?
 
I have had the same issue with my G22 , 40 cal. , using CCI primers . And I do not crimp anything . Here comes the sacrilege , CCI fan-boys . The only time I have ever had this issue was with CCI primers . They have one of the hardest , and thickest cups of any primer . I stopped using CCI primers , and went to another brand . Problem went away . And I shoot roughly 5,000 rounds per year through this pistol . Nothing wrong with CCI primers , just not what I would load for a Glock . We are always being told , "Load what the gun likes" by folks on this site ....So ; Load what the gun likes . It's apparent that the gun has a issue with CCI primers . I also went to Win primers and have not had a single mis-fire , no-fire in three years . Just sayin ....
 
Had developed a very good 204R load with CCI br primers, had some cartridges require a second strike to fire. After a lot of measuring and messing with the firing pin/spring, I realized the primers were not fully seated. The culprit, my many years old Lee auto prime had a slight flat spot on the connecting rod lobe. I seated the primers of the remaining rounds with the press priming arm and no more failure to fire. I never did find any proud primers, but some were only -.001-2. With the new Hornady brass and CCI br primers, seemed like primers needed to be -.004-.005.
 
FWIW, every time I have had a primer fail to fire on the first attempt, and it did fire on the second attempt, it was a primer that wasn't adequately seated. The first attempt drives the primer to the bottom of the pocket but absorbs enough of the energy to fail to ignite the compound. The second attempt provides the energy to ignite the compound.





View attachment 1101362
Bingo.
 
It maybe too much crimp or poorly seated primers. Either/or. Most likely it is the “stiff seating” primers giving you trouble. Take a look at the make of case. Some Euro brass have tighter pockets due to CIP standards having smaller primer pockets. The Lee tools are good but they aren’t very strong or robust.

As for uniforming pockets...unless you have a method of automating this process, it get very tedious when you have thousands of pistol brass to do.

Why you are still shooting a 40 is another question entirely.
 
Nothing per se. Except that you can get the same “stopping” performance out of a 9mm and in a pistol that weighs less, more compact and carries more. And recoils less. The bullet technology makes the 40 redundant.
 
Nothing per se. Except that you can get the same “stopping” performance out of a 9mm and in a pistol that weighs less, more compact and carries more. And recoils less. The bullet technology makes the 40 redundant.
got hold of 2 CZ 40B's several years ago,started shooting 1 kept 1 sold the other, and got rid of my Glock17 soon after. It just feels good to me.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
165,807
Messages
2,203,366
Members
79,110
Latest member
miles813
Back
Top