funny, I've never read about the Redding "slide" primer installer. Fastest thing I've found.
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Someone once remarked on here that the primer was a critical component because that is where everything starts. They went on to say that because it's where it all begins very small minute differences will have a profound effect on accuracy. At the time I was chasing an accuracy issue with a particular rifle and it all sounded pretty good...like maybe something easy enough to test out.
I have always just used a Lee priming tool with the tray and seated by "feel". I did notice that I was starting to get some slightly high primers and careful inspection revealed some wear on the pot metal parts of the priming tool.
I had to call Forester for something unrelated and asked the guy if anyone made a priming tool that was positive seating. That is to say one that was adjustable and able to seat all primers to a given depth and force. He recommended the Lee Ram Prime. For $15.00 I got nothing much to loose but time, so I got one. They also sent me the repair parts for the auto prime tool. I played around with uniforming tools and both methods of seating primers and with the most accurate rifle I own {shoots around 3/8" groups at 100} I was unable to discern any difference for the shooting I do.
Early in this thread someone remarked that "primers were different thicknesses" or sizes...it is my understanding that so-called match or "benchrest" primers are stamped out of a sheet of metal that is held to tighter tolerances of thickness. In fact, I have read where this is the only difference. I've never been able to tell a difference accuracy wise {group size at 100} either way with match or other primers either.
Match primers are actually visually inspected going down the line. Some have different colored anvils so you could spot a bad one instantly in a sea of primers
This is the correct answer. If anyone has any doubt about this take a trip to the Super Shoot some time. There will usually some engineer type guys there from Federal that you can ask directly. They will tell you exactly what Grimstod did.Seat by feel. Not measured depth. Setting them below flush is just a given for safety.
The anviles feet must be bottomed out. If they are not then your SDs go up. Been proven over and over again in benchrest.
This is the correct answer. If anyone has any doubt about this take a trip to the Super Shoot some time. There will usually some engineer type guys there from Federal that you can ask directly. They will tell you exactly what Grimstod did.
N.B. In the table, the primer height dimension is the over-all height, not the cup height.
This over-all dimension can be larger than the primer pocket depth, but that does not mean primers will stick up above flush, it is because the over-all primer height includes the anvil prior to “crush”.
The actual primer cup dimensions are not shown, but are typically at least 0.002” below flush when the primer pocket depth is at a Maximum Material Condition (or the shallowest primer pocket depth dimension).
Lately there have been some primer seating versus performance threads, and I know this can be confusing, especially when the cup dimensions are not published by their industry. If you mistake the dimensions above for the actual cup height, for example small rifle primer 0.125 max - small rifle pocket 0.117, then a primer would stick up 0.008”. However...That is not what those dimension on the primer height mean, so just pointing it out.
I use the RCBS bench primer with the Holland attachment. Works quite well and consistently.
Agree. JOE R is just flat WRONG telling people that you want the primer to seat flush, not proud and not recessed. This is just flat OUT WRONG and I wish that people would not offer advice on something they clearly are uneducated on. Primers should ALWAYS be recessed 1-4 thousandths (I personally uniform all pockets and recess all primers to .002” recessed.Hmm I guess I have been doing it wrong... You don't want it recessed a bit??? I load alot of auto which you do want it down a bit.. Not trying to be sarcastic I am really asking... I just use a hand primer btw..
You just seat them till you feel them bottom.I now have a tool that offers adjustable depth primer seating. the new Frankford Arsenal tool is pretty slick for $60.
I use Sinclair's fixed depth primer pocket uniformer on all my Lapua brass (.308, 6BR, .223) so all brass is cut to the same depth. I use CCI BR2s, #450s, and BR4s.
my questions are, how far deep do I seat them? what form of testing will confirm the "correct" amount? will it show up in ES and SD data on the LabRadar? Does it really matter as long as they go bang every time?
inquiring minds want to know
Hmmm??? So, what do you do when the primer pockets are .130" and the primers measure .126"?Agree. JOE R is just flat WRONG telling people that you want the primer to seat flush, not proud and not recessed. This is just flat OUT WRONG and I wish that people would not offer advice on something they clearly are uneducated on. Primers should ALWAYS be recessed 1-4 thousandths (I personally uniform all pockets and recess all primers to .002” recessed.
Dave