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Press For 6ppc Reloading- Suggestions

Harrell FL die, from fired cases from your chamber, set for proper bump, from tight case, used every time.
 
The best thing to do is have your gunsmith build you a custom Wilson seating die with your reamer when he chambers your barrel.

If you are running a tight neck chamber, just buy a Wilson stainless seater in 6PPC and cut the length of the neck off the bottom of the die then re-ream the shoulder and neck with your reamer. Or just leaving it as it is will be fine. You can also buy Wilson blanks, but I don't know if you can get the blanks in stainless or with a micrometer top? I'm sure these fellas would know...

I recently built a 243 LBC Turbo 40.I just bought a 6PPC Wilson stainless micrometer seater and reamed out my shoulder. Works great and the fit is as tight as can be.
 
Harrell FL die, from fired cases from your chamber, set for proper bump, from tight case, used every time
Hey Boyd, I've thought about this before....don't I need to get a FL die(Redding 77211?) to load cases for the fire-forming process......before I can send off the formed cases to get a potentially more precise Harrell die?
 
Here is a little cheat that I will share with you, if you promise not to tell anyone. If you turn a couple of your cases so that the loaded rounds measure (over the largest diameter of a seated bullet, with a micrometer, not a caliper) no more than .001 smaller than your chamber neck diameter, the necks will probably spring back enough to hold a bullet for the other firings that you need. Are you set up to turn necks yet? Also, if you are on a budget, Wilson's least expensive seater that is not stainless, and has no micrometer, will do you just fine. Make sure that your necks have a decent chamfer, slide the seater and stem down over the bullet and case. Before you start to seat the bullet, give the cap a little twist to help center the bullet in it and the case mouth, and then seat the bullet. Lots of winning groups have been shot with ammo assembled with that seater. I keep track of my settings by recording the total length of stem and cap assembly. just remember if you want to seat the bullet longer, the stem and cap measurement needs be be made shorter by the amount that you want to lengthen. If you run into any problems, PM me.
 
I agree, the micrometer is not "needed", but it sure is nice when fine tuning a load. Worth the extra money in my opinion.

My favorite thing about the 6mm Wilson seaters is that the seating stem bore in the die is 0.245". So you can set the brass in the die, then just drop the bullet down the stem opening. Just ease the bullet down by tilting the die at a 45, then put the seater stem back in and push it down. This way you don't have to balance bullets on the case mouth.
 
Wilson says not to do it that way (pull the stem and drop the bullet down its bore) because of wear that repeatedly doing so causes. I have the micrometer top sitting in a box, and sold my micrometer die with the adjustment in the die body. My tightest clearance seater is one that is chamber neck diameter, specific and which has a close fit in the body. It is by Don Nielson. It has no micrometer, and after getting used to making adjustments to it, using my dial calipers to measure the combined length of the stem and cap, and noting those same measurements. (I also have a couple of the plainest Wilsons that I use that way as well.) I prefer that method. Just a personal quirk I guess.
 
BoydAllen said:
Wilson says not to do it that way (pull the stem and drop the bullet down its bore) because of wear that repeatedly doing so causes...

Well that's ridiculous. It's gonna take a LONG, LONG, time for that to happen. I wonder how many slowly sliding copper jackets it would take to wear out stainless seater stem walls? 50,000? 100,000? 500,000? Maybe more?

I'll take my chances for the convenience...
 
Well....I plan on shooting my PPCs a long long time ;) Of course I did not think that my comment would change your method. It was written for those who might not have formed any habit, and were not aware of the manufacturer's recommendation.
 
DMT...the reason that Wilson says to not remove the seater stem to insert a bullet is due to the fact that removal and re-insertion is what causes the wear ,,,,not the bullet droping/passing thru that area,,,,I am not shure what your method of loading is ,,,,you speak of "balancing" the bullet on the case mouth,,,have you tried grasping the bullet and the case neck with your thumb and trigger finger and orienting them while placing the seater die over the top,,!!! I see most competitors doing it this way,,,,watch them at a match sometime,,,most of the places I have shot at rush to reload between targets (the rules say 1/2 hr. min.between targets) and this is much quicker,,,,it is EZ to do,,If I can do it with my feeble hands anyone can,,,,(loading ammo is part of my rehabilitation for my broken neck/spinal chord trauma),,,,Roger
 
BoydAllen said:
Well....I plan on shooting my PPCs a long long time ;) Of course I did not think that my comment would change your method. It was written for those who might not have formed any habit, and were not aware of the manufacturer's recommendation.
Chuckle chuckle chuckle ;)
Wayne.
 
expiper said:
DMT...the reason that Wilson says to not remove the seater stem to insert a bullet is due to the fact that removal and re-insertion is what causes the wear ,,,,not the bullet droping/passing thru that area,,,,I am not shure what your method of loading is ,,,,you speak of "balancing" the bullet on the case mouth,,,have you tried grasping the bullet and the case neck with your thumb and trigger finger and orienting them while placing the seater die over the top,,!!! I see most competitors doing it this way,,,,watch them at a match sometime,,,most of the places I have shot at rush to reload between targets (the rules say 1/2 hr. min.between targets) and this is much quicker,,,,it is EZ to do,,If I can do it with my feeble hands anyone can,,,,(loading ammo is part of my rehabilitation for my broken neck/spinal chord trauma),,,,Roger
Exactly!
Wayne.
 
Gergg,
I tend to be a follower when it comes to buying equipment, what I mean I look to see what winning shooters are using and purchase what there buying,..reason they already have bought stuff that didn't work and or that wasn't optimal and they have narrowed it down to what they feel is the best. Most all that I know winning with ppc rifles are using Harrell's presses and some use the K&M arbor press along with a Harrell's compact loading press. I also usually listen to Boyd Allen when he talks so I would tend to concentrate more on the better dies than the press, I have the little partner press and it works fine but for portable work the Harrell's is the best to me because you don't need a board and separate c clamp. If your shooting for your own fun and entertainment then Harrell's std. over the counter sizing die and a wilson seater will amaze you how accurate they are. If your in serious compitition then go custom all the way buy the best of everything, read Tony Boyers book, Get Boyd Allens phone number and really get after it!
http://www.rifleaccuracybook.com/

Good Luck!
Wayne.
 
I see. I misunderstood. I can see how that might wear that way.

Still too convenient for me to not do it. If I wear it out, I'll just get another one I suppose. I'm sure it will still last an extremely long time that way if I don't treat it like a curious gorilla ;)
 
expiper said:
Gregg,,,many "B"enchrest shooters use the RCBS "Partner" press,,,,it is made of aluminum and is EZ to transport to the range and is inexpensive compared to most other presses,,,,If you want to spend the $$ get one of Harrells portable range presses,,,,,if you are going to shoot competitevly you will apreciate a compact portable press,,,as far as dies ,,,I like the Redding full length type S small base for most PPC chambers,,,,talk to "real"shooters at the range before you buy anything,,,,Roger

+1 on the real shooters Roger..

Gregg;

You can learn more in one day at a match and asking questions about equipment than you will on here listening to hundreds of opinions from people that do no competition shootin in the Benchrest business.
There is no "Best" of anything. It about what will give you precise results without neccesarily buying the most expensive.
Example;
Back then I bought a sinclair stainless arbor press for over $100. and have regretted it ever since. Heavy and way too much money. Look for a used onefrom "Bob White". He owns "The Shooters Corner". The largest selection of new AND used equipment there is. Furthermore, the man is honest and a real gentleman.
He shoots with us and most have come to know him.

Joe
 
LCazador said:
+1 on what Boyd says. Spend your money on quality dies and a cheap press will do. Harrels bump die, Wilson seater, Harrell combo press if you can afford it, a good neck turner, and a good barrel!

LC;
Pretty accurate summation. About the combo press. I t will save you having to buy an arbor press, (which should be a consideration). I had one and didn't care for it for some reason. I had to have something machined for it to be able to clamp it to my bench. I had hoped that would have been taken into consideration at the onset. I ended up with what many if not most use, and that is the Harrells with the round knob on the end. Hard to beat for the money.

Also this;

Greg:
I made a huge mistake by not buying my own reamer. Do NOT make that mistake. Buy a new one and use the same Machinist each time you have a barrel chambered. You'll find out why when it comes time to blow out brass, and using your old barrel for this task ,( not your NEW one)
Good luck..
Joe !
 
LC;
Pretty accurate summation. About the combo press. I t will save you having to buy an arbor press, (which should be a consideration). I had one and didn't care for it for some reason. I had to have something machined for it to be able to clamp it to my bench. I had hoped that would have been taken into consideration at the onset. I ended up with what many if not most use, and that is the Harrells with the round knob on the end. Hard to beat for the money.

Also this;

Greg:
I made a huge mistake by not buying my own reamer. Do NOT make that mistake. Buy a new one and use the same Machinist each time you have a barrel chambered. You'll find out why when it comes time to blow out brass, and using your old barrel for this task ,( not your NEW one)
Good luck..
Joe !
Which reamer do you like to use for the 6ppc?
 
back in the day, I loaded with a Small base redding bushing die in a well worn partner press I had a seater that was cut with my reamer and seated with a sinclair arbor press, My reamer was a #3 Boyer. I saw a lot of others with similar set ups. I adjusted my sizing die just enuff to bump the shoulders .002. I used the die shims under the lock ring. after the brass got a little older, I would have to take a thou out because of spring back,, after a few matches like that, the bases were not sizing enuff either I started over with new brass. Some say that .02 is too much but I did not want to wrestle with the bolt at the bench. I also used shims under my seater stem. I liked that better than the adjustable ones
 
That's a pretty old thread. I'm using a Speedy/Boyer reamer with .265" neck. When I see cases start losing their springback, I discard them. I hate having to fight the bolt too!
 

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