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Press for hydro-forming?

Hydroforming is a pain in the butt until you have a process. Then it goes fairly quickly. I have found the trick to getting rid of the radiused neck shoulder line that some complain about is to form the case with the shoulder slightly long, and then size it a few thousandths. This forms a pretty good case, and I can't measure a difference is the case capacity of water with fireformed brass. If looking to shoot screamer groups in benchrest without first fireforming you might be disappointed. I have no experience with that. I have had no problem shooting at 1/2 to 3/4 moa with my cheap steel wacking gun to 800 yds with hydroformed 243 Ackley brass. I find it well worth it to save barrel life when forming the 400-500 cases required to keep up with shooting local prs style matches.
 
Hydroforming is a pain in the butt until you have a process. Then it goes fairly quickly. I have found the trick to getting rid of the radiused neck shoulder line that some complain about is to form the case with the shoulder slightly long, and then size it a few thousandths. This forms a pretty good case, and I can't measure a difference is the case capacity of water with fireformed brass. If looking to shoot screamer groups in benchrest without first fireforming you might be disappointed. I have no experience with that. I have had no problem shooting at 1/2 to 3/4 moa with my cheap steel wacking gun to 800 yds with hydroformed 243 Ackley brass. I find it well worth it to save barrel life when forming the 400-500 cases required to keep up with shooting local prs style matches.

I'll try forming long then sizing down. Makes sense. Thanks for the tip :)

My reason for the hydro die was because I didn't want to fireform 200 pieces of brass in my 300 Norma barrels. That's a lot of hot burning powder and ledd each time. Wanna make the barrels last as long as I can.
 

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