Powered Neck Turning?

[fdshuster]

Never had a case come loose yet and they are hand tightened. I must have a really good chuck also because there is no wobble.

RPM is set at 620 for turning. Cuts are every bit as true as I get with the Sinclair cross T handle shell holder.

 

[dreever]

I have two Black and Decker cordless screw drivers that I bought at Wally World. I think they are 180 RPM. Have used them for years. While ones neck turning the others on the charger ready to go. They have never failed me yet.
Unless you are planning on turning hundreds/thousands of necks I see no reason to spend hundreds of dollars on a unit.

Danny

 

[BoydAllen]

On the K&M holder, I would caution you not to do as I do, without great care, and take no responsibility if you get hurt, but I simply tape the appropriate sized Allen wrench in place, so that it stays in the hole that is there for an assist in tightening if the nut that secures the case. Since one hand is on the cordless drill, and the other on the turner, when turning, there is little chance of an accident. I save some time, and every case is secure.

Of course since I switched to a 21st Century holder, that has an O ring to increase holder traction on the case head, I manage with hand tightening, and cases don't wobble nearly as much. You might want to try one.

 

[ridgeway]

On the K&M holder, I would caution you not to do as I do, without great care, and take no responsibility if you get hurt, but I simply tape the appropriate sized Allen wrench in place, so that it stays in the hole that is there for an assist in tightening if the nut that secures the case. Since one hand is on the cordless drill, and the other on the turner, when turning, there is little chance of an accident. I save some time, and every case is secure.

Of course since I switched to a 21st Century holder, that has an O ring to increase holder traction on the case head, I manage with hand tightening, and cases don't wobble nearly as much. You might want to try one.

Good idea on taping a rod into the hole. One idea I thought about but didn't proceed yet was sacrificing an open ended wrench and cut the end off to where I have an inch or two leverage. That way with being a hex shape, I can tighten quickly and can be in any position.

I'll keep that in mind about the 21st century holder and my end up ordering one.

 

[tenring]

Before he retired, I was in Ken Markle's shop several times. He always had 2 or 3 Craftsman cordless screwdrivers on the charger. I have had two of them near my bench ever since. But they do not hold a charge long enuf to turn more than about 20 necks. So, it is very easy to remove one and switch to the fully charged unit. They sell at K-Mart and Sears for about $20.

I use the K&M shell holder also. I tighten it down with case inserted in the shell holder with a 13/16" combination wrench.

 

[SShooterZ]

Any experiences with the Hart or Sinclair Case Holders?

 

[TonyR]

Any experiences with the Hart or Sinclair Case Holders?

The Hart is excellent. It works with Redding Shellholders. Very positive hold and works well with a drill chuck.

 

[Erik Cortina]

Here you go, this is the absolute best way to turn brass.
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/index.php?topic=3800995.msg36149015#msg36149015

 

[searcher]

I second the use of the Dewalt 18v drill(mine is NOT the lithium ion model). As prior reader stated - it sits on the workbench due to the flat battery bottom and with the three speeds - put it on slowest speed setting and you can get excellent SLOW controlled cutting. I don't depress the trigger all the way which results in VERY slow, like 15 or 20 rpm. I've turned many thousands of pieces in this manner and the battery will go for about 75 pieces before I change batteries. Best also to switch over to high speed every 40 or 50 cases (with no case in the chuck) and run the drill high speed under no load for about 10 seconds just to maintain good contact with your brushes/armature. You'll smell a little "electric smell" for the first few seconds - then all O.K. for another 50 cases. The 18V model is probably much heavier and more powerful and more expensive than is needed - yet the extra heft of the drill helps keep things steady. Before I chuck the case in the drill, I dip the neck into a 1/2" deep tray of Marvel Mystery oil and that is perfect lubrication at the slowest of speeds for a good pass over the brass. re-dip in lube for each pass. I've had far more consistent results using this method than all of the other methods with the heavier lubes and waxes. I have found this to be more of an enjoyable step in brass prep. Now I even do a light pass over my .556 brass for across the course use.

 

[jonbearman]

Anyone use a gracey neck shaver? I always wondered if they worked.

 

[Webster]

Check out Harbor Freight for a low price drill. They probably have a corded drill for about $18. Almost everything at HF is made in China. I have a Black and Decker12V Lithium battery unit from Sears. I think I paid $59. It has good battery life. I don't see an obvious model number on it. It's a small unit. The only numbers I see on it are 2011 36-BM.

 

[jlow]

Happiness costs more than $50.00.

This is exactly correct. Cheap drills = short run time. You are already there so why go there again? FWIW, I brought one Dewalt a few years ago and will never go back - yes, poor battery life. the battery drains just sitting.....

Do yourself a favor and look at a Borsch lithium powered one.

 

[thefitter]

Happiness costs more than $50.00.

Not in Thailand!

 

[M-61]

I've been using a floor mounted (really old Packard) drill press. Minimum RPM. Very much like FDSHUSTER shows in his reply. Nice slow feed on the arbor and it cuts beautifully. Never mentioned it before as I was sure someone would point out some safety issues,but I have not had a problem. It is the only way I turn necks now no matter how few I have to do.

 

[Trex]

Happiness costs more than $50.00.

Sometimes a guy gets lucky, bought a second hand one of these a few years back for on Ebay for £40 ($50-$60) complete with driver, variable speed, variable speed soft start, adjustable torque settings, forward and reverse options.

Use it for cleaning case necks, case length trimming, turning necks, primer pocket uniforming, etc. Generally I hand chamfer my cases but with the slow start I can chamfer with it as well if I'm inclined. Great tool and has been faultless in the time I have had it.

Better than a battery hand drill, I quickly got fed up with that. I'm happy with it and it saves messing with the lathe. 8)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DENSEI-DELVO-DLC1213-FE-variable-speed-flexible-drill-screwdriver-power-supply-/111090339364?pt=BI_Control_Systems_PLCs&hash=item19dd800e24

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delvo-DLV7331-CKE-Electric-Screwdriver-2-5-10-4-lbf-in-/390547349861?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5aee6fa165

 

[Juma]

I second the use of the Dewalt 18v drill(mine is NOT the lithium ion model). As prior reader stated - it sits on the workbench due to the flat battery bottom and with the three speeds - put it on slowest speed setting and you can get excellent SLOW controlled cutting. I don't depress the trigger all the way which results in VERY slow, like 15 or 20 rpm. I've turned many thousands of pieces in this manner and the battery will go for about 75 pieces before I change batteries. Best also to switch over to high speed every 40 or 50 cases (with no case in the chuck) and run the drill high speed under no load for about 10 seconds just to maintain good contact with your brushes/armature. You'll smell a little "electric smell" for the first few seconds - then all O.K. for another 50 cases. The 18V model is probably much heavier and more powerful and more expensive than is needed - yet the extra heft of the drill helps keep things steady. Before I chuck the case in the drill, I dip the neck into a 1/2" deep tray of Marvel Mystery oil and that is perfect lubrication at the slowest of speeds for a good pass over the brass. re-dip in lube for each pass. I've had far more consistent results using this method than all of the other methods with the heavier lubes and waxes. I have found this to be more of an enjoyable step in brass prep. Now I even do a light pass over my .556 brass for across the course use.

The Hornady case lube is great with Dewalt and K&M. We clean the cases with SSM afterwards.