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Powder coating cast bullets for dummies

An hour in the tumbler? I shake for no more than a few minutes for a solid coat. Another point to remember is moisture (think raining cats and dogs outside) can affect the powder and the coating. If you want a good solid coat, you need to get a technique down but if you just want some plastic on the outside of the bullets it doesn't matter.

If you do try the shake and bake, use a heavier #5 container with a good snap on lid otherwise you'll need to do it outside and pick up the mess. I tried the whipped topping container 1 time only. Remember you can recoat if necessary and you are correct that a sizing die will mash it right down.

This is actually enjoyable to me and I experimented and asked questions and read all I could. My first attempts were no where as good a what I can do now. You can do it too!
 
Yes. You can recoat powder coat. In your case it may give you a better product as that so so first coat was over the top of a contaminated surface. A second coat will adhere to the first coat and blend. It still won't make up for a poor quality powder but will help. It's plastic. Don't cure at to high of a temp (400° is a good standard cure temp) and you will just add a thicker coat. Keep in mind that you don't want a bedliner on your bullets and accuracy can suffer. You need to ask yourself how deep down this rabbit hole do you want to go. I have gone down to the bedrock and there's more to be found but if all you want to do is shoot these few bullets you are referring to, the juice ain't worth the squeeze. Just add another coat, cure, size, and shoot them.

Compared to many over on Castboolits I'm a neophyte as I only have about 30 molds and a few thousand in sizing, lubing, and coating stuff for those molds. It's a deep hole!
 
Ok, I sized the bullets I had coated in three different techniques, only the wet coating were completely covered. Is there a danger shooting the 75% covered bullets. Most of these will be fired out of a 2" .38 special as I am using them up to practice for my CCW requalifications.
 
I have cast my own 3 or 4 times and have always tumble lubed. The best change I have made was to go to 20 to 1 with Tin added to the mix. By the time you cast ingots, cast bullets, size them , lube them and then go through the whole process of loading them. You will have a lot of time in the process. Adde the steps to PC just seems like too much work in addition to what is already necessary. I do like the idea and the benefits of PC. I think that the lube sizer may be the answer, as the bullets have to be sized anyway. I know nothing about lube sizing, but it seems to be expensive for the sizing die and I would need one for 38, one for 9mm , and one for 45. Do they make them that have a changeable die so all sizes can be done with one sizer?
 
I have cast my own 3 or 4 times and have always tumble lubed. The best change I have made was to go to 20 to 1 with Tin added to the mix. By the time you cast ingots, cast bullets, size them , lube them and then go through the whole process of loading them. You will have a lot of time in the process. Adde the steps to PC just seems like too much work in addition to what is already necessary. I do like the idea and the benefits of PC. I think that the lube sizer may be the answer, as the bullets have to be sized anyway. I know nothing about lube sizing, but it seems to be expensive for the sizing die and I would need one for 38, one for 9mm , and one for 45. Do they make them that have a changeable die so all sizes can be done with one sizer?
Yes a lube-sizer (both of mine are RCBS Lube a Matic's) will allow you to change out the sizing dies. A decent rule of thumb is .001" over bore, i.e. .358" for a .357 etc etc. A nose punch will also be necessary and a good lube.

A hard lube, while not as messy as a softer lube, will not do as good of a job as a softer lube at typical pistol velocities IME. The lubes I use (White Label Lube) are on the softer side but will stay put without running in an occasionally hot shop. Hard lubes typically need a heater and will stay on the bullets even into a dirt backstop, through a fire, and maybe through an engine block.... I guess you can tell I like a softer lube.

BTW, what alloy were you adding 20-1 to? Some don't like to waste tin as it's expensive but I use a lot of it as tin helps make smooth perfect bullets as long as you have the heat of the melt right. I have batches of 20-1 cast bullets that I'll use during hunting season just in case I want to use a revolver. Pistol/revolver bullets don't need to be hard as a steel billet. Wheel weights sweetened with some of your 20-1 will still drive deep. Tin does possibly create other problems with molds but that is another conversation. There's lots of information on Castboolits by more experienced gray beards than I.
 
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Main problem is HF powder! Waste of money for the shake and bake method. Gets some from smoke off of cast boolits or order some from powder by the pound .com or Eastwood. Apparently HF can work especially with the static gun but other then that waste of money
Smokes Carolina blue does a fine job
IMG_20230530_153157946_HDR.jpg
 
The 1 part of the 20 to 1 alloy is not exactly tin it is pewter. Are you saying I can buy one lube-a-matic and change the die part and do all my handgun sizes >357, .355, and .453?
 
The 1 part of the 20 to 1 alloy is not exactly tin it is pewter. Are you saying I can buy one lube-a-matic and change the die part and do all my handgun sizes >357, .355, and .453?
Die and nose punch. Pretty much any bullet caliber and/or style you want.
And @DHD is also correct about using softer lubes.
 

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