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Cast Bullet Coatings

I shoot a mix of 6 to 1 lino/lead. I recently was trying a 6MM bullet, GC and PC, and initial load went 2700, and I started backing down, getting down to a 2000 speed. I cleaned every 10 shots or so. Got home to see what the damage was to the barrel, and it was clean. Typical PC, barrels are very clean.
 
@PhilC , are you sizing the 7s after coating?

I’ve never bothered with coating for my 45-70s but I’ve had a Ruger #3 in 30-40 Krag for several yrs that I’ve dabbled with off and on and PC is one of the things I’m thinking I want to do. I’ve basically only done velocity work up work with 200gr gas checks to date.
I do even though not necessary.
 
I shoot a mix of 6 to 1 lino/lead. I recently was trying a 6MM bullet, GC and PC, and initial load went 2700, and I started backing down, getting down to a 2000 speed. I cleaned every 10 shots or so. Got home to see what the damage was to the barrel, and it was clean. Typical PC, barrels are very clean.
At 6:1 lino/lead I'm not the least bit surprised your barrel was lead free, bhn was near 20!
 
Many opinions out there, what is reliable? I think I'm going to load some Acme 38 sp. bullets, 125 gr. coated, using Unique powder, at low velocity. Lots of info, not sure of reliability. The Lyman, Cast Bullet Handbook doesn't mention coated bullets, unless I missed it, just lubed bullets. Any help will be appreciated.
Thank you, George
I am going to try to stay on what you want to know.

I have cast bullets a long time but, I have not done powder coating personally but have shot them. Overall, they do well even in a 44Mag. The only PC bullets I have had trouble with was not from leading but were poorly Made (they deviated about 5grs in weight).

Now I looked at Acme and based on the information they provide, They look to be a well made bullet. they will probably be fine to near max 357Mag loads.

I can honestly say over the years, the only gun that has had leading problems was my Henry Frontier 22LR rifle and with Federal automatch ammo. This same rifle shoots fine with SK High Velocity match ammo at a higher velocity. The only difference is the SK uses a standard lube while automatch uses a dry lube.

as for your Lyman Cast bullet handbook, check what edition you have. Mine is the third edition and it was printed in 1980. Powder coating did not exist back then.
 
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I am going to try to stay on what you want to know.

I have cast bullets a long time but, I have not done powder coating personally but have shot them. Overall, they do well even in a 44Mag. The only PC bullets I have had trouble with was not from leading but were poorly Made (they deviated about 5grs in weight).

Now I looked at Acme and based on the information they provide, They look to be a well made bullet. they will probably be fine to near max 357Mag loads.

I can honestly say over the years, the only gun that has had leading problems was my Henry Frontier 22LR rifle and with Federal automatch ammo. This same rifle shoots fine with SK High Velocity match ammo at a higher velocity. The only difference is the SK uses a standard lube while automatch uses a dry lube.

as for your Lyman Cast bullet handbook, check what edition you have. Mine is the third edition and it was printed in 1980. Powder coating did not exist back then.
Casting and coating bullets is not in my plan. I have some 125gr. Acme coated bullets on order. I will load these at low velocity, low recoil. Evidently I'm 'breaking my wrist' and shooting low. This is what I'm trying to correct. My goal is stout loads in case I encounter a rhinapotamus. The "Lyman Handbook" is the forth edition. I'm not sure of the bullet coating remarks reliability on the web, so I will go cautiously. The Acme bullets have good comments, I will start with a few low beginning loads and work up carefully. It seems the Hy-Tec coating is better than powder coating. At 83 years old I'm a certified geezer, I've had to give up a few activities, when I'm need to give something up, I add something new. I can't walk the 100yds. at the rifle range, maybe I can do 25yds. at the pistol range. I know I'm compromised, I'm looking for some enjoyment, not trophies.
Thank you, for your response, George
 
Good luck on your shooting. I had to stop casting due to tremors in my hands but I can still shoot so I just buy my bullets now.

When I cast for my .308 I would use Lyman #2 alloy. Cast, apply gas check, size base, size nose. Powder coat. Final size base and size nose. Ready to shoot. :)

FWIW, cast bullets, gas checked without powder coat have been routinely fired at 2600fps. I did some at 2500fps. Also shot powder coated with gas checks at that velocity. No leading. My only issue was twist rate. The 1:10 was too fast and the bullets would start to spiral. Under 2400fps and they were good for near MOA out to 500yd, and 600yd with the right bullet shape.

Around 2800fps things get weird with std lead alloys. There is evidence that the base of the bullets beneath the gas check starts to melt. No leading in the bore, it just shoots badly.
 
I don’t PC anymore. Just never did do anything for me. I use sizing and lubing as a last step visual inspection. Powder coating can not fix a poorly or badly cast bullet.
Suppose it’s what one is satisfied with. I expect no less from a cast bullet than I do a jacketed accuracy wise.
 
I’ve shot powder coated cast bullets in my 308 up to 2150 fps with zero leading problems. They are gas checked but I think that’s irrelevant to a leading problem, size matters most.

Isn't that specifically what a gas check is supposed to do - isolate the lead from the combustion gases to prevent leading?
 
I have yet to ever have a powder coated bullet shoot as good as traditional lube or tumble lube. It would be very nice if they did because I would like to use them suppressed and they run squeaky clean if the alloy is up to the task.
I have not run gas checks with powder coat which may help.

They are reliable if the coating is done correctly. It would honestly be the best bang for your buck if happy with accuracy. Clean for sure
 
I have yet to ever have a powder coated bullet shoot as good as traditional lube or tumble lube. It would be very nice if they did because I would like to use them suppressed and they run squeaky clean if the alloy is up to the task.
I have not run gas checks with powder coat which may help.

They are reliable if the coating is done correctly. It would honestly be the best bang for your buck if happy with accuracy. Clean for sure
I see no accuracy difference going from traditional lube and lube grooved bullets to their powder coated counterparts. I notice more of a difference in bullet vs bore fit than lube vs powder coat. That's in 30 cal, 380, 9mm and God's caliber. I also shoot PC'd bullets out to 150 yards from a chassi'ed rifle with decent accuracy 1-2 moa.
Dan

I started out with Lee Alox and beeswax and tallow then migrated to the 45/45/10 mix and now exclusively powder coat and will never go back.
 
Isn't that specifically what a gas check is supposed to do - isolate the lead from the combustion gases to prevent leading?
I’m not convinced it needs to do that…. I’ve recovered a lot of fired bullets and I’ve never seen evidence that the base has melted, pc’d or “standard” lube. The pc’d ones have the paint still on them in loads that have up to 17grs of powder behind them.

I think the leading comes from an undersize bullet that is getting pushed through the rifling and stripping the lead off. Also think the gas escaping past the bullet contributes to the leading and once it starts the barrel leads quicker. And a light powder charge isn’t pushing fast enough to make the bullet fill the barrel, again adding to the problem.

I need to do some testing. I haven’t sized any bullets to .429 since I stated powder coating. I install the gas check with the .429 seater because it installs them tighter and they stay on better, especially if I’m sizing to .432. I’m going to size some pc’d bullets (plain base and gas checked) to .429 and see if they lead with various powdered loads. This will be a good test…
 

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