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Powder Charge With Jammed Bullet

What powder charge precautions do you guys take when firing a jammed bullet vs using the book load data?

For example, if the reloading manual gives a powder charge range of 40.0 to 45.0 grains, do you test a jammed bullet by using the lowest powder charge or somewhere in the middle?

What sort of neck tension would be recommended when jamming a bullet?

Thanks,

Shawn
 
Can't give you any advice, only tell you what I do that works for me. I like about 2 thou neck tension and start at the lower end of the powder charge range and slowly work your way up watching for signs of pressure.. Best Wishes
 
I prefer to save the jam for toast and seat the bullet where it just touches. Nothing worse than being at the range, loading a round, then having to unload it before firing and have the bullet pull out because it is jammed into the rifling.

When determining starting load, I review several sources of data, and look for commonalities that match close to what I have. Barrel twist, brass, primer, bullet, and then the different powder selections. Most manuals will indicate which load was most accurate in their barrel. Their accurate load is almost always a good goal to stair step up to.

Hope this helps.

Steve :)
 
I prefer to save the jam for toast and seat the bullet where it just touches. Nothing worse than being at the range, loading a round, then having to unload it before firing and have the bullet pull out because it is jammed into the rifling.

When determining starting load, I review several sources of data, and look for commonalities that match close to what I have. Barrel twist, brass, primer, bullet, and then the different powder selections. Most manuals will indicate which load was most accurate in their barrel. Their accurate load is almost always a good goal to stair step up to.

Hope this helps.

Steve :)


I agree with Steve's concern about having to unload at the range with a bullet possibly jammed in the bore. Should that situation arise, I would point the barrel in an upward direction upon opening the bolt so that possible powder would not flow into the action. Then of course there would be the need to clear the barrel of the stuck bullet with a cleaning rod from the muzzle.
That being said, it is a decision of whether or not that whole process is worth even doing. In the quest for always tighter groups and better consistent accuracy, it's an option to try for improvement, hopefully when you are at the range alone without the possibility of the need to open the action on a loaded round. From there, the results of that kind of test will determine whether or not the risk at the range when others are present is worth it.
 
As normal, start low and work up a load. Two ways to increase pressures - seat the bullet into the case a lot or seat the bullet closer than .010" off the lands. Personally I do a powder charge ladder test with non-VLD bullets off the lands about .020" then do a seating depth test with a load at least one grain less than anything close to maximum FOR YOUR RIFLE. Combine the best of the two tests and adjust from there. Has worked well for me.
 
Jamming a bullet will increase pressure and when testing a new load, is not recommended. Better to start with the ogive lightly touching the lands. Go up or down from that point.

Compressing the bullet against a full powder charge will change your desired jam. Reducing the neck bushing size will possibly increase tension, but will also affect accuracy. You need to test everything and select the best combination for use in your rifle.
 
What sort of neck tension would be recommended when jamming a bullet?

I do not use neck tension, I use bullet hold. When it comes to bullet hold I want all the bullet hold I can get. For me there is no such thing as too much bullet hold. When it come to sticking the bullet into the lands I have to think, or ask; Do I want my bullet setting still at the lands with out the running start? I know pressure is going to build behind the bullet, I want my bullet to hit the lands a moving.

F. Guffey
 
I have found that if I start with say 40.0 grains (as an example) with the bullet set at a jump to the lands, that charge will start showing pressure signs. (cratered primers and stiff bolt operation)
That same powder charge and the same bullet weight with the bullet stuffed .010" into the lands will not show pressure signs AND I can "increase the charge" before pressure signs will start showing. You will still have the same problem of pulling a loaded round and dumping the powder into the action. (been there, done that a bunch of times):oops:
 
I have a question for the person who started this thread. When you say jammed, exactly what do you mean? The reason that I ask is that I have observed that this word is used to mean different things, and it is better if we know exactly what you mean.
 
Boyd, good question. During testing I seat bullets so they just touch and do not engrave or hang up in the rifling. It has been my understanding that this method does not increase pressure. After I find good horizontal, I adjust seating depth to find the best group. Usually from .05 off to .01 jam.

Question, does just touching make more pressure than .02 off?
 
I do not use neck tension, I use bullet hold. When it comes to bullet hold I want all the bullet hold I can get. For me there is no such thing as too much bullet hold. When it come to sticking the bullet into the lands I have to think, or ask; Do I want my bullet setting still at the lands with out the running start? I know pressure is going to build behind the bullet, I want my bullet to hit the lands a moving.

F. Guffey

So how many holds should he start out with?
 
First off, I START all of my load development with at least a .010 jam. Never, ever "just touching the lands" or .001, .002....that has it's own set of problems. That way, if I decide to test the other way (jump...at least .010) I do not need to worry about reducing my loads in fear of a PSI spike.

As a side note, I have never found a jumped load that worked as well as a jammed load at LR...and I do ALL of my testing at 750 yards. On the other hand, I have never tried more than a fifty thou jump....it could be that I am missing something.

Tod
 
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I have a question for the person who started this thread. When you say jammed, exactly what do you mean? The reason that I ask is that I have observed that this word is used to mean different things, and it is better if we know exactly what you mean.

Thanks for the replies gents...

Since I have never loaded a cartridge and jammed it before, my ignorant definition would mean load the bullet long and let the closing of the bolt seat the bullet fully.

Thanks,

Shawn
 
I have never jam bullets into the lands nor would I ever consider it in over 40+ years of reloading.

I've been able to achieve excellent accuracy with .010 to .020' off the lands in my precision varmint rifles; groups in the 1/4 moa range.

I personally believe that jamming bullets into the lands is asking for trouble especially for the average reloader.
 
IMO, the correct, old school, B&W Precision Shooting, short range benchrest definition of jam is the length that a bullet would be pushed back to when seated long and chambered, using the neck tension that will be used for the actual loads that will be shot. You can either set your seater to seat bullets to that length, or get there by loading a little long and finishing seating when you chamber the round before shooting it. So sawacs...from my perspective, you are right on the money. Now that we have that settled, on to the original question... or something closely resembling it.

When I am working up a load for the first time, I establish jam length, and then back off about .003 so I will not stick and pull a bullet if I unchamber a loaded round. Then I pick a safe load that is well below my intended velocity, and shoot a test, trying to shoot all shots in the same condition, on a day when the wind is easy, holding center, on a single target, shooting over flags. For something like a PPC I shoot one round per load, after fouling the barrel with a couple of shots using the same powder, moving up .3 gr. per step, to the point where I feel the bolt lift start to become more than I like. For larger and smaller case capacities I vary the weight increment. A Hornet would have .1 steps, a .220-250 perhaps .4, and everything larger .5. As I shoot the test, I note how the increasing charges influence where the shots impact the target, paying particular attention to clumping , when two or more charges shoot close to each other. After I get to my slightly too tight bolt, or what ever pressure indication that I have chosen for the cartridge being tested, I pick my best looking cluster and load up a two round test of the middle charge, and shoot it as possible so as to have the best chance of getting off both shots in the same condition. If the result is good, I load more and shoot more test groups of larger numbers of shots. If it is not, I consider what change makes the most sense to try, load up a couple and try again. Usually, with a good rifle, I will get predictable results, but there have been times when I have had to drop back and punt. Bottom line, I start low and work up, seating near jam, so that I have a worst case situation, anything else that I try in the way of seating depth will have less pressure. I have not found that there is a significant pressure difference between near jam and jam. Once I have my charge limit, and a possible good charge, then I start experimenting with seating depth, usually all into the rifling by some amount. If I missed a lick anywhere in this, feel free to comment.
 
Great information everyone and thank you!

The main reason I am curious about a jammed cartridge, is simply because it is another tool in the reloading toolbox that might come in handy for helping with accuracy, should the need arise. Also, I wanted to make sure I completely understand the very definition of the term "jammed" and how powder charges need to change when jamming a bullet. Imho, common sense would dictate than any round jammed into the lands would automatically increase the pressure. However, common sense would not solve the question about powder charges listed in the reloading manual and using them with a jammed cartridge. I wasn't sure if I would have to use the lowest charge listed in the manual and take 10% away from the minimum for use with a jammed bullet to keep pressures down.

Thanks to you guys, I have a better understanding about jamming a bullet and tweaking the powder charges to remain safe.

I am not new to reloading, started in 1985, but am extremely new to precision reloading. Also, I do not expect to ever stop learning things related to creating and shooting precision loads which is what makes this hobby a real hoot!

Thanks again,

Shawn
 
In my experience, the lowest manual load should be safe for your purpose, assuming that you choose a powder that fills the case pretty well. I would not want to work with a heavy bullet (for a given caliber) and the fastest listed powder this way.
 
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