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Poor man's scope lever.

SSL

SSL

Gold $$ Contributor
Having been spoiled by the side-focus feature on my newer scopes, I realized that there should be an easier way to adjust parallax on my older scopes with adjustable objectives. All work quite well but could use assistance in moving them, let alone finding that ring without moving my eye from behind the scope. "Cat tail" type levers work fine for power changes but are too bulky for objectives. I have never seen this addressed nor have I seen any add-ons, so I decided to try an improvement.
What I ended up with was a standard cable tie pulled as tight as possible around the knurled part of the objective bell. Before cutting the tail I sacrificed the fastening end of a second tie and pulled it tight to the first. A little trim and I have an unobtrusive lever that is easy to find without looking and eases the force required to adjust without changing position behind the rifle. Doesn't look real professional, but it works.
Any one else have other fixes?
20181205_124127.jpg
 
SSL said:
Having been spoiled by the side-focus feature on my newer scopes, I realized that there should be an easier way to adjust parallax on my older scopes with adjustable objectives. All work quite well but could use assistance in moving them, let alone finding that ring without moving my eye from behind the scope. "Cat tail" type levers work fine for power changes but are too bulky for objectives. I have never seen this addressed nor have I seen any add-ons, so I decided to try an improvement.
What I ended up with was a standard cable tie pulled as tight as possible around the knurled part of the objective bell. Before cutting the tail I sacrificed the fastening end of a second tie and pulled it tight to the first. A little trim and I have an unobtrusive lever that is easy to find without looking and eases the force required to adjust without changing position behind the rifle. Doesn't look real professional, but it works.
Any one else have other fixes?
View attachment 1077606
Click to expand...
Great invention, just what I was looking for as I was bitching about a snug A.O. two days ago
 
Standard length (7-7.5 inch) work for power rings, but longer lengths are needed for objective bells. You also have the option of wider ties if you want by getting ties rated for higher strength limits. 50 lb. is pretty standard for the common ties, but those rated for 100 - 120 lbs. are quite a bit wider. This makes for a larger "knob" area too.
 
GREAT IDEA.....
Having been a truck mechanic for 43 years, I was constantly being severed by those pesky wire ties (when snipped off unevenly) when working under dashboards and tight engine compartments so I came up with a solution. After installing the wire tie, use a pair of either toenail or fingernail clippers and trim the tie off flush. Doing this will not only round off the end of the tie, but also give a finished look to your "Poor man's scope lever"
 
John Valencic said:
GREAT IDEA.....
Having been a truck mechanic for 43 years, I was constantly being severed by those pesky wire ties (when snipped off unevenly) when working under dashboards and tight engine compartments so I came up with a solution. After installing the wire tie, use a pair of either toenail or fingernail clippers and trim the tie off flush. Doing this will not only round off the end of the tie, but also give a finished look to your "Poor man's scope lever"
Click to expand...

Take a pair of wire cutters and grind or belt sand the back side smooth. There should be no bevel showing from the other side. Then cut the tywrap close to the latch part. Voila, no sharp edges!
 
I use these on my scopes. Simply tighten down and cut off excess length.... about $7-10.00 each




s-l400.jpg


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Breakaway-Plastic-Coasters-Sea-Fishing-/253091408896?hash=item3aed6c6c00
 
SSL said:
Having been spoiled by the side-focus feature on my newer scopes, I realized that there should be an easier way to adjust parallax on my older scopes with adjustable objectives. All work quite well but could use assistance in moving them, let alone finding that ring without moving my eye from behind the scope. "Cat tail" type levers work fine for power changes but are too bulky for objectives. I have never seen this addressed nor have I seen any add-ons, so I decided to try an improvement.
What I ended up with was a standard cable tie pulled as tight as possible around the knurled part of the objective bell. Before cutting the tail I sacrificed the fastening end of a second tie and pulled it tight to the first. A little trim and I have an unobtrusive lever that is easy to find without looking and eases the force required to adjust without changing position behind the rifle. Doesn't look real professional, but it works.
Any one else have other fixes?
View attachment 1077606
Click to expand...
And depending on how big you want the lever to be, I'm sure various sizes are available in those zip ties. Great idea really. Easy to replace and cheap. Should hold Rock solid also.
 
In the video world, lots of people are converting old 35mm manual lenses for use with MILC camera bodies to make HD video cameras.

One thing they add to a rig like that is a follow focus which allows them to adjust the lens more easily without shaking the camera.

To do that they have special zipties with a rack gear that the follow focus turns.

That might be the perfect piece for your objective bell. They are made for camera lenses which should be similar in size and shouldn't have a 90° bend at the ratchet section.
 
Try using heat once the left over tag end is cut. I use a propane torch very slightly and it melts the edges round by melting it ever so slightly. Gets rid of those dang edges that scrape everything they rub on. Too much heat and the zip tie will release.
 
284winner said:
Try using heat once the left over tag end is cut. I use a propane torch very slightly and it melts the edges round by melting it ever so slightly. Gets rid of those dang edges that scrape everything they rub on. Too much heat and the zip tie will release.
Click to expand...

It really helps if you find the ties with a metal locking tooth rather than the cheaper plastic one.
 
SSL said:
It really helps if you find the ties with a metal locking tooth rather than the cheaper plastic one.
Click to expand...
Never used them before. I have cases of the larger flex cuffs ( wrist cuffs ) but much too larger for this application. I'll have to look for the better metal clasp
 
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