Pinching the trigger with thumb on guard vs traditional hold...

[hpshooter]

"Certain rimfires I have are a different story and require a snap cap or a fired round for dry fire practice."

FWIW Anschutz at one time offered a shortened firing pin for the older 54 actions that allowed dry firing without the danger of damaging the chamber. Don't know if it is still available but easy enough to duplicate.

 

[savagedasher]

I have a model 70 with well over 100K dry fires on it and we'll over 10K rounds through it and I've never experienced any problems. Whe teaching my son or a new shooter about trigger control and the effect jerking or slapping the trigger has on crosshair movement. Never caused a problem. Certain rimfires I have are a different story and require a snap cap or a fired round for dry fire practice.

Valve float and valve chatter are not the same and the damage they cause is not the same either. Too much boost or backpressure for the springs to handle is another cause of float.

Complete motor destruction is the result . Larry

 

[DR1586]

I think dry fireing is very hard on fireing pin spring . And the firing pin . Larry

If it were, my 40x, Panda and Especially my model 70 would have gone through enough springs to fill a wheel barrow by now. Dry firing a center fire rifle is a great training method that allows the shooter to focus on mechanics and see what's going on during the shot process.

 

[Shynloco]

I have a worked 22-250, its a Remy 700 that's been blueprinted and wears a shilen. I have a Timney at 1.5lbs. I've been loading a long time and have narrowed down what my rifle likes. I'm no crack shot and I'm shooting at 100 from a bench. I'm having trouble holding the rifle perfectly still. I have a Leupold 6.5x20x50 on it and it is just a hunting rifle but I enjoy shooting and loading. I'm playing around with the pinching method and it seems to help but i'm wondering if my trigger weight is really too heavy for this method? Just wanted some opinions on the different methods used. I guess I just feel like my groups are more my fault than my loads and i'm looking for input. Right now, I'm shooting in the high 3's but i'm wanting .250" consistency....Thanks

In my experiences of shooting Benchrest competitions, the "pinch" trigger method is for rifles shot from a rest or even a bipod and is not used very successfully in a free/off hand shooting position. Just my .02 worth.

 

[savagedasher]

If it were, my 40x, Panda and Especially my model 70 would have gone through enough springs to fill a wheel barrow by now. Dry firing a center fire rifle is a great training method that allows the shooter to focus on mechanics and see what's going on during the shot process.

Never said it wasn't but why would someone not want a snap cap or a case with a prime in it . I like the snap caps . . But a fired case works also . Larry

 

[Geno C]

Complete motor destruction is the result . Larry

Not always. I've see and heard them just bump the valves on the pistons.

Dry firing on the other hand hurts nothing

 

[Ky Windage]

I do not like to dry fire any rifle, better safe than sorry, and use snap caps for rimfires but for the centerfire I take a sized case and fit a Pentel mechanical pencil eraser (which is just the right diameter) in place of the primer. Protects the firing pin and easy to replace if it gets damaged.

 

[Arkyvarminter]

In my experiences of shooting Benchrest competitions, the "pinch" trigger method is for rifles shot from a rest or even a bipod and is not used very successfully in a free/off hand shooting position. Just my .02 worth.

I never intended, nor never heard of, shooting freehanded while pinching. I was talking about bench only...

 

[expiper]

op,,,you have to watch that your thumb doesnt restrict the rearward movement of the rifle and bump the rear of the trigger guard and jump the rear of the rifle up and give you low shots and lots of vertical ,,,just saying,,,,this method was tried 40 yrs ago,,,Roger

 

[Olde Man]

While we are discussing dry firing I have noticed that my heavy varmit 30br black widow action moves the point of aim down about a 1/16" and to the right about 1/8" when dry fired. It is not always consistent and I have tried the pinch method and just a finger pull. I pull or squeese gently am almost surprised when the gun fires so I don't think that I am yanking or slapping the trigger. I am using a sinclair gen 1 front rest with a Seb front and big foot rear bag. My wrist is supported by the bag. Is the roll caused by the firing pin spring unwinding? Am I correct that this happens before the bullet leaves the barrel and what I am seeing is what I am getting. BTW the gun is shooting in the low 2's. Thanks for any help.

 

[Immike]

While we are discussing dry firing I have noticed that my heavy varmit 30br black widow action moves the point of aim down about a 1/16" and to the right about 1/8" when dry fired. It is not always consistent and I have tried the pinch method and just a finger pull. I pull or squeese gently am almost surprised when the gun fires so I don't think that I am yanking or slapping the trigger. I am using a sinclair gen 1 front rest with a Seb front and big foot rear bag. My wrist is supported by the bag. Is the roll caused by the firing pin spring unwinding? Am I correct that this happens before the bullet leaves the barrel and what I am seeing is what I am getting. BTW the gun is shooting in the low 2's. Thanks for any help.

The dry fire does what it does for you , but a follow thru is perhaps the best lesson to learn. This stuff doesn't leave as quick as we give up on it!

 

[stacy]

I USE THE PINCH METHOD,ITS WORKS FOR ME !!!!!!

 

[/VH]

I USE THE PINCH METHOD,ITS WORKS FOR ME !!!!!!

Last time I pinched, I got slapped.... Sorry (kinda), couldn't hold it back.

 

[Jammer Six]

This sounds to me like a vocabulary issue.

Unless you define what you're asking, it can be taken at least two different ways.

 

[/VH]

This sounds to me like a vocabulary issue.

Unless you define what you're asking, it can be taken at least two different ways.

I knew it had to be a vocabulary issue! No way it was an engine valve issue!

 

[/VH]

Sorry Arkyvarminter,

I didn't mean to cause a big derailment. I'm not a pincher so I can't offer any recommendations in that regard but it seems that a guy would have to figure out something to consistently do with that pinching thumb and finger after the sear breaks. I don't know what; maybe keep holding on, kinda limp wristed like and don't use the term 'float' when you mean 'chatter.'

Honestly; I'd pay attention to and work with what Mr. Boyd Allen is telling you (us).

 

[Link]

I used the "pinch" method early on in my BR comp.days. It was the first correction my mentor made to my shooting form. I now shoot with my wrist supported by a separate sand bag and my index finger lightly brushing the stock as an anchor point.
Best thing you can do to overcome that roly poly fore-end in the bags is to use an accuracy asset ( R.W. Hart) or Sinclbenchrest adapter airs with a new front bag. Other than that upgrading the bags ( please tell me their not Caldwell) and playing with their hardness and (as Boyd said) place the front bag closer to the action.

Where is the best location to mount the adapter on a floated bedded factory stock?

thanks

 

[1shot]

To the original poster and others. I shoot NRA L-R and M-R. That said, I was given several options in trigger management more years ago than I will admit. As a sling shooter I use a variant of the "pinch" method you bench shooters are talking about. It is simply placing the thumb of the trigger hand on the tang or center of the stock, (where ever your hand falls naturally). Mentally then physically, pinch between your trigger finger and your thumb. Notice I didn't say grab, jerk or any other sudden movement. Press the trigger in a straight and steady movement directly to the rear until the rifle fires, while continuing the gentle positive press. (follow through) Dry fire in your house if possible without distraction and visually GLARE at the reticle to detect any movement. As one of my instructors always said. "This is A way,not THE way "
I hope this helps,

Lloyd

 

[danny]

I used the "pinch" method early on in my BR comp.days. It was the first correction my mentor made to my shooting form. I now shoot with my wrist supported by a separate sand bag and my index finger lightly brushing the stock as an anchor point.
Best thing you can do to overcome that roly poly fore-end in the bags is to use an accuracy asset ( R.W. Hart) or Sinclairs benchrest adapter with a new front bag. Other than that upgrading the bags ( please tell me their not Caldwell) and playing with their hardness and (as Boyd said) place the front bag closer to the action.

Right now, all I have is one of the Caldwell front bags for my wider forends. They are a kind of vinyl top. I use a drier sheet or a piece of shopping bag plastic to make the rifle slide more easily. Are they really that bad? I have purchased a leather Protektor bag for my sporter stocks and plan to do the same when replacing this Caldwell.

Danny

 

[LHSmith]

Where is the best location to mount the adapter on a floated bedded factory stock?

thanks

They mount to the front sling stud. They are long enough that you play with the distance between front and rear bag.