Pictures of your Lathe Setup

[DaveTooley]

I notice that Shenwai to the left of your table, I just picked up one of the Taiwanese belt drive lathes which is in excellent condition as a second lathe, the lathe was made by Wey YII Corp that make the Microweily lathes

Empire Electronic Drone

Provide you with high-quality drones and drone equipment so that you can create solutions that make your work easier, or allow you to drive drones for more fun

www.microweily.com.tw

That lathe looks almost identical to the 12X36 Jet I started with in 1983.

 

[Sniperhandle]

I notice that Shenwai to the left of your table, I just picked up one of the Taiwanese belt drive lathes which is in excellent condition as a second lathe, the lathe was made by Wey YII Corp that make the Microweily lathes

Empire Electronic Drone

Provide you with high-quality drones and drone equipment so that you can create solutions that make your work easier, or allow you to drive drones for more fun

www.microweily.com.tw

I really enjoyed that Shenwai, I wish I still had it. Very capable lathe.

 

[Greg Y]

I moved from a 48x60 to 36x28.....and it's tough to fit everything. I need to have a massive sale, but I am always nervous about people knowing what is behind that door.

not seen is the sawing, grinding and welding areas.

 

[RCE1]

My Clausing 5914. It was lovingly cared for by its previous owner. Came with a staggering array of tooling. 7 chucks. 50 Aloris blocks. Pneumatic steady rest. I was really blessed.

 

[urbanrifleman]

My Clausing 5914. It was lovingly cared for by its previous owner. Came with a staggering array of tooling. 7 chucks. 50 Aloris blocks. Pneumatic steady rest. I was really blessed.
View attachment 1550102

Can you post a picture of your steady rest?

 

[RCE1]

Can you post a picture of your steady rest?

Hardware store and MSC kinda thing. The brass contact pads are sacrificial. Powered with a little pancake compressor next to the lathe.

 

[Judd]

A lot of cool shops…I’ve bought a mill drill but it’s not moved here yet, it’ll be in the right corner from this picture. My only regret, I should’ve epoxied the floor before I moved in. Eventually I’ll put the air in the ceiling too.

 

[Machinist John]

Turn the lathe this way against a wall and you may build shelving. Saves a lot of steps in the shop.

Switch mounted on the underside of the shelf controls the coolant pump for the muzzle flush system, A 10-gallon sump is on the floor behind the lathe.

Note the barrel vise just to the left of the headstock. Also saves a lot of steps.

Bushings just behind the barrel vise. Another step saver.

Reamers, pilot bushings and other barrel tooling just to the right of the chambering lathe.

Precision hand tools across the 4 ft aisle from the chambering lathe and just to the left of the 13x36 utility lathe. Huh??? Step saver.

Brute force and ugliness, I learned gun work on those nasty P14 and P17 Enfield's.

Getting that silly lug properly aligned on the M700.

Time is money in the machine shop, be it a hobby shop like mine or a big commercial shop like Jacki's.

Have fun guys, we machinists are a disappearing breed.

 

[gary ocock]

Nice shop set up.

 

[Kiwishooter]

That lathe looks almost identical to the 12X36 Jet I started with in 1983.

Dave there are many versions of the belt drive lathe from Taiwan and many different name tags on them.
I got the manual and sales brochure with this one and the manufacturing date of the lathe is 1985, it's in better condition than the photo shows, it's a 11x24 which is what I was looking for. Next is to build a decent stand for it.
I notice from the sales brochure that they were also available with a D1-4 spindle nose which would be far better than the screw on spindle nose.

When you had yours what problems did you find? Mike Bryant said his one didn't leave the nicest finish in back gear and some say the feeds are a bit course.

 

[Sniperhandle]

Dave there are many versions of the belt drive lathe from Taiwan and many different name tags on them.
I got the manual and sales brochure with this one and the manufacturing date of the lathe is 1985, it's in better condition than the photo shows, it's a 11x24 which is what I was looking for. Next is to build a decent stand for it.
I notice from the sales brochure that they were also available with a D1-4 spindle nose which would be far better than the screw on spindle nose.

When you had yours what problems did you find? Mike Bryant said his one didn't leave the nicest finish in back gear and some say the feeds are a bit course.

The 11x24 Taiwan Belt Heads are very rare here in the States, I have a seen a few, But they are few and far between. I don't know that they were sold here, But brought here by people moving here and such. The 12x36 is the most common, Then the 12x24 and then the 10x24.

 

[LVLAaron]

View attachment 1550189
A lot of cool shops…I’ve bought a mill drill but it’s not moved here yet, it’ll be in the right corner from this picture. My only regret, I should’ve epoxied the floor before I moved in. Eventually I’ll put the air in the ceiling too.

My next shop will have epoxy floors, before anything else.

 

[X Count]

If you want a really good floor do one coat of thin epoxy and once it's tacky put down a high build epoxy. 24hrs later put down a coat of urethane with hand cast kiln sand for grip and once it's nearly dry do a other coat of urethane.

The epoxy stabilises the concrete and the urethane / sand gives you a surface that is really easy to clean but still has a lot of grip. If you don't throw the sand evenly and end up with bare batches the urethane finish alone is slippery AF!

 

[boltfluter]

If you want a really good floor do one coat of thin epoxy and once it's tacky put down a high build epoxy. 24hrs later put down a coat of urethane with hand cast kiln sand for grip and once it's nearly dry do a other coat of urethane.

The epoxy stabilises the concrete and the urethane / sand gives you a surface that is really easy to clean but still has a lot of grip. If you don't throw the sand evenly and end up with bare batches the urethane finish alone is slippery AF!

I can relate to the slippery AF statement. Went to make a hard left turn in my shop one day in a hurry. Seems there was a light coating of coolant on my newly epoxied floor! Looked and sounded like a NASCAR wreck we so enjoy on the boob tube! A little sore for a few days but makes me laugh at telling the story.
Paul

 

[DaveTooley]

Dave there are many versions of the belt drive lathe from Taiwan and many different name tags on them.
I got the manual and sales brochure with this one and the manufacturing date of the lathe is 1985, it's in better condition than the photo shows, it's a 11x24 which is what I was looking for. Next is to build a decent stand for it.
I notice from the sales brochure that they were also available with a D1-4 spindle nose which would be far better than the screw on spindle nose.

When you had yours what problems did you find? Mike Bryant said his one didn't leave the nicest finish in back gear and some say the feeds are a bit course.

Like Mike I couldn't get a good finish. Even when turning. Speculation was the single phase motor causing it. But it didn't affect the finished product. When I moved up to my little Nardini speeds and feeds increased greatly. Along with different tooling.

 

[X Count]

I can relate to the slippery AF statement. Went to make a hard left turn in my shop one day in a hurry. Seems there was a light coating of coolant on my newly epoxied floor! Looked and sounded like a NASCAR wreck we so enjoy on the boob tube! A little sore for a few days but makes me laugh at telling the story.
Paul

Hahaha yep! I work in the food processing industry and we need something that can be cleaned hygienically but doesn't become slippery with spills and during wash down. Previously we used epoxy then a glass reinforced paint which was pretty good. Would be great in a workshop but for us the surface went a bit chaulky in the sun and absorbed product and made it harder to clean.

 

[urbanrifleman]

The two set up so far. My Acer is not set up.

 

[Greg Y]

Everything in my shop was paid in cash and it all started with $600.00 spent on a 6x36 atlas that came with more tools than I will ever wear out. I sold that lathe and bought a hardinge chucker for $500. I never even got it hooked up when my 1440 showed up on clist at a shop near nightforce. Carl from black hole barrels bought my hardinge paid enough to buy the 1440 and half of my mill. I had purchased a cross for the chucker and sold it for the rest of the mill.

I managed to trade some tools into my surface grinder and the new hermes.

I did pay for the heavy 10 after I called the guy and told him he was WAAAAY under priced on it. I didn't need a second lathe but my wife was tired of me moping around whining about the collet chuck and made me buy it. It came with a truck bed full of tools and a adrian oliver drill grinder. I sold a few chucks and such to recover my investment.

As it sits today I will never need anything except some threading inserts between now and death.

 

[Greg Y]

Turn the lathe this way against a wall and you may build shelving. Saves a lot of steps in the shop.

Switch mounted on the underside of the shelf controls the coolant pump for the muzzle flush system, A 10-gallon sump is on the floor behind the lathe.

Note the barrel vise just to the left of the headstock. Also saves a lot of steps.

Bushings just behind the barrel vise. Another step saver.

Reamers, pilot bushings and other barrel tooling just to the right of the chambering lathe.

Precision hand tools across the 4 ft aisle from the chambering lathe and just to the left of the 13x36 utility lathe. Huh??? Step saver.

Brute force and ugliness, I learned gun work on those nasty P14 and P17 Enfield's.

Getting that silly lug properly aligned on the M700.

Time is money in the machine shop, be it a hobby shop like mine or a big commercial shop like Jacki's.

Have fun guys, we machinists are a disappearing breed.

That's the first time I've seen the mag box used. Thanks for the picture....that just made my life easier.

 

[Greg Y]

Here's my time saving tip for bolt handles. I use a hougen annular cutter in a collet to make a one pass cut that can be followed by a 5/16 die.