Picatinny rail mounting question

[hoz53]

Got a 1 piece steel picatinny base to mount on a Rem700SA. When I snugged the rear screw down,with a strait edge on the rail, there is about .030 clearance between base and front receiver ring. I have heard of using Devon,jb weld ect for a case like this but I decided to make a steel shim for it since I thought it would be sturdier. This proved more difficult than it first appeared. I kept trying different thickness shims checking the base with strait edge but never quite got it where the base was perfectly flat when action screws were snugged down. Anyway can anyone describe to me how to mount this base on the rifle flat using Devon ect? Sounds easier to me. Thanks much

 

[BigDMT]

Same way you bed a barreled action. Apply KIWI Neutral shoe polish to the top of the action as a release agent, rough up under side of the rail with 80-120 grit sandpaper, apply bedding to prepped spot of rail, fasten rail to action, wipe away all excess bedding that got squeezed out with moist rag and Q-tips, let dry for 48 hours, remove rail and clean up sharp edges of bedding with an Exacto knife and a light touching of 320 grit sand paper to edges if needed.

 

[walley2960]

Not trying to start anything. My preference would be to apply the release agent to the action instead of the rail. Maybe there is good reason to do it the other way? If there is I would be curious to the reason.

 

[BigDMT]

Not trying to start anything. My preference would be to apply the release agent to the action instead of the rail. Maybe there is good reason to do it the other way? If there is I would be curious to the reason.

You are absolutely right sir. That was my error. Wasn't thinking clearly I suppose. I'm a little tired after a long days work. Good catch, I'll change my post

 

[Gundoktr]

Sounds like you got the wrong base. I can't believe there would be that much difference between the front and rear bridge. If it is the "correct" one, send it back with an explanation.

 

[Laurie]

The advice I was given on this job is to use a household two-tube epoxy glue sparingly and avoiding the retaining screws. Tighten the screws only to the point where excess glue is forced out as they're being used as much for location as retention. Don't worry about release agents except on the screws and screw holes - if you need to remove the rail subsequently, apply a hot domestic clothes iron to the rail's top surface for a few minutes and the heat breaks the epoxy down to allow rail removal.

 

[armistemjim]

take that action out of the stock and check it sounds like you are twisting the action if that is the right base. or if you don't want to romove and check loosen the rear action screw. i have seen your problem more from bad beding than bad mounts. also brownells make a good shem set for those problems and you don't mess up your action with epoxy. i just had to heat a set of screws to remove someones attempt to do the bedding trick.
preacher Jim

 

[dooley]

If it is a 20MOA i piece mount, they sometimes give you screws all the same lenght with instructions that the first 2 screws nearest the barrel should be cut down, see if this is the case before buying shims or bedding.
Regards, dooley

 

[hoz53]

Thanks for the replies guys. They have definately given me some ideas I hadn't thought of. I was thinking about bedding the base with Devon ect. by putting release agent on the front action ring, scuffing up the base and applying it thick on the front action ring and only tightening the rear screw so it would form a pad the thickness I needed to keep base strait. I just wasn't sure how to get the correct thickness, so I decided to use steel shims. I saw them in brownells and I think I would buy them instead of making them again. I did not know if the .030 gap was common so this was good to find out. The base is a Warne I got from brownells and I think it's right one but will double check. It's a standard base. I never thought of the action warping in the stock. That could be as its a synthetic with the aluminum bedding block. I will pull the stock to find out. Mabie I need to bed the stock first. Thanks again