Painting a receiver

[spudgun]

I was looking at the Brownell's website for different types of paint to use on a pistol receiver.

Kinda of confused as they offer about 4 different types of coatings.

Anyone suggest a good one that you have used?

Just want to two tone one of my guns.

I do have access to a spray gun or use rattle can.

 

[shortgrass]

Proper prep the key to any coating job. Otherwise, you may as well use 'rattle can'.

 

[DHall_37]

This rattle can stuff from Desert Fox sales worked alright for me.

 

[Just Say Moe]

I used this with good results - Alumahyde

 

[shoobe01]

Agree entirely. Good prep, and also cure. Hang the parts, wait 10-14 days without TOUCHING it. Cures hard, lasts forever. If you can sandblast, that's awesome, but just very, very, very good degreasing is usually enough.

Any paint and careful application (light coats! no drip!), but if you can get Gillespie (sold by RAPCO easily as the mil colors) that's awesome. Also had terrific results with MyPerfectColor paints, when I got some RAL coded paints to match my SIG556/551.

 

[rebel]

Dura coat

 

[jds holler]

Is it steel or aluminum? jd

 

[Herzo]

I have etched aluminum using muriatic acid in preparation for a duracoat finish. Rinse and dry thoroughly prior to painting. Etching requires only about 10 to 20 seconds.

 

[boltfluter]

Cerakote is very hard to beat, if you are set up to spray it. The toughest stuff I have seen to date.

Paul

 

[Ringostar]

As mentioned prior. Look into Duracoat. It’s also made close to you in Chippewa Falls.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

As mentioned prior. Look into Duracoat. It’s also made close to you in Chippewa Falls.

Duracoat gets a bad rap, I think because it has always been sold as a DIY product. As others have said, prep is the key. Cerakote is good but done properly, IME Duracoat is just as good. Parkerizing first, makes the best base for duracoat. It's a good product like that. I've done them for the 3 gun guys who toss the guns into steel bbls and onto asphalt or gravel when changing guns and the stuff holds up to that. I don't think you can ask for much better. I've also seen it perform poorly due to improper prep. My 2 cents, sandblast, parkerize, degrease thoroughly and rock on with the stuff. It's a tough finish. Aluminum presents other issues for most any paint product and it can't be parked but it can be sandblasted and degreased. It oxidizes almost immediately though and can have poor adhesion from that.

 

[wedgy]

I have done quite a few with Duracoat using the disposable Preval sprayers from Lowes/Home Depot. It cleans up easily with brake cleaner. I have a "good" spray gun but the Preval works fine and I don't have to worry about cleaning it. Once you mix it you have plenty of working time to do several coats and it's easy to sand and touch up a scratch if you need to.

Lauer Custom Weaponry DuraCoat Firearm Finish Ultra Flat Tactical Dark

DuraCoat's unique combination of chemical and water resistance, adhesion and abrasion resistance, hardness and impact resistance are legendary....

www.midwayusa.com

Preval Sprayer (2-Pack) 0225 - The Home Depot

Visit The Home Depot to buy Preval Sprayer Pro-Pack 0225

www.homedepot.com

 

[shoobe01]

...Parkerizing first, makes the best base for duracoat...

A lot of steel-era military firearms finishes are parkerizing plus some sort of paint on top. All those Sterlings and L1A1s etc, that's their rugged go to war finish. Their paint was very rugged but also toxic as all get out. Suncorite is still made, but good luck getting any and I personally won't spray it on even if I had some. Death awaits. Think of self-applying CARC if that helps.

More modern paint (of many sorts but if you like Duracoat: go for it) will do wonders, should be as strong and less deadly.

If anyone does this, parking straight to the paint station. You've already done the prep, and once dry (and with heat: it dries fast) the parkerized surface is as ready to paint as a thing can be. Just handle it carefully, do not get any fingerprints, etc on it. Ideally, pick it up from the tank by the hook you'll leave on for painting and curing, never touch it anywhere else at all.

Test apply the paint you use. Some go on well on warm substrate, some evaporate too fast and do not do well at all. I'd go so far as to sandblast and park a piece or three of scrap metal, pull them first and paint, see how it goes, and use that as the guide for the actual gun.