On the subject of bronze brushes versus nylon.
- Thread starter big5ifty
- Start date
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
When you mount a brush on a rod turn the rod to make sure that the brush in lined up with it. If it is not bend the brush so that it is. This is pretty basic stuff, but I think that it is good to mention this sort of stuff for the benefit of new shooters. Also, any cleaning of a barrel that is on a bolt action should involve the use of a cleaning rod guide. The best of these guides feature a separate piece that stays on the rod, that plugs into the back of the main guide to make the rod fit better and better control alignment.
Consistent diameter, brass core with the wire loop at the top and they are very straight out of the package and stay that way throughout their life (stiffer wire??). They also use oversized bronze bristles that seem to outlast other brands brushes. Brass threads and couplings are a huge plus. The aluminum ones suck and are always coming unscrewed when you use them. There are other reasons but those are the keys for me.
Dave
Progress Update :
I got to a point yesterday where the penetrating oil and the bronze brush didn't dirty the patches any more, but I could still see streaks of buildup in a few places.
I read the labels on the bottles of solvent that I have, and the Shooters Choice said it dissolved cardon. The instructions also say to use a bronze brush. So I followed those instructions, except I waited around 30 minutes to patch out each time after applying solvent and brushing, and I got black patches again. After just 3 sessions, the patches were markedly lighter.
The first time I tried the Shooters Choice for this rifle, it did nothing, but it was applied with a nylon brush.
With the bronze brush it's doing it's thing. I'm at the bottom of the bottle with it though, and it's a small bottle.
I got to a point yesterday where the penetrating oil and the bronze brush didn't dirty the patches any more, but I could still see streaks of buildup in a few places.
I read the labels on the bottles of solvent that I have, and the Shooters Choice said it dissolved cardon. The instructions also say to use a bronze brush. So I followed those instructions, except I waited around 30 minutes to patch out each time after applying solvent and brushing, and I got black patches again. After just 3 sessions, the patches were markedly lighter.
The first time I tried the Shooters Choice for this rifle, it did nothing, but it was applied with a nylon brush.
With the bronze brush it's doing it's thing. I'm at the bottom of the bottle with it though, and it's a small bottle.
I use a small carpenter's square to check alignment of the brush with the rod. By carefully rotating the brush in the rod with the square positioned against the rod you can detect alignment issues.
Works pretty good. Even high-quality brushes like the Dewey no harm brushes should be checked. I've found an occasional one that needs straighten, especially in the smaller calibers.
AckleymanII
Gold $$ Contributor
Almost every brush I have ever used needed some straightening.
CharlieNC
Gold $$ Contributor
The first decision is to decide what clean means to you. Until patches come out clean, until accuracy deteriorates, until a bore scope shows it's clean, so the clean/cold bore shot is close enough, etc you get the idea. Then it's a rather straight forward exercise to develop a cleaning system.
FNSafari
Gold $$ Contributor
As CharlieNC says, what does clean mean to you? To me it means no evidence of copper left in barrel after using a good copper solvent and patches. I do use a bronze brush right after two wet patches, primarily to loosen carbon.
Carbon tends to build up, mostly, just in front of the case and in the first few inches of your barrel. You really need a borescope to look and see if its still there. If so, I use JB Paste on a nylon brush wrapped with a patch to work it out of this area. Any copper solvent I have used just doesn't get it all out. If you don't have a borescope, a regular routine of JB after a match might be in order. My shooting matches generally run 60 to 80 shots depending on yardage. I shoot IBS score matches. Good luck with whatever you deceide to do.
Carbon tends to build up, mostly, just in front of the case and in the first few inches of your barrel. You really need a borescope to look and see if its still there. If so, I use JB Paste on a nylon brush wrapped with a patch to work it out of this area. Any copper solvent I have used just doesn't get it all out. If you don't have a borescope, a regular routine of JB after a match might be in order. My shooting matches generally run 60 to 80 shots depending on yardage. I shoot IBS score matches. Good luck with whatever you deceide to do.
DaveTooley
Gold $$ Contributor
Chemicals, time and a good bronze brush are your friend. I soak( applied with a brush) and then run a brush maybe 5 strokes to break loose any softened material. Then I patch out.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Now you know why we grow tired of telling folks they have to clean with a bronze brush. Using a nylon brush is just practicing.
jackieschmidt
Gold $$ Contributor
I’m not sure if you have ever been to a Short Range Group Match, where the majority clean after every group.
If you haven’t, you might rethink that not pulling the bronze brush back through.
The Q5 mentioned earlier, would it also have a benefit of seasoning the barrel with graphite? I was going to get some Kroil but the Q5 sounds like it could also work.
Did a quick search but doesn't seem available in the U.S. I assume any other penetrating with graphite would work the same?
Did a quick search but doesn't seem available in the U.S. I assume any other penetrating with graphite would work the same?
Last edited:
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Stroke it til youre satisfied. Unscrewing the brush assures your name being called when you dont make it to the line for your next group
jackieschmidt
Gold $$ Contributor
It is amazing how we can still shoot those sub .200 Aggs after destroying the barrel with that bronze brush pulled back and forth about 20 times.
Clancy
Silver $$ Contributor
Watching short range guys is how I learned to clean. I still watch my buds clean like they’re changing the diaper on a newborn. I love cleaning barrels, and I do it like I’m mad at them.
I can't say if there is any graphite left in the barrel after using it myself because I use other solvents after. If you give a squirt after cleaning and patch dry, there will definitely be a some graphite left in the barrel.
In my cleaning, using the bronze brush is the critical part. The penetrating spray can be replaced with Butch's Bore Shine or Boretech Eliminator, or even Ed's Red.
centershot
Silver $$ Contributor
When I use Shooter's Choice, I angle the rifle on the bench when done shooting. Muzzle slightly lower. I squirt the solvent into the barrel and let it run out. This takes a few minutes. Then I invert the rifle to let the solvent run to the other side of the barrel. I let this sit and then brush it out. A few dry patches and then a patch with Kroil on it. Let it sit a while and then an under sized patch to get rid of the excess Kroil.
jelenko
Gold $$ Contributor
What does the bore look like afterwards?
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