Hey folks, I haven't been reloading for a while but got back into it. I've been studying anealing and have to ask because I have not gotten an answer. I have some 5-6 times shot/ reloaded brass. They are hot .243 loads, I've had some necks split during FL sizing. Would it pay off to aneal what I have or toss it and start the anealing process with a new batch of brass? I've had more loose primer pockets on a medium charge in my 6.5CM than I have split necks on the .243. Any help from you guys would be great, thank you!
Old brass case anealing?
- Thread starter Chuksniper
- Start date
If the brass is still not cracked annealing will only help.
Thanks for the reply riflewoman, was hoping to hear that.
5 or 6 "hot" loads out of a 243 can take it's toll. Annealing can help the neck and shoulder area.....but, I would be more concerned with what the web area looks like than any annealing of necks so they don't crack on resizing!! I think if they were mine I'd toss them, 243 brass is neither rare nor expensive. I mean, which is worse??? Necks cracking while you are resizing the cases at your bench or a case head separation while you are firing the rifle??
If you really feel like you need to use it then sacrifice one and split it down the middle and have a look at that web area and see just how stretched and thinned down it appears.
If you really feel like you need to use it then sacrifice one and split it down the middle and have a look at that web area and see just how stretched and thinned down it appears.
As for ‘pocket stretch’: I’m of the opinion that, if you use LR brass you get better case head life starting out with reduced load profiles than if you go ‘hot’ from their first firing.
Concept is based on the characteristic of brass to harden through working; every time you fire a case the head gets walloped with a pressure increase that serves to harden it.
If you start with reduced loads this effect tends to help keep pockets tight longer ‘cause you’re not subjecting them to pressures high enough to cause head stretching until brass in head has been hardened when they’re better able to resist these forces.
Of course you can always switch to SR brass, as I’ve mostly done.
Concept is based on the characteristic of brass to harden through working; every time you fire a case the head gets walloped with a pressure increase that serves to harden it.
If you start with reduced loads this effect tends to help keep pockets tight longer ‘cause you’re not subjecting them to pressures high enough to cause head stretching until brass in head has been hardened when they’re better able to resist these forces.
Of course you can always switch to SR brass, as I’ve mostly done.
I recently experienced this even with small rifle primers on new 6.5x47 Lapua blue box brass. I knew better but tried to work up a load for new barrel and expanded the case head on the upper ranges of powder charge.
Chris
D-4297
Gold $$ Contributor
Think I'd use the old 243 brass to practice my annealing skills , if you aren't going to shoot them again . What do you lose besides some time and LP gas .
@duanepa ; Get them annealed . I had some old Win brass for a 7.62x54r that I had annealed , and I'm now using it in my F-Open rifle with a rather stout load . Going on 15-16 firings now and look good . Ancient Chinese secret : Much of the older brass was actually made with better quality material than some of the new stuff is today .
@duanepa ; Get them annealed . I had some old Win brass for a 7.62x54r that I had annealed , and I'm now using it in my F-Open rifle with a rather stout load . Going on 15-16 firings now and look good . Ancient Chinese secret : Much of the older brass was actually made with better quality material than some of the new stuff is today .
How well does your die’s neck ID match your chamber’s? Moving brass as little as possible but still chambers freely is the key if you’re not already annealing. If neck brass is being moved much beyond 003” back’n’forth....
I used a bushing FL die. It is a very minimal resizing, body and neck, otherwise I doubt if it would have made it this far. I did lose one to a neck crack. New brass isn't out of the question, just kind of a small batch to "send out" so, not sure if it is worth the effort...
Lots of info here, D-4297, I think I will use the old brass to practice and order more new to go with my once fired. what is the pros and cons of SRP brass vs. LRP brass?
Just call DJ brass service.
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