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odd headspace rem 700

Did you get this fixed? It sounds like the same problem I had with a PTG bolt that had the face machined .030 off center. A go gauge is a loose fit for diameter, so it would just move over to accomodate, but the rim of a piece of brass would rub hard on the inside of the bolt nose.
 
Did you get this fixed? It sounds like the same problem I had with a PTG bolt that had the face machined .030 off center. A go gauge is a loose fit for diameter, so it would just move over to accomodate, but the rim of a piece of brass would rub hard on the inside of the bolt nose.
the bolt nose was not concentric, I brought it down and it is fine now.
 
One 700 PSS that came through a few years back had a Rem factory chamber that was off-center of the barrel. Been a few years so the memory is fuzzy, but when barrel was pulled and measurements made the chamber was eccentric to the tenon by about .030". Came that way from Big Green! Would close fine on a Forster go gauge because the gauge has some relief in the body just in front of the head allowing it to toggle a little in the chamber, but would not close on a round. Something worth checking.
 
and it chatters as its going down almost like the bullet of the round is into the lands and there is also some brass
on the bolt face.

Any thought on how to check this??

Yes I have a thought; if the bullet was contacting the lands when the bolt was closed the beginning of the rifling should have imprinted on the bullet and the chatter could be cause by the bullet crushing the powder.

And there is a good chance all of this interference fit could cause the bullet to be pulled when the case was extracted.

You did say the bolt was stripped.

F. Guffey
 
One 700 PSS that came through a few years back had a Rem factory chamber that was off-center of the barrel. Been a few years so the memory is fuzzy, but when barrel was pulled and measurements made the chamber was eccentric to the tenon by about .030". Came that way from Big Green! Would close fine on a Forster go gauge because the gauge has some relief in the body just in front of the head allowing it to toggle a little in the chamber, but would not close on a round. Something worth checking.

Jim was asked if he reamed the chamber; he said "Yes"

If the reamer was a piloted reamer with out a wiggle joint, how did the reamer make the curve?

F. Guffey
 
... verify bolt nose OD clearance and nose to barrel ....!

Based on what you are describing, this is the first place I would check. Also, some Remington bolts have a very slight fillet at the front of the lugs at the bolt nose. A chamfer or some kind of break on the outside edge of the counter bore is necessary to allow the bolt to close on an otherwise properly dimensioned bolt nose/C'bore fit.
 
Could the reamer you used not have enough freebore for the bullet you are using? As in the bullet hits rifling before the bolt is closed?
 
the bolt nose was not concentric, I brought it down and it is fine now.

What does this mean, for the bolt nose to be concentric? I found your thread by searching for the symptoms I'm experiencing. I'm pretty sure this exact issue is happening to me. Was yours a remage setup? I have a Rem 700 LA with criterion barrel with remage barrel nut. Same exact symptoms.
 
take your barrel off and see what is rubbing inside the counterbore. Paint it with a magic marker, reassemble and see what scratches off. If it is the bolt nose that is not concentric, I'll examine and if possible fix it for free if you pay shipping since I'd like to see the issue. But that is probably not the problem.

It is most likely the counterbore of the barrel that is too tight and might involve an M-16 style extractor.

Commonly what happens is a barrel is built for a rem style extractor. Standard bolt nose on a rem 700 is about .698 and the counterbore on the tenon is .708. This is usually enough clearance and keeping it tight is a designed in safety feature to choke the flow of gases during a case failure.

However, if you intall an M-16 style extractor, it has raise up above the OD of the bolt to go over the rim. often the bolt just won't even close since it can't get over the rim with the extractor captured inside the tenon. The counterbore has to be opened up a lot to clear the extractor. Since shipping barrels is expensive, it would be best to find someone local to open up the counterbore.

--Jerry
 
7mm-08 rem Hornady american white tail
I have had 2 rifles recently that bolts were hard to close with Hornady Superperforomance SST 270 Win. I check them with my RCBS case mic and had a positive .003 head space reading. Then I resized them with my Redding body die problem solved. Hope this hepls Mike
 
Hey Jerry,
Thanks so much for your detailed response!

I should have included more info. This is my first semi-custom build and I've put hours of research into picking the right components according to purpose and budget, so now that I'm facing this kind of issue is pretty demoralizing.

My action and bolt are stock (rem style extractor, not M16) other than lapped lugs and receiver face squared from Northland Shooter supply. It's a long action, but my criterion barrel is a match throated .243 bull barrel (long action for seating bullets out longer and for more options down the road for switch barrels). My barrel is a 28" heavy heavy barrel and completely free floated, so I'm wondering if the barrel is causing the action to distort and bend from the weight?
All this to say that it's not an M16 extractor, all Rem stock bolt and action, with remage nut set up. Choate tactical pillar bedded stock, don't know if that may be part of the issue with the barrel totally free floated after the recoil lug.
 
I have had 2 rifles recently that bolts were hard to close with Hornady Superperforomance SST 270 Win. I check them with my RCBS case mic and had a positive .003 head space reading. Then I resized them with my Redding body die problem solved. Hope this hepls Mike

Hey Mike,
I plan on eventually reloading and bump sizing cases to fit perfectly, but I'd like to shoot factory ammo for a while before I'm able to get fully set up for reloading
 
The other option is the counterbore isn't deep enough. or the tenon is too long and rubbing on the front of the bolt lugs. Do the magic market thing.
 
The other option is the counterbore isn't deep enough. or the tenon is too long and rubbing on the front of the bolt lugs. Do the magic market thing.

Thanks everyone! When I get my bolt back from Dan in Alaska for timing, I'll magic marker up and shout back on what I find. I'm guessing I need to color the entire bolt nose and outside surface and lugs, along with the entire case and bullet?
 

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