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odd headspace rem 700

Hello all,

I have an odd situation, this is my first 700 I have done numerous savage with the nut.
when setting my head-space the bolt falls into place with the go gauge (literally no force just falls in
just a little down pressure at the end) and does not close with the no go gauge, seems good
right? so when I put a factory round in I have to literally push the bolt down to close, and it chatters as its going down almost like the bullet of the round is into the lands and there is also some brass
on the bolt face.

Any thought on how to check this??

Thanks
Jim
 
jim, set up a size die with your go gauge, size a piece of brass and try that.
make sure to grease your bolt lugs. chatter when closing the bolt typically results in galling the lug seats of your action.
 
Hello all,

I have an odd situation, this is my first 700 I have done numerous savage with the nut.
when setting my head-space the bolt falls into place with the go gauge (literally no force just falls in
just a little down pressure at the end) and does not close with the no go gauge, seems good
right? so when I put a factory round in I have to literally push the bolt down to close, and it chatters as its going down almost like the bullet of the round is into the lands and there is also some brass
on the bolt face.

Any thought on how to check this??

Thanks
Jim
. there are always tolerances-- if you just handload you can leave headspace set as it is and size your brass down enough so the bolt closes easily. if you wanna use those particular factory loads youre going to have to set the headspace a little longer.
 
What he said ,^^^^^ THIS^^^^^ and what brand of trigger? Some push worse than others and 700 raceway slop varies too.
 
Remington-Walker-Trigger-Infographic.png

For lack of a better diagram/photo, here's a graphic showing Remington 700 angled sear engagement. When cocked, it causes rear of bolt to be lifted. Front of bolt, i.e bolt nose, if not enough clearance in the counterbore, binds. Too much slop in the raceway bolt lug unloads. There are others but as Gary (above) posted, minimum clearance can cause bolt closing issues.
 
The trigger is not in yet, this is a stripped bolt.
I would never load a live round in the shop with the bolt fully
assembled

What cartridge is it? What brand of factory round did you try? I've had factory rounds bind in a custom chamber before. I would try another brand.
 
You said stripped bolt , but did it have an extractor ? If so check to see if it's clean and still got flex . Did you blue the case or bolt to see rub marks ?
Check your action screw , base screws , etc . The cartridge could be offsetting your bolt ( very , very little ) if the base isn't a true 90 deg .
Or it's simply a case issue . Try new cartridge , disassemble it of course and see if the problem still exists .
Blueing the bolt and case will show any problem areas
 
You said stripped bolt , but did it have an extractor ? If so check to see if it's clean and still got flex . Did you blue the case or bolt to see rub marks ?
Check your action screw , base screws , etc . The cartridge could be offsetting your bolt ( very , very little ) if the base isn't a true 90 deg .
Or it's simply a case issue . Try new cartridge , disassemble it of course and see if the problem still exists .
Blueing the bolt and case will show any problem areas


Yes it is stripped. it is a one piece PTG bolt .708 dia. the only thing on it is the
bolt handle no ejector or extractor.
I actually put blue on it, and it was rubbing in the counter bore.
the bolt nose is not the same dia. narrow it's .698 heavy its .702.

I will also try the case and see if it is strong to one side. to make sure its
concentric with the bore.

Thank you all for your help
 

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