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Next Generation Varminter

I have built 2 varmint rigs lately with chassis. I think they are harder to shoot accurately for some reason until you get used to it. The Oryx was a drop in with no issues, but an MDT was giving me a lot of vertical until I bedded (skim) it.
 
I have built 2 varmint rigs lately with chassis. I think they are harder to shoot accurately for some reason until you get used to it. The Oryx was a drop in with no issues, but an MDT was giving me a lot of vertical until I bedded (skim) it.

A little bit of valve grinding compound usually can fix a lot of ills without having to bed.
 
I have built 2 varmint rigs lately with chassis. I think they are harder to shoot accurately for some reason until you get used to it. The Oryx was a drop in with no issues, but an MDT was giving me a lot of vertical until I bedded (skim) it.
This article is the only one that talks about exactly how different chassis "interface" with the action. https://www.recoilweb.com/stocking-...e-featuring-seven-popular-options-155396.html

There are two methods, v-block and radius. I quote:

V-blocks can create a fulcrum point where the action body radius tapers at the tang, as evidenced by the tang diving, tip-down, when the rear action screw is tightened. The hotspot can deform some actions enough to cause bolt bind or other issues. Another method is radius bedding. Instead of the action riding on two rails, radius bedding means the bedding block is cut to match the bottom radius of the action. The increased contact area improves stability on actions that are well-machined and adhere to their expected diameter specs. Bottom line: Radius bedding offers higher performance, while V-blocks are more forgiving of out of spec actions.

You can still bed a chassis to solve problems, as you have done, but it's good to know how other manufactures solve the problem. I use a KRG Whiskey 3 which uses radius bedding.
 
I saw Kenny Jarret's PERSONAL prairie dog gun while at the shop the other day.. He had just gotten back from the annual week shooting DOGS in Wyoming.. Before going this year we were talking about previous yrs. He said his personal best long range hit was 811 yds. The action is an older 40X Remington single shot. lts fitted with a 24'' strait taper JARRETT barrel with brake. The stock used in past yrs is a flat bottom benchrest style WOOD. This yr he chose an MPA chassis topped with a KAHLES 10-50x50 scope. Now for the real SHOCKER!
Gun is a plain old ''223Rem''. Barrel twist is 1 in 14". Preferred bullet is 50gr BlitzKing.
Last couple yrs its been 50gr VMAX. Sierras are unavailable.
 
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So, I must tell you this story.

I took the Splitter 2 out to test the barrel. Normally, I shoot 6 Tubb bullets and then clean, and then test. This is my normal break in. Well, I forgot my cleaning rod so I thought I would just shoot for velocities and ignore the groups.

The longer I shot it the smaller the groups got.

It is a 6bra 50 freebore 8 twist. Top velocity was 3350 and I never hit pressure. The powder is Alliant TS 11.

3330 (30.5 grains) was the fastest with a great group.

It shot bugholes at 3175 to 3250 (29-29.6).

Those two groups were the last two groups I shot. No cleaning. About 50 rounds down the tube.

The Jet Blast Muzzle brake is freaking awesome.

Oh yah. It was 107 degrees and the wind was from 3 o'clock.
 
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I'm going to take the 30.5 charge and do a seating depth test. Then, depending on how that turns out I'm going up to 30.8 and 31.1to see if I can get some more speed.
 
Those 85 grain Sierras have always been an accurate bullet, a good all around field bullet too. Has Sierra made any recently? I’m down to less than a box.
Gary
 
Same bullets 160 freebore.

Considering the need for some jump, I have come to the conclusion that for the 300 thou neck (same as 6br) 160 freebore is ideal for 80 Berger and up.

I have also come to the conclusion that more freebore is way better than less.

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