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Newbie need Help Please

First of all, Great Site!!! I have been referencing this site for a while, and finally joined up.

I've got a Savage target action in a SSS Benchrest stock w/ a McGowen 30" BB chambered in 6BR, 1/8 twist. It is a .271 no turn w/ a .06 free bore.

My local range is limited to 300yds, and I shoot in local "bring what you got" and "egg shoot" matches.

I'm looking for advise on Fl die vs Neck die with bushings. I am using Lapua brass very lighted turned to catch any high spots,Maybe a 1/3 of the brass gets shiny). I use a Wilson Micro seater, and currently have a Forster bump die w/ .286 and .287 bushings.

I'm looking for a FL die, and was considering the Harrels, Redding "S", or going the Forster route and having them open up the neck area for me. Any suggestions as to which way to go?

Should I stick w/ the bump die, or go the FL route? Confused on which would/should give me better results.

Also, what bullet weight / brand suggestions do you think will work best at this distance? I've had decent luck with the 105 Scenars, but haven't shot the Berger VLDs yet. Getting around .3 w/ the Scenars at 100,105gr Scenar .015 in the lands, 30gr Varget, CCI450, Lapua Brass). I've got both Varget and RL15 to play with.

Thanks for the help in advance,
Bill
 
Bill,

You will need a F/L die sooner or later. I use one after each firing. I like Harrels die the best. They can match it to your chamber, just sent them a few cases.

Try Bergers 105 VLD,s and 108 BT, Hornaday 105 Amax, Sierria's 107BT.

At 300yds you my look at a good Flat base bullet, like Bib's or even a 80 or 88 gr Berger. The lighter bullets will shoot in the 8tw.

I am using RL 15 in my BR now with Fed 205 108 Bregers.

Mark Schronce
 
I also think this is a great site and like Bill i too am very new to the sport, so new in fact that i have zero reloading experience. I do however have a 6 BR on a Sendero action i am not sure what the tw is but i do know it is a very tight neck 262, and no I do not want to enlarge it. I have a Wilson seating die as well as a Wilson neck die but i have no idea what else i will need. I was planning to get an arbor press and it was suggested that i get a FL die. I want to do it right. I would ask the person who built the rifle but they have passed away and this was a gift to me from the family. I also have about 8 rounds of unfired ammo if that can get me started but i did not want to shoot that because i figured it would be a good reference. Sorry for such a long intro but i need help..

-John
 
John,

We a patch on your cleaning rod, mark the top with tape, push it thru, see how many inches it takes to make a full turn, that is your twist.

See the above post for heavy bullets and dies.

For a 14 tw use N135 or benchmark powder and a good benchrest bullet, Berger, Barts, Bib's, etc. most are good bullets.

Pull one of the bullets and see what it weights.

Harrel makes a combo press, with arbor and threaded side. by have the die you could just get a redding body die, but you will need both type presses or a combo.

Search on this website for load data.

Mark Schronce
 
Mark,
Thanks for the help. I am curious though the person who built this rifle was very methodic and detailed, i know you hear that alot) but what would be the reason for him not having a FL die? As i stated before all that i have is a seater and a neck die. One other note about the press, i never hear of anyone going to the range with a combo press, is that because most people prep before they go to the range and the only step left is weighing and seating??

-John
 
Probably the biggest reason for the tight neck, and no full length die, was wayyyy back when, they believed that was the high dollar ticket for winning. Back then it may have been, but times change and the new stuff is working way better than anyone dreamed of.
Ask if there are any records concerning the load data, any one as meticulous as he may have been would keep very good records of that, if not pull the loaded ammo apart and check, and measure all the components.
Some people load develop at the range, some don't, it's a personal thing I guess...
 
Mark,

Thanks for the quick feedback. I've got a box of 105 VLDs on the shelf that I'll give a try. I haven't had access to BIBs before, but they look like a good idea.

Will my 8 twist stabilize the 108gr BIB and Berger?

I guess I'll get the Harrels die and use it every time instead of neck sizing only. Sounds like that would take the least amount of time if the groups stay tight.

John,

You can learn a lot from the loaded rounds IF they were made for that particular gun. Seating depth, powder charge, loaded neck o.d., etc... Make sure you use a chrono if you ever decide to shoot any of them so you can match the velocity with the same powder or others. I used this same process to reverse Engineer my load for the Lapua 105s. I bought a box of factory Lapua 105gr, and chrono, measured, measured, measured to put me in the ball park. i'm shooting in the high .2s-.3s with my first batch of reloads.

Take Care,
Bill
 
Thanks Preacher and Bill,
I will begin to figure this out, i believe i have to spend some money now for tools so as soon as i get my act together i will get back to the site.
-JF
 
Bill,

Check with BiB's on the twist, it may be too much for them. I have seen the bib's break up when pushed too hard. But in the right twist and speed they work great. I have a 10tw 6BR that loves the 95gr Bib's. The 8 works great for the rest of the bullets.
Set the F/L die just to bump the shoulder back 0.001" of so, not a full hard F/L size, and it will shoot the best like that. you want to feel just a little tightness as you close the bolt.

JF,

You may not need a F/L now, but the BR likes to be run hot, it's where they shoot the best). For now if one gets tight put it to the side. But if you get one tight in a match, it will be out of the group and off the mark. I use a Harrel arbor press and a RCBS Partner press for the F/L die, all setup to load at the range. Harrel also makes a very good threaded press.

Mark Schronce
 

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