Ever time I use the ball the resistance it takes changes the shoulder also . Any donut that is there it moves the outside of the neck also . Larry
Never had that problem but I will watch for it. Only once I remember resizing a .308 and the case got stretched out too long. I may not have used lubricant, may have been over annealed, or it may have had a donut.Ever time I use the ball the resistance it takes changes the shoulder also . Any donut that is there it moves the outside of the neck also . Larry
Easy to check. Pull the ball and shaft out, size a case and measure the outside of the neck, then do it again with the ball in place on the same case.I used to set them up in a block to spray way back but I didnt notice any issues when I switched to the bag and shake method but the bag and shake method is way less hassle to me plus it keeps my blocks from getting nasty with multiple sprays building up, it used to get to the point that I hated touching them or having to wash them. I already do let the lube dry, shoulders dent too easily if you dont. I never thought about dipping the necks first and then putting them into the bag to spray but I dont know why it couldnt work. Surely the dry lube has enough stick still to handle a tad of jostling while the outside gets coated.
I have the normal nonhoned redding full die, dont have any measurements here accessible right now for what my brass goes to but it squeezes them down to minimum saami spec or there abouts, something like .008 smaller than my expander ball just pulling what could be crap number out of the back of my mind which is "too much" but it also has never been an issue until this point and I have 20 firings on some of these remington brass pieces and 10 on all my lapuas. Thats why I use the expander ball. I never noticed any issues with concentricity thus far and doughnuts arent an issue. Its only now post anneal that Im having an issue.
But I think it got pinned correctly as what used to be a good naturally existing carbon lube is now a cooked on crusty diamond lube. I just didnt think that it would change it that much but I guess 750 degrees is quite hot. The little smokes that come out the necks should have been my first indicator that its enough to cook the stuff.
Here is an instructional video from Sinclair on their Imperial dry lube:I used to set them up in a block to spray way back but I didnt notice any issues when I switched to the bag and shake method but the bag and shake method is way less hassle to me plus it keeps my blocks from getting nasty with multiple sprays building up, it used to get to the point that I hated touching them or having to wash them. I already do let the lube dry, shoulders dent too easily if you dont. I never thought about dipping the necks first and then putting them into the bag to spray but I dont know why it couldnt work. Surely the dry lube has enough stick still to handle a tad of jostling while the outside gets coated.
I have the normal nonhoned redding full die, dont have any measurements here accessible right now for what my brass goes to but it squeezes them down to minimum saami spec or there abouts, something like .008 smaller than my expander ball just pulling what could be crap number out of the back of my mind which is "too much" but it also has never been an issue until this point and I have 20 firings on some of these remington brass pieces and 10 on all my lapuas. Thats why I use the expander ball. I never noticed any issues with concentricity thus far and doughnuts arent an issue. Its only now post anneal that Im having an issue.
But I think it got pinned correctly as what used to be a good naturally existing carbon lube is now a cooked on crusty diamond lube. I just didnt think that it would change it that much but I guess 750 degrees is quite hot. The little smokes that come out the necks should have been my first indicator that its enough to cook the stuff.
Easy to check. Pull the ball and shaft out, size a case and measure the outside of the neck, then do it again with the ball in place on the same case.
Any lube in the necks will get baked on. They should be cleaned first.
Why is a expander ball needed? If the internal size needs to be bigger don't size the od as much. Larry
How is it if I was going to ship you anything it would be some expander ball . lol LarryWell then you pay me to ship a die to you for you to hone out to the proper dimension and then ship it back or buy me a new die with bushings. Until that point in time I will continue to use the expander ball for the obvious reasons that we've already gone over in the thread.
I use carbide expander balls on my neck sizing dies and have never found a need for lube. Some lubes will hold dirt and dust particles that can scratch both the ball and the shell. The carbide expanders came with instructions to keep them clean and not to use lubricant.
How is it if I was going to ship you anything it would be some expander ball . lol Larry