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Sounds to me like you put in a good chamber.....except for the neck clearance..... .0005" is not enough..... your reamer is ground for neck turning..... as far as improving accuracy with a better stock.... here`s what I`ve found...years ago I needed an excuse to buy one of those cheap rem. 700`s ...they had on sale for 350$ after rebate... I chose the varmint model in .308.... put on a good scope,shot off bags,I loaded up 20 rnds.of 168 gr.smk`s... shot 5 with clean new gun,lapped barrel shot 5 more,lapped bore again shot another 5... each step showed improvement,gun went from 1.25 moa to .75 moa...last step was to put gun into an H-S stock.... It helped.. the gun shot the last group into .5 moa.....I was looking for some experience with a question. I built a 6BR on a Stiller Tac-30 action and a new barrel blank that I cut threaded,chambered, crowned, ect...I threw a scope on it and slapped it in a cheap factory Remington/Hogue stock that was touching barrel when I rest it on bipod. I just wanted to test it out.
With factory ammo I shot 4 groups of 5 rounds after a few break in/cleaning routine. All 4 groups, 2 with suppressor, 2 with muzzle brake all measured 1/4 to 3/8 MOA.
I have a McMillan A-5 stock on the way for it, my question is, when I get it bedded and free float barrel, will it improve groups at all? If it's already doing 1/4 MOA, is it worth trying to reload for it?
I have read a lot about crappy guns improving with bed jobs, but wondering if I'm just wasting time and money for a stock and competition dies that may not really improve nothing. I'm not sure I am capable of shooting better than 1/4 MOA off my bipod anyway.
Thanks,
I have an older .22BR reamer designed for an oal of 1.520. So, when the 1.560 brass came out instead of trimming .040 from brass I simply ran the reamer in .040 deeper. I call it my .22BR Long. Very fast and deadly on coyotes. Something a little different.
Regards, Paul
www.boltfluting.com
Paul, explain this to me. Are you actually making a .040 longer body?