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New build

I was looking for some experience with a question. I built a 6BR on a Stiller Tac-30 action and a new barrel blank that I cut threaded,chambered, crowned, ect...I threw a scope on it and slapped it in a cheap factory Remington/Hogue stock that was touching barrel when I rest it on bipod. I just wanted to test it out.
With factory ammo I shot 4 groups of 5 rounds after a few break in/cleaning routine. All 4 groups, 2 with suppressor, 2 with muzzle brake all measured 1/4 to 3/8 MOA.
I have a McMillan A-5 stock on the way for it, my question is, when I get it bedded and free float barrel, will it improve groups at all? If it's already doing 1/4 MOA, is it worth trying to reload for it?
I have read a lot about crappy guns improving with bed jobs, but wondering if I'm just wasting time and money for a stock and competition dies that may not really improve nothing. I'm not sure I am capable of shooting better than 1/4 MOA off my bipod anyway.
Thanks,
 
With your set up and what we will call limited rounds, your rifle shot great. What the McM will do is remove that variable of the flexible stock for when you are shooting longer strings.
 
Yup Butch , imagine if he starts reloading for it ! That's factory stuff shooting that good , I would NOT touch a thing . I fact I'd go out and buy a crate of the same lot # of ammo .
 
I already bought a pile of Varget for it and some Berger 105 vld's & hybrids, also CCI br4 primers.
I guess if I can't get them to shoot, I know the 105 Lapuas will work.
Couple people told me my chamber is too tight. My brass comes out measuring same as it went in as loaded round. I am using straight factory ammo, in a no turn neck chamber, but there is only about .0005" clearance on neck.
I chambered it specific for the ammo I had, it fits perfectly with very little pressure to close bolt handle, but a go gauge will not chamber. Is this normal of benchrest quality chambers?
Thanks
 
i measured reamer and loaded round with vernier micrometer, reamer was .0005" to .0006" bigger than loaded round on average. I could only get about .0001" run out on chamber when I measured it after chambering, considering movement of spinning chuck by hand.
I would say giving difference in neck size of brass, I would still be less than .001" on most cases.
The neck size is not important part I'm wondering about, that can be turned and changed, I was wondering more about the headspace to shoulder not fitting go gauge. If I went any more on head space, my bolt handle would just fall freely with case in chamber. This would cause excessive play that I would think is undesirable??? In my mind, wouldn't the more play cause inconsistency in accuracy??
 
If you make it go on the go gage your brass will fit perfectly after theyre properly fireformed to the chamber. Its not common practice to chamber a barrel to fit brass- you make the brass fit a proper chamber. And i believe you would want a little bit more clearance on your neck than .00025 per side. If you was to put your hand on that barrel for 3 mins you wouldnt have any clearance when the heat expands it.
 
Thanks for the replies guys, I will take your advise if I run into any issues of sticky cases, so far I have not experienced any problems, everything buttery smooth. I have only got about 30 rounds down barrel, have to wait till I get back home to put her new McMillan clothes on.
Planning on doing two 6.5x284's next, it will have a .297 neck, so it should have plenty of clearance there. I will go deep enough to chamber go gauge and see how accuracy holds up.
Just curious, I know there are a lot of good smiths on here that try all kinds of different ways to squeeze accuracy out of projects, has anyone else shot a chamber like this?
Thanks
 
I don't want you guys to think its way off, as far as I can tell, I'm guessing around .001" short of bolt handle flopping loose on go gauge. I can put go gauge in chamber and with about 2 to 3 lbs of force I can close bolt fully on go gauge. With factory ammo, bolt handle almost closes on its own.
I've never worked with any benchrest actions, but I always hear how tight they are on tolerance and keeping them clean, would this amount of clearance I'm explaining be within spec? Sorry, should have gave a little more information to begin with, just didn't want to write a novel.
Thanks
 
It has nothing to do with what action you use. I always set the headspace to close about halfway with no pressure on a go gage so youre ok there. I would get more neck clearance tho
 
You don't want to close the bolt on a go gauge with pressure, just let the bolt close naturally from gravity. The gauge is hardened, your chamber is not.
 
Yes, Stripped. No ejector, no firing pin. I thought I might get some good useful feedback from some of the top gunsmiths that cruise this forum about this subject, but I can see this thread is dying fast.
I know people do what's comfortable for them to understand, that's human nature to not sway from the pack, just wondering has anyone done test that they documented to show things to help/hurt accuracy? If you would rather talk to me personally, you can send me a PM and I'll give you my phone number. I know there are some that don't post because of possibility of ruffling feathers. I'm open minded to new ideas of any subject you'd like to discuss of things you've tested that works or didn't work. I enjoy working on projects that are a little different, some times you fail, but sometimes you stumble onto the next best thing like my chainsaw chain on weed eater.
Thanks,
 
I have an older .22BR reamer designed for an oal of 1.520. So, when the 1.560 brass came out instead of trimming .040 from brass I simply ran the reamer in .040 deeper. I call it my .22BR Long. Very fast and deadly on coyotes. Something a little different.:cool:

Regards, Paul

www.boltfluting.com
 

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