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new 6br ir not?

I bought a savage fclass 6br last year r9 play with.i like shooting it but not happy with accuracy. i have tried multiple load combinations with the beat results being .5" at 100 yards. My Ruger RPR does better.

So my question is this. Is it worth rebarreling this? I also do not like the trigger. I've got a couple aftermarket triggers on other savage rifles in I'm not thoroughly impressed with those either.
Is it worth going forward with this rifle or would I be better off selling it and getting something else?

All All opinions welcome
 
@Alex, yes my ruger is legit sub .5 at 100 yards. Shot off a rest and rear bag, 5 shot groups. Measured with on Target software. maybe I am of a little but if so its operator error and not cheating. i started with that, then had a custom 6.5x47 built. i can shoot better with it, with multiple almost one hole, 5 shot groupsif I do my part.

So are you saying (and I am asking) that I will not be able to get a factory rifle to shoot soub .5moa? If that is what you are saying, what would you reccomend? a new custom build? a proven used rifle feom the classified? I shoot less than 1k per year and it would be f local f class competions with a very occasional BR competion just for fun.
 
A true sub .5 moa factory rifle is rare. If that's what your after the only way to grauntee it is a custom build. At minimum a quality barrel. You may get lucky like you did with your ruger, but the odds are against it. Your savage will do .5 moa if you have a good barrel installed.
 
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Ok, Just thinking out loud.

I can get a barrel for what what? 400. Then a barrel nut. im close to 5. I dont like the trigger and as I have been sitting here playing around and looking and reading, I dont see an aftermarket trigger that is adjustable bellow 1#. so even if I adjust it to one pound, my experience is nothing works well when operated at the max.

So I am thinking I should sell it and move on. perhaps sell the dies, brass, rifle and glass as a package and get a new rifle, berhaps a dasher?

Hummmm!!
 
Criterion barrel is $340, and the nut is 25 bucks or use the one you have... Or you could get a Shilen if you want ot stay in that range.

The Sav-2 savage trigger is 4 oz and is as good as my Jewel.
 
Have had experience with multiple Savage target rifles, both custom and factory . Right now trying to get a friend's Savage target trigger below 12 oz and not de-cock. Last two I had were nothing but trigger horrors. One I could get around 9 oz and be reasonably reliable. Another I gave up, sourced a custom. modified Accutrigger that pooped out around the same 9 oz and later got unreliable at that. Rifle Basics is a serious danger. It does not de-cock. It FIRES. Wasted $155 and seriously threw it into the garbage after trying and trying and consulting and trying.

Just played with one a fellow wanted to buy. It was a custom Bostrom Savage and that trigger was 7 oz and worked well. Lowest and best I have seen except for one Fred at Savage Shooter's Supply did. That takes a year of waiting but his trigger will get into the 4-5 oz. range. They can shoot well, for a Savage.

Never will they be able to run quickly or easily remove the firing pin and spring to check leade, A new barrel might be under $400 but you have to pay to chamber the thing and learn to headspace it by buying and learning to use the proper tools. Sure there are pre-chambered ones but a custom spec. chamber is sketchy unless you pay the right gunsmith to do it.

The difference between a Savage target action and a good Stolle Panda or BAT is probably $700 if you source or buy judiciously. The Kelbley Stolle and BAT come with a lifetime of satisfaction. The Savage comes with a lifetime of crude workability. Stocks and barrels are all the same. The pride and satisfaction of a fine rifle with good "bones" is priceless.
 
That $400 Savage barrel is threaded and chambered and swapping Savage barrels is easy. An action wrench, nut wrench, go/no go guages and a hammer to whack the nut wrench with and anyone can do it.

Triggers I guess are a matter of perspective, I get along with the accu triggers or the rifle basics triggers and plan on installing a SSS trigger on a NOS flat back LA single shot tomorrow.

If you want to ditch the Savage and upgrade to whatever else that's your choice but you're greatly exaggerating the "downside" to the Savage.

All of my Shilen & Criterion pre fits shoot WELL under .5 with proper load development. I have several.
 
I have 4 Savage Precision Target Actions I use for varmint and target. Criterion pre-fit barrels, Rifle Basix SAVII triggers. The worst one is .4 MOA (Agg), the other three often group in the 1's or 2's and honestly Agg at .3. I'm being conservative with these accuracy claims.

These rifles all have 1" barrels, are bench use only and weigh in the neighborhood of 16lbs. The RB triggers are adjusted to 4oz or less as measured by a highly accurate tension guage. One of the triggers trips between 2 and 3 ounces. It works consistently but the bolt on a light RB trigger must be closed slowly and deliberately. I never close the bolt on a live round unless I'm ready to shoot.

I'm into these rifles for around $1300 each. Bottom line is Savage can be a great solution for someone that demands accuracy for certain disciplines and doesn't want to sell the farm to get it.
 
FWIW :Another Barrel Nut fan... learned on one and have built several more on target actions since. All of them are accurate rifles 600/1000/1760yds. Can be Fun learning to switch barrels/calibers.
NO ...they’ll never cycle effortlessly and tracking on a rest will always be a little off cuz of that wonderful sloppy bolt.
But if you get a name barrel chambered by a good gunsmith ( Thanks Jay) and an accurate set of dies it SHOULD shoot very well.
As far as trigger groups are concerned never cared for the accu-trigger, ended up using the SAV 2’s and have been happy ever since.
Competition is just that $$$^ ...Someone should start a “SAVAGE” class at a weekender just for bragging rights !
 
I bought a savage fclass 6br last year r9 play with.i like shooting it but not happy with accuracy. i have tried multiple load combinations with the beat results being .5" at 100 yards. My Ruger RPR does better.

So my question is this. Is it worth rebarreling this? I also do not like the trigger. I've got a couple aftermarket triggers on other savage rifles in I'm not thoroughly impressed with those either.
Is it worth going forward with this rifle or would I be better off selling it and getting something else?

All All opinions welcome


I'm in agreement with Alex. Get a new or used custom action. In your case, what happens if you go to the expense of a new barrel and chambering..... and the reason it won't shoot for you now is somewhere in the bolt, trigger, or action itself. "Factory" rifles are a crap shoot to buy for competition purposes. JME. It's a shame when people spend substantial money on a new factory rifle and it doesn't shoot from the get go. WD
 
Ive talked my self into it. goi g to liok for a used rifle or perhaps a build.

Its not that it won't shoot. .5moa is good I get that. i was hoping for better thats all.
 
First of all, what sort of accuracy are you looking for?
What kind of load development are you doing? You mentioned near max, it sounds to me like you look too hard at velocity in doing your load development if indeed you have an organized process.
What sort of rest, bags and bench are you working with, and what scope? Are you using wind flags?
Putting this in perspective, back in the day, tuning up Remington 700 rifles with triggers that while adjusted and tuned were well over a pound and factory sporter barrels, with actions only skim bedded and dies that were not nearly as good as I use today, I would expect a .222 or .223 three to put five shots into about 7/16 or a bit better under the best conditions. If you want the best trigger options sell your rifle and get one that has them. But if you think that the trigger is holding you back perhaps it is because you have come to the erroneous conclusion that bench shooting is properly done with very light to no contact. That is simply not the case, and when you shoulder a rife and spend some time learning how to squeeze your trigger so that you are not precisely sure when the rifle is going off and having good follow through you may be surprised how well you can shoot.
 

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