I recently did a scope trade with a member on this forum and may have got burned. I traded a Sightron 45 fixed power for a Sightron 10-50x56 adjustable power, while the scope is perfect and seems to work ok there is an issue with the side focus and I'm not sure if its suppose to be that way. I can adjust the focus from a 50 yard target to a 300 yard target in a fraction of an inch of movement. The dial has no numbers on it but it does have equal spaced lines on it about 3/4 of the way around it and I'm talking about getting all that yardage focus in like .060 thousands of movement of the dial, a very teeny tiny amount of rotation. I think this is not right. Playing around with it we get 50 yards to 1400 yards of focus in less than two lines on the dial, so its either messed up or Sightron put marks all around that dial for the hell of it or I'm doing something wrong??
Needing help from a Sightron guru
- Thread starter Lefty Trigger
- Start date
Why don't you call Sghtron custmer service? I found them to be helpful and responsive.
I don't have any 10-50's, but on my 8-32's, I use most of the adjustment range for the yardages you mention.
I haven't returned a scope to Sightron yet, but I understand they have excellent customer service. If you can do without it for a couple of weeks, I would suggest you send it in for a complete checkout.
I did return a scope to Vortex for a problem I "thought" I had. And I was blown away by their service, effort to evaluate the condition, and testing they did. And even though my scope had no problems, and I was out in left field with my analysis, they were cordial and it was an excellent experience.
I have never found the numbers on scope parallax adjustments to have any connection with reality.
Here, I drew a picture showing what is going on with the dial. No numbers on the dial just marks with the last having the infinity symbol. You can see the very little rotation from 50 yard to 300 yards and a known 1400 yard marker at our range.
That's kinda the plan as the target season is coming to an end then they will have all winter to check it out. I was hoping it was something I was not getting right with it, and also that I did not get taken on the deal.
While they have it, if your side focus knob is super stiff like most, they can apparently fix/adjust it so it’s not so hard to turn.
-Rick
-Rick
Ranger188
Silver $$ Contributor
I had a 10-50 and did the same thing. My current 8-32 is almost a bad
Very small window to eliminate parallax. I think thats why their "target" versions
have that big wheel on them. Easier to fine tune it.
You can hardly ever reference the numbers on the parallax adjustment
of any scope manufacturer.
https://sightronusa.com/riflescopes/siii-field-target-series/
Very small window to eliminate parallax. I think thats why their "target" versions
have that big wheel on them. Easier to fine tune it.
You can hardly ever reference the numbers on the parallax adjustment
of any scope manufacturer.
https://sightronusa.com/riflescopes/siii-field-target-series/
mikeeg02
Michael Glantz
Nobody did you wrong. That's probably the biggest complaint on them. I have two 10-50s, and they both are the same, along with a few friends that have them too. You get used to it.
The benefit to it, is generally it the target is in focus, the parallax is correct, if not perfect. While most the other scopes I've used have a wider focal range, the scope usually needs more adjustment so the parallax is correct.
The benefit to it, is generally it the target is in focus, the parallax is correct, if not perfect. While most the other scopes I've used have a wider focal range, the scope usually needs more adjustment so the parallax is correct.
Coyotefurharvester
Silver $$ Contributor
Page 12 of my stac booklet, side focus adjustment. Adjust down from infinity mark till the image is in focus and parallax free. The front focus or the diopter corrects for your eye the focus or view of the reticle.
mikeeg02
Michael Glantz
You're supposed to move your head and verify the parallax is dialed in. Once that is correct the target should also be in focus. The eye piece is used to put the reticle in focus as well.
As I mentioned earlier, one of the positives of the sharp adjustment on the 10-50s is usually once the target is in focus, the parallax is also dialed in. But you still have to move your head and verify. Most of the other higher end scopes I have, and have tried generally have a wide focus area (using the side focus) making dialing in the parallax extremely critical. IMO the 10-50s are a little more "foolproof", and a great scope.
As I mentioned earlier, one of the positives of the sharp adjustment on the 10-50s is usually once the target is in focus, the parallax is also dialed in. But you still have to move your head and verify. Most of the other higher end scopes I have, and have tried generally have a wide focus area (using the side focus) making dialing in the parallax extremely critical. IMO the 10-50s are a little more "foolproof", and a great scope.
Just my $.02 but over the years, seems if you get the rear focus correct on the cross-hairs, the parallax and image focus seems to all fall into place as you would want it too. Took me a while to figure that one out but has seemed to work for me ever since I've started working it that way.
Focus the cross-hairs via the rear ocular then try parallax reduction to the point it's at it's minimal. If the whole image isn't in focus, go back and refocus the the rear cross-hairs again.
Focus the cross-hairs via the rear ocular then try parallax reduction to the point it's at it's minimal. If the whole image isn't in focus, go back and refocus the the rear cross-hairs again.
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