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Need some advice on bolt rifle build

707electrician

Silver $$ Contributor
After having a couple of rifles built off of factory Remington 700 actions, and having built several AR pattern rifles, I decided my next rifle would be a full custom bolt action along the lines of a PRS rifle.

I started doing my research and making a list of parts, and I have been slowly gathering the parts on my list. I purchased an Impact 737R to kick off this build, and knowing I wanted to do a 6mm, I ordered a Bartlein 6mm barrel blank. Eventually, I had narrowed down my caliber choices to 6CM and 6Dasher and ordered a case of Berger 109 LRHT after waiting and waiting for them to show up in stock. Even though 6CM brass was available while Dasher brass was nowhere to be found, I was still trying to decide between the two when, one day, I got a stock notification on Peterson 6 Dasher brass, so I made up my mind and ordered a case while I had the chance.

Now here I am, I have the action, barrel blank, bullets and brass, the next thing I want to do is send the blank off to be chambered, and this is where I am hitting a road block. Since my gunsmith only has one Dasher reamer, and wanting to take full advantage of this being a custom build, I have decided that the best thing to do would be to order my own reamer. Unfortunately, the more reading I do on the matter, the more the waters get muddied.

I started reading the forum to try to ascertain what freebore works best for this bullet, but it seems everyone has a different answer so it sounds like the best way to go about having a reamer made would be to make up some dummy rounds to send to the reamer manufacturer. My question is, where do you start? Isn't this just a chicken vs. the egg situation?

Where do you start? When you are making up dummy rounds to send if to have a reamer made, how are you determining where to seat the bullets at? I don't want to seat too deep and take up case capacity, but too shallow and there wont be enough neck contact to keep the bullet seated properly, and I am assuming this could easily lead to inconsistent ammo. So how much neck contact is enough?

What came first, the chicken or the egg? So after you have determined the best compromise between case capacity and neck contact, how does that information help you? I assume if you were to just send these dummy rounds off to your reamer maker, they would grind your reamer to fit that dummy round, but we know that some bullets shoot better jammed into the rifling and others prefer to jump some distance to the rifling, of course you need to test seating depth by actually shooting the rifle. Thus the paradox is that I need the reamer to be able to shoot, but I need to shoot to figure out the best reamer dimensions.

Long story short, I need some guidance from those on the forum with experience on how to order my reamer properly. I appreciate any advice you have to offer.
 
When you are making up dummy rounds to send if to have a reamer made, how are you determining where to seat the bullets at?
Generally speaking, optimal seating depth for boattail bullets is with the top of the boattail seated even with the neck/shoulder junction.

Generally see .125-.150 freebore for the Dasher but I have limited experience with it compared to some here.
The dummy round you send will also be used to determine neck diameter so be sure to check consistency of loaded rounds and allow for largest diameter if brass is inconsistent and you're not turning necks.
 
Generally speaking, optimal seating depth for boattail bullets is with the top of the boattail seated even with the neck/shoulder junction.

Generally see .125-.150 freebore for the Dasher but I have limited experience with it compared to some here.
The dummy round you send will also be used to determine neck diameter so be sure to check consistency of loaded rounds and allow for largest diameter if brass is inconsistent and you're not turning necks.
By top of the boat tail do you mean the junction between the boat tail and bearing surface?
 
I would seat the bullet at the neck/shoulder junction and measure the distance need to be close/25 thou off the lands - then go check the freebore on your smiths reamer to determine it's suitability, then go order on if necessary. My BR has 120 thou freebore.
 
I took the dimensions for the case and the bullet and drew them up in AutoCAD to try and help me figure this out.

If I were to seat the bullet just to the neck/shoulder junction, there would only be about 40 thou of neck contact, this doesn't seem to me like it would be ideal. Also, by my calculation, this would put the freebore at almost half an inch.

2021-11-07 (1).png
 
I took the dimensions for the case and the bullet and drew them up in AutoCAD to try and help me figure this out.

If I were to seat the bullet just to the neck/shoulder junction, there would only be about 40 thou of neck contact, this doesn't seem to me like it would be ideal. Also, by my calculation, this would put the freebore at almost half an inch.

View attachment 1291442
that's way too far out, most will put the fire ring (the transition where the boat tail meets the bearing surface) just above the bottom of the neck. I can say from personal experience and much testing that unless you have a donut issue with your brass, seating the bullet below that point does not harm accuracy, also a freebore that works with a wide variety of bullets is usually a better way to go (especially in these times)
 
By top of the boat tail do you mean the junction between the boat tail and bearing surface?
Yes, your CAD has bottom of boattail there...

Another "rule of thumb" is one bullet diameter as seating depth.
All cartridges vary, and bullets vary in bearing surface- so there's no hard/fast rule here.

Cartridges specifically designed for heavy, long VLD's- such as the .300 PRC- have extended neck lengths to maintain maximum case capacity, while minimizing the seating depth beyond the neck/shoulder.
 
Leave a minimum of .15” bearing surface in the neck and set the freebore so the bullet touches lands at that seating depth. You can seat the bullet progressively deeper while tuning the load. This should keep the boattail/bearing surface above the neck/ shoulder junction unless you get crazy with the jump. With the base junction well into the neck you’ll never need to worry with a donut forming as you will be seated above the donut. This is how I make my decision of freebore with chosen bullet. I believe the neck on the dasher is .245”. .245-.150=.100 to play with seating dept before you put any of the bearing surface into the case.
 
that's way too far out, most will put the fire ring (the transition where the boat tail meets the bearing surface) just above the bottom of the neck. I can say from personal experience and much testing that unless you have a donut issue with your brass, seating the bullet below that point does not harm accuracy, also a freebore that works with a wide variety of bullets is usually a better way to go (especially in these times)
Thanks Gary. I definitely hear you on sticking with a freebore that has some versatility. I would probably only stick with the heavier tangent ogive bullets and not mess around with lighter bullets or VLD's. With that said, what freebore would you recommend going with? I already have 1000 of the 109 hybrids so hopefully I that will last me long enough to get through the component shortage.
 
Leave a minimum of .15” bearing surface in the neck and set the freebore so the bullet touches lands at that seating depth. You can seat the bullet progressively deeper while tuning the load. This should keep the boattail/bearing surface above the neck/ shoulder junction unless you get crazy with the jump. With the base junction well into the neck you’ll never need to worry with a donut forming as you will be seated above the donut. This is how I make my decision of freebore with chosen bullet. I believe the neck on the dasher is .245”. .245-.150=.100 to play with seating dept before you put any of the bearing surface into the case.
This was along the lines of what I was thinking, but this was giving me a freebore measurement of about .220" and that seems to be quite a bit longer than what most are running.
 
Thanks Gary. I definitely hear you on sticking with a freebore that has some versatility. I would probably only stick with the heavier tangent ogive bullets and not mess around with lighter bullets or VLD's. With that said, what freebore would you recommend going with? I already have 1000 of the 109 hybrids so hopefully I that will last me long enough to get through the component shortage.
I've had good results with .150
 
This was along the lines of what I was thinking, but this was giving me a freebore measurement of about .220" and that seems to be quite a bit longer than what most are running.
I’m not choosing versatility I’m picking a bullet to chamber for. This has bit me in the rear before when my chosen bullet went out of production. I usually shoot a heavy for caliber bullet so I will just need to deal with a lot of jump if I switch to a shorter bullet. It works for me. Shorter freebores commonly used pushes heavies deep into cases. Robs powder capacity and is less ideal than a longer jump IMO. Life is full of compromises. The trick is finding the compromise that fits you the best.
 
Shorter freebores commonly used pushes heavies deep into cases. Robs powder capacity and is less ideal than a longer jump IMO. Life is full of compromises. The trick is finding the compromise that fits you the best.
This is my concern. I did a lot of reading before I started this thread and it seems like a lot of people were/are suggesting .104" FB is good for the 105/109 hybrids in a Dasher and I thought that was crazy because that would push the boat tail past the shoulder and into the case body and just seems like a waste.
 
I agree with tobnpr. I shoot a Dasher in PRS matches and am on my third barrel. My throat erosion has been 0.003"+ per hundred rounds. My reamer has a 0.160" freebore. I don't bother chasing the lands though. My best load is 115 DTACs with H4895 jumped 0.090" to start. That load just shoots bug holes regardless of what the throat is doing. My last barrel was jumping close to 0.200" once it gave up the ghost.
 
This is my concern. I did a lot of reading before I started this thread and it seems like a lot of people were/are suggesting .104" FB is good for the 105/109 hybrids in a Dasher and I thought that was crazy because that would push the boat tail past the shoulder and into the case body and just seems like a waste.
The 109 Berger has a lot of bearing surface, .105" FB is too short. .150" will still work fine for that bullet along with the 105, 107, 108 range bullets. If your going to stay with 109 even .175" wouldn't be too long.

The 109 has been shooting well for me, an excellent bullet!
 
swd is correct. .105 freebore is way too short As Jackie mentioned the BRA is a good choice. The Dasher has a very short neck and it is critical to get the freebore right since you have no room to play. The BRA will give you a longer neck and you are not losing anything over a Dasher. You do not want the bullet too far in the neck because you will have to deal with donuts later(a restriction in the brass at the neck shoulder junction). That Peterson brass is thicker than Lapua brass so be careful using somebody else's load data.
 
The 109 Berger has a lot of bearing surface, .105" FB is too short. .150" will still work fine for that bullet along with the 105, 107, 108 range bullets. If your going to stay with 109 even .175" wouldn't be too long.

The 109 has been shooting well for me, an excellent bullet!
swd, are you shooting a .175" freebore with your 109s?
 

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