• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Need Reloading Help / Advice / information on overall size of .223 /.556 .

Now I'm questing everything. So back to the drawing board. Per the Dillon instructions: Sizing Die installed to shell plate and then backed out 2 turns.

My suggestion is to measure case base to datum (shoulder) and use that as a sizing guide. For a semi-auto, you'll want 3-4 (maybe as much as 5) thousandths of shoulder "bump". Maybe a tad less on the first firing of brass. Once you figure out die setting to get that bump, the body sizing should be in-line with where you need to be.

For seating/crimp, make sure you're bottoming the seater die body on the case mouth (start with the die body fairly high, and adjust the plug to get your COAL.) Once that's set, pull the seater plug up, and screw the body down making sure you don't feel resistance [assuming you need no crimp. If you do, go in small steps while looking closely at the case mouth to get what crimp you want; and inspect the shoulder against a sized, non-crimped case.] Then readjust the seater plug.
 
Got the Rifle back today from Ruger. Had a BUR in the chamber. They honed the chamber and tested fired the rifle. All under warranty. Have checked a number of my reloads in the chamber and ALL OK. Going to the range to finish sighting in the scope this week.
Thank everyone for your suggestions.
KenK
 
Got the Rifle back today from Ruger. Had a BUR in the chamber. They honed the chamber and tested fired the rifle. All under warranty. Have checked a number of my reloads in the chamber and ALL OK. Going to the range to finish sighting in the scope this week.
Thank everyone for your suggestions.
KenK
What a relief that it was the rifle.
 
All my AR brass goes through a Lyman ammo checker after sizing and seating. Die adjusted so brass drop fits to the low step, minimum most is 1/2 thou below. My ammo always loads/extracts(live or fired) even when temps are ridiculously below zero. No forward assist ever needed.
 
One thing every 556 reloader should do as an eye opening experiment.

Prep your brass as you always do, but don't prime or load powder. Seat a bullet at your desired OAL for a dummy round and do not crimp. Now use all your muscles to push that bullet deeper than where you seated it. Push against a workbench, brick wall, what ever is handy. Based on what you observe you can determine if you need to crimp or not.

My experience was that with a lee FL sizing die, I couldn't even get the bullet to seat any deeper. With my hornady FL die, I could get it to move but only with extreme effort. And I decided for my purposes it was an amount of neck tension that I felt did not warrant crimping.
Can you get a kinetic bullet puller to unseat your bullet when your cases are sized with said die?

If so, a crimp is a good idea not for bullets going deeper into the case, but for unseating when the bolt slams home. Depending on how much interference there is with your bullet, it may or may not be necessary.

Done properly, crimping does not hurt accuracy/precision.
 
Got the Rifle back today from Ruger. Had a BUR in the chamber. They honed the chamber and tested fired the rifle. All under warranty. Have checked a number of my reloads in the chamber and ALL OK. Going to the range to finish sighting in the scope this week.
Thank everyone for your suggestions.
KenK
As I suspected. The chamber not the reloads was the issue.
 
Can you get a kinetic bullet puller to unseat your bullet when your cases are sized with said die?

If so, a crimp is a good idea not for bullets going deeper into the case, but for unseating when the bolt slams home. Depending on how much interference there is with your bullet, it may or may not be necessary.

Done properly, crimping does not hurt accuracy/precision.
That's a good question. I don't use the kinetic puller, but the next time I'm at the range I'll measure a couple cases from a mag after they are chambered and see if there are any differences in oal
 
Can you get a kinetic bullet puller to unseat your bullet when your cases are sized with said die?

If so, a crimp is a good idea not for bullets going deeper into the case, but for unseating when the bolt slams home. Depending on how much interference there is with your bullet, it may or may not be necessary.

Done properly, crimping does not hurt accuracy/precision.
Sorry for the delay in replying: Yes I have a Kinetic puller. If takes one and a half (1 1/2) strikes - two (2) strikes to remove the bullet. Makes the wife Jump :). I have a Very Light crimp (about 1/8th of a turn on the crimping die), just enough to feel some resistants on the very last bit of the stroke. I have checked as best I can with the calibrators against Factory rounds and mine. I do understand about HIGH pressure due to heavy crimping. Haven't seen any signs of it on my brass or durning resizing.

Again Thanks all for your suggestions.
 
Everything mentioned is assuming the ruger chamber was in spec. Seems odd all these cases Measures out with SAAMI and cleared a case guage as well. Yet you then have it stared that cases would not fully seat into the FL die? For a case head to be that expanded (range pu) I have trouble seeing it coukd be in SAAMI spec.

My guess is a few of those range pickups did not go fully into the die but instead the D550 plate flexed and somehow it got missed with the case guage unless the gauge is overly generous. The other option is the ruger chamber is tighter than spec. How else could you load those cases on your Dillon yet now upon rechecked and trying to size them again they will not even force into the die? Maybe I am not mis interpreting what was stated here:

I have checked EVERY hand-load round for case specs, overall length, and bullet diameter with caliper and case gauge. I did find a few that the head size was at the 0.376” and tried to resize them. They didn’t want to resize in the Dillon die (tended to stick and didn’t want to have one stuck in my die so discarded them)
So these were already handloaded so loaded rounds. Yet upon pulling them apart and trying to resize in the Dillon die they would not go in under reasonable handle force? So then how did they get loaded and go thru the die in the first place? My guess would be plate flex or something was missed. That would also mean only a partially sized case neck as well and possibly no shoulder bump so a lengthened case. Just speculating more than anything your process so you can address it going forward. First is any range pu needs to be kept separate or better yet left where you found it on the range. That $0.40 cost you a day at the range, the cost of the components. The time rechecking everything, the gunsmith fees, the shipping to ruger and weeks without your gun. That was possibly a very expensive savings LOL. It's all a learning experience.

No SB die is going to fix this kind of issue with pu range brass or any brass where the case head is blown out so far it would take tremendous force to get it into the sizing die. It can though split/crack dies or in a progressive press bend/warp parts. The SB die does can of course help if it's a progressive expansion and used in first few firings or from the get go. This assumes you not shooting over pressure loads and blowing out the case heads.

A case not having its shoulder pushed back far enough (no head clearance) alone also would not cause this issue. If that was happening the case would not allow the bolt to lock but it would still extract as its a length not a diameter issue. Given the case was visibly stuck sticking partially out of the chamber points to a diameter interference issue especially given it was tight enough a screw driver prying could not dislodge it. Wrong way to dislodge case BTW.

The OP should have mentioned the range pu brass. Regardless a case that passes a case guage test but then jams chambering with a ¼ left sticking out........some dimension is either off spec in the chamber (least likely) and or case guage (almost as unlikely) or not every case was actually properly checked on the case guage and not properly sized (most likely especially if my speculations above end up being correct)

While I agree perfectly in spec, good quality, sub moa ammo can be produced on a Dillon 550, BTDT many times. It is also true as was stated that there is alot more going on at once with 5 stations vs a simple single stage press. It's much easier to catch things. Take feel/force on the press handle cycling. On a single stage you know exactly where a change is coming from. That one specific case you are sizing or bullet seating etc. On a progressive is it the sizing? The primer decapping? Bullet seating any combination of them? i What? It's all happening on that one stroke. Not to mention your attention which is usually on the bullet seater if you are hand positioning the bullet

To remove a jammed loaded round. Remove the bolt/bcg. With barrel (BOTH ENDS) pointing in safe directions and be standing well off to the side. Place a wood dowel rod down the bore from the muzzle. Then starting with very light taps progressively with more force with a mallet. The better way if you have time and a deep freeze is pull the upper and put it in the deep freeze for a few hours then do the same dowel rod procedure. Brass contracts/expands more than steel with temp change. With a standard Dillon die and add in crimping it's very likely even a hard whack would not set back the bullet at all. The danger is the bullet and case acting as a fire piston creating compression thus heat igniting the powder. A bit of common sense goes a long way here.
 
Thanks TimW; I agree with everything you have said. Now only using NEW Factory Brass and will only reload that brass once fired. The "Stuck: rounds were deformed when they were removed so I couldn't get any measurements. 100+ rd. (New Brass) fired with NO problems.
What I found surprising was that the Dillon Head Space / Case Gauge only checks the length of the Brass and is an "indicator" of Primer seating.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
165,578
Messages
2,199,224
Members
79,004
Latest member
4590 Shooter
Back
Top