need load data for 44
- Thread starter cocopuff
- Start date
joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
Just use the loads for the heavier cast bullet. Been a while, but my book had a few “cast bullet” pages. If your’s doesn’t have them, let me know and I’ll dig it out for you.
Jacketed bullets would be better for hunting, tho. Unless you’re hunting snakes, armadillos and squirrels.
Jacketed bullets would be better for hunting, tho. Unless you’re hunting snakes, armadillos and squirrels.
watercam
Silver $$ Contributor
Go to www.hodgdonreloading. com and use data for 240gr. cast bullets if there are none for 220. If your bullets are soft you will be limited to 1000 fps or slower due to leading.
JSH
Gold $$ Contributor
I won’t make any comments, because I know better. Should stir a few though,lol.
wboggs
Gold $$ Contributor
Disagree with the jacketed bullets comment.
The cast are more versatile. You can get hard or softer bullets and load for your intended use. The cutting edge on semi-wadcutters will track straight and make a large wound channel. I have used 2400 powder for years with good results.
The cast are more versatile. You can get hard or softer bullets and load for your intended use. The cutting edge on semi-wadcutters will track straight and make a large wound channel. I have used 2400 powder for years with good results.
pirate ammo
Guaranteed to take the wind out of their sails
Lee and Lyman has load data for 210gr. to 240gr.
SSL
Gold $$ Contributor
Hodgdon loading page shows 220-grain loads. I haven't used jacketed bullets in probably 40 years in my various revolvers ranging from .357 through .45 Colt. My preferred weight for .44 and .45 calibers is 250-grains or higher. Cast bullets are easier on barrels and, if properly designed, are more reliable game-getters than many jacketed bullets. No bullet (even cast) at normal handgun velocities can be expected to expand reliably at hunting distances EVERY TIME. Many won't expand at point-blank range. Properly designed cast bullets (SWC, LNFP and etc.) don't depend on expansion and instead cut close to full sized holes and generally make a straight path in game. Cast bullets, even from dedicated casting companies, can be had in various hardness ratings, weights and sizes to best match your particular bores.
Even better, get a set of NOE bullet moulds and cast your own. They offer a variety of weights and diameters that will keep you happy!
Even better, get a set of NOE bullet moulds and cast your own. They offer a variety of weights and diameters that will keep you happy!
JSH
Gold $$ Contributor
I was one of many that was fed a lot of bull on CB’s for years.
They lead bores and are only good for casual shooting, then cleaning the mess up after any shooting is a chore in itself.
I have learned a lot running CB’s and put a huge majority of what I was told as a young man to bed, so to speak.
Swore I would never cast for anything smaller than a 30. Now I cast or have cast for .22-.515.
It takes some time and effort on the shooters part to get an understanding of using cast. Like most things we do, the more we tinker the easier it gets. But, it will also create new questions.
I get a huge charge of happiness when I play with the 22 hornet and little clover leaf groups at .22RF speed.
They lead bores and are only good for casual shooting, then cleaning the mess up after any shooting is a chore in itself.
I have learned a lot running CB’s and put a huge majority of what I was told as a young man to bed, so to speak.
Swore I would never cast for anything smaller than a 30. Now I cast or have cast for .22-.515.
It takes some time and effort on the shooters part to get an understanding of using cast. Like most things we do, the more we tinker the easier it gets. But, it will also create new questions.
I get a huge charge of happiness when I play with the 22 hornet and little clover leaf groups at .22RF speed.
SSL
Gold $$ Contributor
The real tricks to successful use of cast bullets are proper design, hardness, diameter and lube. For example, I have a Ruger .44 Mag that leaded terribly (as in not seeing any rifling) within a dozen rounds of various cast bullets. Since I didn't have this problem with other Rugers and my S&W 629, I was determined to fix this. After lapping the bore and etc., I was at my wits end and finally (!) cast my chamber throats and bore. While the chambers measured .430", the bore cast as .432". Obviously this was a poor match. I obtained a reamer from Manson to open the chambers to .432" and obtained a 250-grain mould from NOE that dropped bullets at 260 grains and .4325" with my lead mix. Bullets were sharp edged and clean right from the mould so I didn't bother with sizing to test. I rolled the bullets in liquid alox type lube, loaded them up to close to 1,400 fps and fired six rounds. Hmmm, no lead. 50 rounds later there were only slight traces of leading that brushed out with one pass of a brush. Accuracy was very good and I was happy.
Bullet design is very important in that beveled-base bullets nearly always lead far worse than plain-base bullets. Powder flames seem to melt those bases and cut up the sides to promote leading. They may serve well with low-pressure loads, but are sure to cause problems as the load increases.
Hardness can be a moving target. Too soft and it will obviously lead. Alloy that is too hard to obturate will also lead...and sometimes very badly.
Diameter has been discussed thoroughly for years. Cast bullets should at least match the bore with .001-.002" larger often better.
Lubes found on nearly every commercially cast bullet is very hard. This is for the convenience of shipping without having the lube rubbed off. Hard lubes do little to actually lube the bore. Softer lubes usually do a much better job of coating and lubing the bores, which assists in reducing leading.
Add powders to the list. Some powders may not be compatible with cast bullets. In the case of 2400 (one of the most versatile powders in the magnum range) NEVER use magnum primers. This is even cautioned by the manufacturer. It seems, though I can't prove this, that the flame of the magnum primer is too hot and actually etches the bullet base as the powder is igniting. This deformation is sufficient to initiate leading.
Finally, if you shoot jacketed bullets, be sure to clean the bores to bare metal before switching to lead. Lead seems to have an affinity for copper and will readily cling to any traces left in a barrel. That's why I sort of scratch my head when I hear of people firing a few jacketed rounds to clean out lead. I may be wrong, but this would seem to "iron" traces of lead into the grooves and actually promote future fouling.
Bullet design is very important in that beveled-base bullets nearly always lead far worse than plain-base bullets. Powder flames seem to melt those bases and cut up the sides to promote leading. They may serve well with low-pressure loads, but are sure to cause problems as the load increases.
Hardness can be a moving target. Too soft and it will obviously lead. Alloy that is too hard to obturate will also lead...and sometimes very badly.
Diameter has been discussed thoroughly for years. Cast bullets should at least match the bore with .001-.002" larger often better.
Lubes found on nearly every commercially cast bullet is very hard. This is for the convenience of shipping without having the lube rubbed off. Hard lubes do little to actually lube the bore. Softer lubes usually do a much better job of coating and lubing the bores, which assists in reducing leading.
Add powders to the list. Some powders may not be compatible with cast bullets. In the case of 2400 (one of the most versatile powders in the magnum range) NEVER use magnum primers. This is even cautioned by the manufacturer. It seems, though I can't prove this, that the flame of the magnum primer is too hot and actually etches the bullet base as the powder is igniting. This deformation is sufficient to initiate leading.
Finally, if you shoot jacketed bullets, be sure to clean the bores to bare metal before switching to lead. Lead seems to have an affinity for copper and will readily cling to any traces left in a barrel. That's why I sort of scratch my head when I hear of people firing a few jacketed rounds to clean out lead. I may be wrong, but this would seem to "iron" traces of lead into the grooves and actually promote future fouling.
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joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
Thanks for that insight. I have a 629 with an 8 3/8” barrel and a Ruger semi auto carbine in 44 mag. I just shot jacketed in the carbine. I shot a ton of cast bullets in the pistol, but most of those were 44 special loads for target shooting. I used commercially produced cast bullets and got a lot of leading in the barrel. I used a “cleaner” with the brass screens over a plug, that you pull thru the bore.
This was 20-25 years ago. No internet. Just the “books” for info. Seems I’ll have to re- educate myself.
This was 20-25 years ago. No internet. Just the “books” for info. Seems I’ll have to re- educate myself.
WHAT weapon ?? Ruger , S&W, DW ??
WHAT are the Dia. of the bullets you bought ?
Measure your cylinder throats, your cast bullets Dia. should be from.001 to .002 over your cylinder throats. If your bullets are under the throat Dia. put them aside for plinking with 8 to 9 Gn of Unique. For hunting, see if you can find some Speer 225 or 240 soft point.
OR buy some cast bullets that meet the needs of your pistol , several on line cast bullet venders offer a range of sizes.
Steve Donlon
Gold $$ Contributor
My Speer book says 225gr cast Linotype in 44 mag is for a 7 1/2" barrel pistol 2400 powder is from 19grs @ 1401fps to 21 grs @ 1482fps Or 110 -296 powder 22 grs.@1399fps or 24grs @ 1471fps.. AA#9 is 17grs. is 1305fps and 19grsis 1430fps. If it's a rifle with 20" barrel. Lyman has some cast #2 Alloy in 210 gr loads with 2400 starting at 19.8grs @ 1550fps and 22grs at 1705fps. 296 is best, also what I use, with 25.9grs is 1887fps and 27grs is 1933 fps. These bullets are made from #2 Alloy. With this data for a 210gr. bullet, you would only have to back off a little to be safe, but start at the lowest and work up. Also depends on the alloy or pure lead you are using for that bullet. Could not find 220 gr. but between data for 210 and 225 and if it's a pistol or rifle this should help. I'd go with 296 or 2400 depends on which shoots best.
joshb
Gold $$ Contributor
Dangdest thing! This afternoon, I was “packing up ammo” ! I’m moving to Texas and I’m taking my 44’s! I thought I had a few rounds. Over the years, I’d find some empties, load them up and put them in the drawer. Well, I found 1800 loaded rounds in the drawer! Cast lite loads and jacketed full loads. I thinks I got carried away! I hope they’re good on hogs.
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