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Need help identifying an old Husqvarna 6.5x55

wkndwarrior

Silver $$ Contributor
I bought this custom HVA rifle off of another forum a couple of years ago and have only been to the range with it once. While at the range I found two issues -

1. The front scope base was loose.
2. When sighting in, I couldn't get the windage adjustment correct. With a bench rest scope, it was about 12 inches off at maximum adjustment.

It turns out that one of the screws was stripped, I should have checked them before mounting the scope. I had my gunsmith tap it to a larger size. I thought maybe this would realign the base but no luck.

I tried mounting a different scope, also no luck. It's a really nice custom build and the barrel is free floated back to the action bedding but I can't get the action out of the stock - not completely sure that it's not bedded in there other than the fact that it is a very clean and professional job. It has a really nice trigger pull too.

So I'm trying to identify what model it is in hopes that I can find a compatible scope base with windage adjustments. I was going to try some burris signature rings but I don't think that it will give me enough windage and I'm not sure if they'll be high enough to clear the bolt. I found an old scope base chart, but none of the weaver bases are configured the same as the ones that I had removed, and I can't seem to find base dimensions on the google. The configuration is Weaver 45 installed on the rear, 55 installed on the front, rear holes approx .54" center to center and front holes approx .5" center to center. There's about 4" between the front-rear hole and the rear-front hole, center to center.

I believe it was 1951 manufacture based on the serial number and was thinking that it's an M96 military based on pictures I found on google, but the dimensions don't add up.

Any help identifying the action, and if someone is knowledgeable - the recommended scope base???

PXL_20250209_213946689~2.jpgPXL_20250209_222915758.jpgPXL_20250209_222936789.jpgPXL_20250209_223018263.jpg

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I would try a set of Burris signature rings, the inserts should allow you to align the bore and scope using almost none of the internal scope adjustments. Will require some ammo.

My reservation is that Burris lists the maximum correction at 10" at 100 yards and I was definitely off by more than that.

The only other adjustable ring I could find was weaver grand slam windage adjustable rings and they don't look as sturdy as a proper base.
 
My reservation is that Burris lists the maximum correction at 10" at 100 yards and I was definitely off by more than that.

The only other adjustable ring I could find was weaver grand slam windage adjustable rings and they don't look as sturdy as a proper base.
With Burris 1 inch rings you can get 40 moa Max. windage adjustment or most anything up to that .
Been using them since they came out.
 
With Burris 1 inch rings you can get 40 moa Max. windage adjustment or most anything up to that .
Been using them since they came out.

Ok, now I think I was looking at the .1 rings for 30mm. I do see some info on how to get a lot more adjustment with the 1" kit. I guess I'll bite the bullet on these and hopefully the high rings clear my bolt. Thanks for helping to clear this up.
 
Weekend Warrior, as was common, someone ground the stripper clip ears off the rear action ring where your scope base will go. Your front ring looks original. What is most important is that the rear ring surface that was ground is parallel to the front. If it’s not parallel to the front, you have a real challenge. Note that I mean parallel, not at the same height.
You can try to use machinist steel rulers to get an idea. If they are parallel. You should be able to make it work using available Weaver bases.
 
^^^Yup! Looks like an old small ring to me. 96 Mauser with a bolt bent/worked and Sporterized. The stepped barrel looks original too, tho worked over. How long is it. Could be an old carbine action but the barrel looks too long to be an original carbine barrel.
Burris Extreme rings with inserts when you get a pic rail for it.
Here’s a pic of a later Husquavarna for the civilian market.
IMG_1392.png

Here’s a better close up. Notice the differences in the bolt and barrel.
IMG_1393.png
 
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definitely an 1896 receiver. the 1912 date on receiver tells that. DT, drill and tap. It already has been modified. new drilled and tapped holes, if they are 100% true would be a good trade IMO to get the rifle shooting. as said on here, find a gunsmith that can 100% fix the issue, may have to re drill receiver for straight. you can probably find scope bases to cover all the holes on receiver.
 
Ok, it's starting to make sense with the information that you guys are providing. I had seen some pictures of 96 mausers that had the lip still on and a 3 hole/ one piece base. I guess the rear holes were just tapped to fit the base that worked.

The barrel is 22 inches from the action to the muzzle.

With the bases installed and both scopes that I tried, no issues with elevation. To my eye, it appears that the bases are level. It is the windage that is off by 12 inches or so at 100 yards. It could be +/-, honestly I think I was aiming at the left side of the target frame and impacts were on the right most target. This was last year and I was probably too frustrated to write it down. I almost always bore sight before I go to the range where I would have identified the issue, so I was having an off day.

I'm guessing by DT, you mean drill and tap. I'll probably just try to work with what I have right now. The real challenge is that only my extra high rings would clear the bolt, but also I only have one modern scope long enough to fit the ring spacing. My gunsmith is ok but I don't think I'd have him do this type of work, I am a ways from Hart but live near Harrisburg so I'm sure there's someone else around if needed.

Thank you all for the information, I'll dig into info on the 96 small ring mauser. I'm still a little thrown off by the 1912 on the receiver though, just based on the serial number in the 649xxx range.
 
I am not a mauser expert but I think the rifle was 'sporterized'. Bolt has been blued. that barrel looks original and probably has been cut back. later swedish mausers used some early receivers with a shorter barrel (1938 model).

don't get discouraged. the swedish mausers were all based on the 1896 model small ring mauser. Sweden modified the design to a shorter barrel , that model was called 1938 model. it used same receiver as 1896 mauser. and some of them were the original 1896 mausers. the date on receiver is the date the receiver was built. it is still an 1896 model.
 
I am not a mauser expert but I think the rifle was 'sporterized'. Bolt has been blued. that barrel looks original and probably has been cut back. later swedish mausers used some early receivers with a shorter barrel (1938 model).

don't get discouraged. the swedish mausers were all based on the 1896 model small ring mauser. Sweden modified the design to a shorter barrel , that model was called 1938 model. it used same receiver as 1896 mauser. and some of them were the original 1896 mausers. the date on receiver is the date the receiver was built. it is still an 1896 model.

I was definitely feeling pretty discouraged trying to figure this scope issue out before posting. I have another old mauser that has a similar issue and it seems that only the old long body scopes that I have like Redfields will fit the long action and zero, but I have really become accustomed to modern illuminated optics.

I appreciate all of the information from everyone, now that I have more information on the rifle I will dig into it some more. I did see that Frank De Haas wrote about these in his Bolt Action Rifles book too.
 
Here’s pics of my M38 with see thru rings. You can try this pic rail but it’s a crap shoot. The holes may not line up. The rails give more height that you’re needing to get above the bolt. I got it with the see thru rings. Notice I reversed the front ring to solve the length problem.
IMG_1399.jpegIMG_1398.jpegIMG_1401.png
 
Here’s pics of my M38 with see thru rings. You can try this pic rail but it’s a crap shoot. The holes may not line up. The rails give more height that you’re needing to get above the bolt. I got it with the see thru rings. Notice I reversed the front ring to solve the length problem.
EGW lists the spacing on their website and it doesn't look like it'll work. I definitely considered see thru rings, and had actually ordered these offset weaver rings but with the windage issue it just didn't work. They were surprisingly nice rings though and worked for scope that I needed to adjust for eye relief. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WX7TI1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I have an 1896 (built in 1899) that I was unable to get on paper at 100 yards. (Off by ~20" with the front sight drifted to fully compensate). I held a straightedge along the barrel and discovered that the barrel was actually bent. Figuring that there was little to lose, I straightened in a hydraulic press to straight by eyeball. I was able to bring it in with no impact to accuracy.
 
My M38 Husky uses an old Redfield windage adjustable one piece base with Burris rings. I had to add a piece of .015 brass shim under the rear to get average hand loads to hit at normal distances. There has to be plenty of these bases around. Put out a wanted post.

I used a thin mirror and flashlight and saw letters MK stamped under the bridge.

These can still be found on ebay and are compatible with twist in rings from Leupold, Redfield and Burris.

 

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