Need feedback regarding annealing - pic

[AKShooter]

Hello

I'm new to annealing. Finally have my annealer dialed in (homemade) anyway in the pic the yellow is a 650 the red line is the 450. Basically I set up to bubble, burn the 650 down the neck to the shoulder.

On the right track? Just first time I've done this. Want a second opinion before I run a bunch. Thinking safety too

Thanks

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c79/youngtrout/20140222_163638_zpst7mkz1us.jpg

 

[Juma]

We just use eyeometry.Whack it in your Dewalt and count 5 from your Benzomatic torch for 223. It will run to below shoulder.

 

[BowGuy]

I find putting a THIN swipe inside the neck and adjusting your time so it changes color works best. Making sure the flame is not at the neck, rather pointed to the shoulder. I never thought having the flame directly on the templic would give correct results.

 

[FeMan]

It doesn't appear that you got it too hot. Remember that annealing is a function of time and temperature. 650 degrees takes 15 minutes or so to fully anneal brass but at 750 degrees it happens in seconds. I put tempilaq inside the case necks, use a hot flame and shoot for a peak temp of something above 700 degrees but not above 750.

 

[Webster]

Good insight. If the flame is on the Tempilaq, the Tempilaq is seeing the torches 1800F flame. The Tempilaq doesn't wait for the metal to reach 650F. It should be melted by the flame temp before the metal reaches 650F. Sounds like inside the neck and on the shoulder below the flame contact would give a better indication.

 

[Shynloco]

AK,
For the longest time I was very concerned about my abilities to anneal. I felt like it was kind of an inexact effort and that applying Templique would help...NOT! So what I figured out after testing and cooking the snot out of some of my brass, was that in a diminished overhead light setting (one of my bathrooms has those low powered flourescent bulbs instead of the bright light business) that once I introduced the casing into the hot flame, that in a matter of 3 - 4 seconds, I could see a haze sort of look, start at the top of the neck and move rather quickly down to the base of the casing. It took me a while to note that with say a .223 casing, that hazy movement would only take 3 seconds while with a .308 it would take 4 - 5 seconds, probably because of more mass for the heat to cover. Anyways, what I do now is look for that haze movement down the brass, add a second and dump my casing into the pan of water. Probably isn't the most accurate, but I actually got the time calculation off a video showing some automatic annealers doing their thing and I just counted the seconds while the casings where actually exposed to the flame. That was quicker than I ever expected, but seems to do the trick and I now anneal without worry if I'm going to cook my brass like burnt toast. Just something to consider trying. Works for me.

Alex

 

[Nomad47]

Shynloco, why are you dumping the brass in water?

 

[Shynloco]

To cool it off quickly. That's what most people I know do.

 

[Hopkins]

I was a bit hesitant to anneal until I decided to get a hold of some trash brass I could destroy experimenting with. The first exercise was to learn how long it would take to over do it. Once you find that base line you work behind it until you perfect your feel for the process. A low light setting helps and a stationery torch and moving the case into and out of the flame simplifies it. If you set your drill to a specific rpm to turn the brass that will eliminate another small variable. The right length deep dish socket is a good tool. Experiment, it came quickly for me. Good luck.

 

[gilream]

Use 750 degree Tempilaq swabbed INSIDE the case mouth, With the benzOmatic propane torch running wide open and resting firmly in a cradle of some kind you will hold the tip of inner blue flame to just touch the neck/shoulder junction of the clean, shiny case. (Keep the lights dim so that you can make sure the flame is touching the right spot.)

With your smartphone or laptop go to metronome.com, select 60 beats per minute, turn up the volume and click start.

Prepare 4 or 5 cases as described above. With a sharpie I mark 4..5..6..7 on the bottom of the cases. Place the first case in the flame, listen to the metronome and count 4 seconds very carefully with the case spinning slowly in a socket on the end of your cordless drill. Leave case #2 in the flame for 5 seconds... and so on. Keep adding a second to the dwell time until you exhaust the cases that you've prepared. Cases of different sizes require differing dwell time in the flame to that first moment that the Tempilaq turns from blue to black. My 7 Mag cases take 7 seconds whereas my 22 PPC cases require only about 4 seconds.

Drop the cases into a metal pan quickly at the end of each torch period. The metal pan assures that nothing will melt and stick onto the hot case. (don't dump them onto a towel and there is no need for water)

After you let them cool and examine them you will see exactly the time required to reach the 750 degree mark. (The first case should still be blue.) As soon as you see all black...that's your correct timing in the flame. Make a note of it. After that you no longer need the tempilaq liquid...just a metronome. I would suggest if you have smallish cases start at 3 seconds in the flame and go up from there.